what cams are you using now? since you have upgraded valvetrain im assuming you arent using the stock b16 cams. all motor cams usually make good power with FI setups on hondas.
Not another I want 400hp on stock internals
- Thread starter neoc03
- Start date
u can just run them, they might even make more power than gsr/itr cams. or you can sell them and get a set of oem gsr/itr cams. up to you really.
anytime you push the stock rods over 300hp your playing on the edge sometimes the rods will take it and sometimes they won't
about cam you dont wanna get type r cam because they overlap..By overlapping i mean they stay open to much so you will actually do less power..You want some GSR cams if your not upgrading cams right now..they are just the touch because when the intake is opening exahust is closed..all motor cam and turbo are 2 diffrent things....you also wanna bore out the b16 so you can have a perfect round cylinder wall..even though you cant see it with time it look like an egg shape....its not just slap on parts...but keep on doing your research...please dont be like these retards that through boost and go boost crazy...get all your requirment..also LSD big help....My boy signal on stock internal did 283whp at 11psi and alchol injection...Just get a good tune also.....need help just let us CC people know..we all help out each other..
my opinion... you're trying to go backwards.
You should build the motor to hold, ultimatly, in the long run, what you would like to see.
Also, piece together the turbo kit thats going to produce that power, and de-tune it to what you want for the time being.
You'll save money in the long run.
If its not a problem to do built internals, then why are you asking this question man? lol seriously, just build it and dont worry about it.
You need a hell of alot more then a big intercooler, and a big turbo to make 400whp. Sounds like you have ALOT of researching to do. But hopefully this helps get your ideas going.
A bit of info:
Stock cams, are better for boost, dont waste your money on 'turbo cams', you want the valves to open/close as fast as possible to build more pressure, faster.
Ideally (even though EVERYONE will flame on me for ths, but its fact, truth, do research), the higher compression, the better. Compression pushes more air/pressure through the motor, thus spooling faster. Diesels are 13+ compression. Yes, its a diesel, sure, but the reason why everyone says low compression is because its easier to tune. You'll produce FAR better numbers on higher compression with turbo, then you would on the same motor, same setup, with low compression. Low compression is what partially causes turbo lag, but is ultimately safer.
Tuning is a MUST, period. Do not rev far into the boost range without a tune, you'll probably do damage to the motor. If you have to wait a few weeks to get tuned, drive a minimal amount, and remember, its better to run a little rich, over running lean.
Let the flamming begin.
You should build the motor to hold, ultimatly, in the long run, what you would like to see.
Also, piece together the turbo kit thats going to produce that power, and de-tune it to what you want for the time being.
You'll save money in the long run.
If its not a problem to do built internals, then why are you asking this question man? lol seriously, just build it and dont worry about it.
You need a hell of alot more then a big intercooler, and a big turbo to make 400whp. Sounds like you have ALOT of researching to do. But hopefully this helps get your ideas going.
A bit of info:
Stock cams, are better for boost, dont waste your money on 'turbo cams', you want the valves to open/close as fast as possible to build more pressure, faster.
Ideally (even though EVERYONE will flame on me for ths, but its fact, truth, do research), the higher compression, the better. Compression pushes more air/pressure through the motor, thus spooling faster. Diesels are 13+ compression. Yes, its a diesel, sure, but the reason why everyone says low compression is because its easier to tune. You'll produce FAR better numbers on higher compression with turbo, then you would on the same motor, same setup, with low compression. Low compression is what partially causes turbo lag, but is ultimately safer.
Tuning is a MUST, period. Do not rev far into the boost range without a tune, you'll probably do damage to the motor. If you have to wait a few weeks to get tuned, drive a minimal amount, and remember, its better to run a little rich, over running lean.
Let the flamming begin.
itr cams are great with boost, as proven time and time again in real work turbo situations.
ive seen back to back dyno results of low c/r vs high cr with no other differences and there was no difference in spool time. there is not more air mass going through the motor, it just has the capacity to make more tq per air mass. low end tq might be higher depending, but it doesnt spool the turbo faster. you cant compare a deisel motor to a gasoline motor when it comes to spool time thats a whole different animal.
so you are saying it is "ideal" for a turbo motor to have high compression? ie 11:1. so an ITR motor would be the ideal motor to turbocharge? power isnt everything. the loss of 10whp vs the safety of a lower c/r motor. ill take the safety any day of the week. not to mention 1 more psi will more than make up for the loss in c/r
ive seen back to back dyno results of low c/r vs high cr with no other differences and there was no difference in spool time. there is not more air mass going through the motor, it just has the capacity to make more tq per air mass. low end tq might be higher depending, but it doesnt spool the turbo faster. you cant compare a deisel motor to a gasoline motor when it comes to spool time thats a whole different animal.
so you are saying it is "ideal" for a turbo motor to have high compression? ie 11:1. so an ITR motor would be the ideal motor to turbocharge? power isnt everything. the loss of 10whp vs the safety of a lower c/r motor. ill take the safety any day of the week. not to mention 1 more psi will more than make up for the loss in c/r
I never said anything about ITR cams, if that was directed at me, i dunno wtf your talking about lolitr cams are great with boost, as proven time and time again in real work turbo situations.
ive seen back to back dyno results of low c/r vs high cr with no other differences and there was no difference in spool time. there is not more air mass going through the motor, it just has the capacity to make more tq per air mass. low end tq might be higher depending, but it doesnt spool the turbo faster. you cant compare a deisel motor to a gasoline motor when it comes to spool time thats a whole different animal.
so you are saying it is "ideal" for a turbo motor to have high compression? ie 11:1. so an ITR motor would be the ideal motor to turbocharge? power isnt everything. the loss of 10whp vs the safety of a lower c/r motor. ill take the safety any day of the week. not to mention 1 more psi will more than make up for the loss in c/r
If you can get a high compression motor tuned right, its better then low compression, i understand (and even STATED) why everyone goes low compression, and i will too when the time comes.
Tuning high compression is a hell of alot harder then lower compression, and ive seen higher compression motors spool faster on the same turbo then a lower compression motor. I would suppose it has to do with tuning, and other factors at this point.
Find a good tuner and you won't need to worry about that.I want to know that my setup is going to last, and I'm not going to have to deal with it going kaboom after about 3k miles.
weve made 400+ on stock b16's, not suggested but its been done.
no the ITR cam comment wasnt towards you phntm it was for jaun. tuning is important on every motor low c/r or not. higher c/r motors generate more heat in the cylinders. heat means it bring is closer to the threshold for knocking. with perfect tuning you will still reach that limit sooner with a higher c/r motor. this is where the octane of the fuel comes to play. higher octane fuel cools the air during compression. you can run a higher octane fuel to increase c/r or boost without knocking. sometimes higher octane fuels are not an option though.
no the ITR cam comment wasnt towards you phntm it was for jaun. tuning is important on every motor low c/r or not. higher c/r motors generate more heat in the cylinders. heat means it bring is closer to the threshold for knocking. with perfect tuning you will still reach that limit sooner with a higher c/r motor. this is where the octane of the fuel comes to play. higher octane fuel cools the air during compression. you can run a higher octane fuel to increase c/r or boost without knocking. sometimes higher octane fuels are not an option though.