Audio System

[Kennykid2002]

So right now i have a 2003 coupe....
I just installed a new sony cdx-gt520 xplod deck into my system....

the sound is freaking awesome, but i want to crank it up some more, and i'm afraid to blow my factory speakers

i was wondering......if i should install a sub? or new speakers?
dont get me wrong, the factory speaker's bass isnt bad, its just, that im afraid to blow it, and i want to make it louder (but i also dont need so loud that i set off car alarms in the neighborhood)


speakers im looking at :
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=410&i=500SPS600C&tp=106

subs im looking at :
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?showAll=N&g=510&i=236JH4510X&tp=112&tab=features_and_specs

what im thinking :
speakers cost much less, but will only get front
subs are nice, but i also need an amp..... = costly

what do you guys think i should do?
subs? speakers?
and if subs, can someone refer me to a decent cheap amp?

 

[Solid_Snake]

Actually, 7th gen speakers are pretty decent compared to the paper ones that came stock in older civics. I'd recommend you to get a sub and just cut the bass going to the speakers (idk if that head unit has a High Pass Filter). Bass is what kills the factory speakers.

 

[ScratchNSniff]

Spend the extra money needed instead of cheaping out...it may not happen instantly, but you will be a lot happier with your decision...

 

[eskateboarding7]

Spend the extra money needed instead of cheaping out...it may not happen instantly, but you will be a lot happier with your decision...

 

[2000 EKCivicEX]

Spend the extra money needed instead of cheaping out...it may not happen instantly, but you will be a lot happier with your decision...

for sure

 

[Bheims]

imo I wouldn't go sony for anything car audio...but if it sounds good to you stick with it. I have Alpine Type-S's in front and their great but if your not going to match an amp with them you won't hear a big difference. The sound will be clearer but I'd say add a sub(s)...

 

[eskateboarding7]

imo I wouldn't go sony for anything car audio...but if it sounds good to you stick with it. I have Alpine Type-S's in front and their great but if your not going to match an amp with them you won't hear a big difference. The sound will be clearer but I'd say add a sub(s)...

I was going to say that, but everytime I say something of the sort I get a million people defending their stuff. Truth be told, it's going to be comparable to anything else if you're just throwing in a deck and some average speakers. You're not going to see a huge difference in sound quality unless in reality you're getting pretty extensive into your system. Truth be told, Sony makes great cameras and camcorders, but horrible car audio.

 

[Bheims]

^^ lol very true, most of the people I know that have gone sony (whether it be head unit, subs, amp) have switched eventually...scratchandsniff has it right

 

[Kennykid2002]

Well, actually sony, digitally wise, is not too shabby
so a head unit is okay for a sound system
(thats also because i did some heavy research before i bought it, not dissapointed at all by it)
but i know for sure i am not getting any sony speakers

so i guess everyone's leaning towards subs for the bass eh?
can anyone refer me to some decent subs and amp?
My budget range is only about 300~400 bucks on subs+ amp

another reason i wanted to just change speakers is because the stock tweeters are annoying, even if you turn it down on the EQ, it gets bothersome and eventually i have to turn my volume down

but what if i get 6x9's in the rear and those speakers in the front?
that would cost me the same abount as the sub, but i would save the trunk space

and another question, if i get subs, should i worry about changing my battery? i dont want to drain that either


Thanks guys for the quick response =]

 

[Bheims]

You wouldnt have to change your battery...thats for people putting out serious wattage. The 03 speakers really aren't that bad so I would go with the sub, you get an amp with some good 6X9s and 6.5s and you'll always want more bass (at least thats what I found). The speakers just tease you...

Wiring is going to be rather expensive (which sucks) and could take about 1/3 of your budget. I'd say go with a Rockford P2 (12") with a cheap, sealed box, and a Kenwood 1000W Mono Amp. Alot of options out there...

If the rumor is true and Circuit City goes outta business that could be a great time to find something for cheap...

 

[ScratchNSniff]

Right now I am in somewhat the same predicament as you are looking at...I on the other hand have a very nice sound system and am looking for something with a lot less bass that has a great match up with the speakers in the car...my audio guy actually sent me this message the other day and it is very revelent to what you are talking about...like I said, it is going to cost a bit of money to get things right...

You will save a lot more money down the road by buying a quality system as opposed to upgrading the one that you already have time and time again...

Hope this helps...

Scratch N Sniff,

If you want to maintain a tiny profile in the trunk, stick with tiny but potent amps. My favorite by far is the Alpine PDX series. You can go with either a capable 5 channel, or you can split it up and go with a 4ch/mono setup too.

For front stage, I'd recommend you try going active. You aren't a newbie, and I think you might really enjoy the added clarity, depth, and detail a true active system will provide. No passive crossovers means you need to amplify each speaker separately, of course.

Consider that if you go active, you'll need a capable processor that is up to the job. You can go with the RF 3sixty.2 like I have, or you can go with the Alpine PXE-H650, or you can even run a quality head unit that is built for this type of job, like the Pioneer 880 deck, for instance. If a crossover onboard a particular piece of equipment is capable of adjusting beyond 2kHz, then you can use it actively!

For sub use, wow the sky's the limit. If you have the dough and want something special, consider using the new JL Audio pancake sub. It doesn't extend as low as a W7 of course, but it only requres a few inches in depth and thus can fit in some awkward places easily. A super-nice sub, according to reviews, too.

Alternately, if you want to try your hand at what I consider to be the best brand for the buck today (in subs), go with Fi Car Audio SSD or Q line. A single 10" will rock your world, and with the SSD line, a normal 10" goes perfectly into a ~.5 cubic foot box at .707 Qtc (perfect ratio box size, "Golden".) The excursion, power handling, and overall feel of the Fi lineup should impress, and actually at low mid-bass frequencies they'll do better then a W7 could.



Essentially, if I were in absolute control of your audio package from the ground up, I'd go:

eDead or RAAMmat deadening 100% through the car. Alternately for lighter weight (at greater cost) go with Cascade Audio materials. Cover all deadened areas with Ensolite foam or similar.

Wire up using Knukonceptz Kolassus Fleks 4 gauge, Streetwires' specialized terminals, and Tsunami's new integrated ground/power fused distro box (all these I've found at huge discounts, so this is the cheapest/best combo I've found and it works beautifully!)

Do speaker wire to the doors in 4 conductor in-wall installation grade 16 gauge sheathed wire. 4 conductors to each door means woofer and tweeter get their signals in one wire run. High end brand completely unnecessary, just get OFC copper that bends easily and is durable.

Install Mach5 Audio 6" mid-woofers to the door with a strong baffle, probably made out of cutting board material. Trim door panel to fit after deadening.

Install LPG tweeter, or SEAS tweeter (depending on auditory taste), after testing for best angle, position, and acoustic image production.

Install a 4ch Alpine PDX 4.100, and PDX 1.600. Wire up using 4 gauge to the distro block mentioned above.

Build a false floor design with a stealth-install 10" sub in the trunk. Keep everything as low as possible, and as plain-jane (invisible) as possible. Use a single Fi Audio Q in 10", sealed at .707 Qtc.

Install RF 3sixty.2 OR Alpine processor, doesn't matter. Set crossover range on Mach5 6" drivers to about 60hz highpass/2.2kHz lowpass @ ~12 dB/oct. Set tweeter crossover at around 2.0-2.5kHz to taste. Set Fi sub to around 65Hz lowpass. EQ all drivers using test params.


With this type of invisible setup, you should be in audio heaven, IMO.


How do I know? Well, I've got a similar system already in the works for a family member and we're stoked about the results so far.

 

[Bheims]

^^ best advice I've seen on here.

Bump for a cc seller - 2 kickers+box $150

http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=152753

 

[Kennykid2002]

Well, i guess since everyone's leaning towards subs......
i'll go with subs

But maybe instead of those two jackhammers, i might just get 1 10" JL (to save room)
but i dont know which kind of amp would be good for it
a profile ap600?
the JL's RMS is 50~300

and also, are there any good guides out there for "DIY sub/amp installs"?
or would a professional install be better for the 2003?

thanks for all the help again guys

 

[R3dline]

if you are tryin to keep bass outa your door speakers and such you can always get some bass blockers, its like in line fuse lookin thing, i wired them in to hatchback a long time ago when i had it, and they work, if you just want music outa the speakers and bass from the subs, also good if you dont wanna pop your your factorys, -shrug just my 2 cents

 

[ScratchNSniff]

Install is pretty easy...you may want to look into doing a DIY trunk wheelwell fiberglass box...that is my next project...

 

[Kennykid2002]

Well, thanks for the help everyone....
but in the end, i decided that im not going to add anything

since the stock speakers are pretty decent themselves, i figure ill just replace them when and if they blow
the stock speakers are good enough, that people think i have a 10 inch in the back, then i tell them that i dont have anything

going to save my 400 bucks on a lip kit or seats or something more stylish =]

and besides, just about everyone i know who had subs either are selling them or dont want them anymore because they get annoying, and becomes obsolete later on (family and all)
since im not really that much of a "quality freak" ill just stick with stock till they blow

thanks for all the help guys