Question about draining clutch fluid?

[tandaman]

I'm looking to flush my clutch system and replace it with new fluid this weekend, and just have a few questions on how to do all of this. Ive been having a few clutch issues lately and have been trying to diagnose it, so im starting with draining the fluid. I was told from another member that from fluctuating temperatures in the climate around here condenstation can build up in the lines. Anyways, could someone guide me towards some instructions how to do this?

From what i know, i need to disconnect the line from the master cylinder (dont know where that is, have to find it!) and let it run into a pale and then just fill it back up again? sounds pretty simple, but anyones advice here can help. thanks guys!

-Tanner

 

[EK1.6LCIV]

no need for disconnecting items as it won't do the job properly

follow these steps

If your clutch pedal doesn't quite have the pressure it used to, or your clutch fluid just looks old and dirty, it may be time to bleed and/or replace the clutch fluid. Luckily this is probably the easiest fluid change you can do, you won't even need to lift the car for this job.

Items needed:

8mm open or box end wrench
Clear tube (1/4" ID)
One bottle DOT3/DOT4 brake fluid (doesn't have to be full)
A friend to press the clutch pedal for you

Locate the bleeder valve on the clutch slave cylinder.
Use your 8mm wrench to open the valve one full turn, don't remove it.

Stick your hose over the bleeder valve and have it drop off into a container.



Be sure to check the clutch fluid level before bleeding the system, you don't want to let it get below the MIN line.

Have your friend pump the clutch pedal to start removing the fluid. Don't be concerned if they tell you the pedal went down to floor and won't come back up on it's own, that's normal. They'll just have to wedge it back up with their foot.

NOTE: When bleeding the system, make sure the cap is ON or you will just be sucking in air

Refill the clutch fluid as necessary to keep it above the MIN line. Since the clutch fluid reservoir is very small you'll have to keep a close eye on it.

 

[zb12691]

woooooow. wow. wow. way easier than all of that. i work at honda and we charge people 125 bucks to do it this way

open resorvor cap
keep fluid level topped off
open bleeder on slave cylinder keeping fluid filled. dont let it run dry
let it run into a pan untill its clear like the new stuff
close bleeder. top off fluid
make sure u have a good feeling pedal

ive done this like five times on my civic because i would do it, it would be dirty, do it agan and again, now its been clear for like 6 months, good luck

 

[zb12691]

ha ha ha, and keep the cap offf. you cant keep it filled if its on

 

[EK1.6LCIV]

you want to leave the cap on during bleeding, wouldnt want any fluid to ruin paint work in the engine bay, lol

 

[Renzo21]

you want to leave the cap on during bleeding, wouldnt want any fluid to ruin paint work in the engine bay, lol

What are you talking about? You keep filling the resevoir as you bleed the system. It's not going to over fill when your taking fluid out...

 

[tandaman]

woooooow. wow. wow. way easier than all of that. i work at honda and we charge people 125 bucks to do it this way

open resorvor cap
keep fluid level topped off
open bleeder on slave cylinder keeping fluid filled. dont let it run dry
let it run into a pan untill its clear like the new stuff
close bleeder. top off fluid
make sure u have a good feeling pedal

ive done this like five times on my civic because i would do it, it would be dirty, do it agan and again, now its been clear for like 6 months, good luck

where is the slave cylinder?

 

[NFR_AP2]

its bolted to the front of the transmission

 

[EK1.6LCIV]

you kids dont want air to get into your clutch fluid when your bleeding it (which is why you fill it up first, put the cap on whilst your bleeding it then when you close the valve top it up again...)

 

[EK1.6LCIV]

where is the slave cylinder?

theres a rubber boot on the front of the transmission, on top of that is the slave and the valve (d series b series its all the same part, same slave...)

whilst your there I'd check inside the cabin under the dash for leaks on the master cylinder point (first point of failure common on all of the clutch lines (it's uncommon to get to high kms on the same clutch master cylinder)