Advice on my B16 turbo setup.

[TopGear_]

During your tune, your tuner can dyno and show you how much power the turbo has to dish out up to a certain RPM. Mostl likely that turbo is going to run out of steam at around 7k RPM or so... Your engine has alot more in it to rev higher, so imo, look for a slightly larger turbo and it'll suite you better.

*A matter of fact, I think CHAOS has a similar turbo to yours, you should PM him and see how long he holds boost up to "x" RPM.

well i think i've decided to look around for a bigger turbo. if it comes time to put everything on and i havent found a bigger one, ill just use the one I have

 

[TopGear_]

Something else has come up. I think my stock clutch is starting to go bad so i'll be replacing it soon. I have an ACT Stage 1 clutch with pressure plate that I can use, but it's used. I was thinking about using the used pressure plate and just buying a new ACT performance disc. what does everyone think?

 

[TiiM iiS l3eAsT]

go with a ebay stage 3 or 4 clutch (6 puck sprung disc).... i have one and it actually holds boost very nice :twsited: and is easy for DD

but make sure to break it in properly....going easy on it for around 500 miles....

t3/t4.. what size do you plan on running? a low A/F ? or smething thatll have more top end? I would suggest a .52 trim
spool pretty quick and itll make great topend power

huh...ive never heard of a .52 trim turbo lol... link to one ???

ive already talked to you topgear about your turbo situation...if you want more topend go with a .63 trim....

 

[TopGear_]

go with a ebay stage 3 or 4 clutch (6 puck sprung disc).... i have one and it actually holds boost very nice :twsited: and is easy for DD

but make sure to break it in properly....going easy on it for around 500 miles....



huh...ive never heard of a .52 trim turbo lol... link to one ???

ive already talked to you topgear about your turbo situation...if you want more topend go with a .63 trim....

Are you talking about any of those ebay brands? here's a few that I saw:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/F1-STAGE-3-CERAMIC-CLUTCH-SET-99-00-HONDA-CIVIC-SI-B16_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem5187fb8c05QQitemZ350173760517QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/XTD-STAGE-3-CLUTCH-99-00-CIVIC-Si-DEL-SOL-Si-B16_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a0Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem5189a83511QQitemZ350201853201QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Do you remember what brand you got? I just don't want to buy ebay s**t that will fall apart the first 6months it's on the car.



So if I stick with the turbo I have now (48 trim) I will make most of the power in the mid rpm range, and with something larger like a 63 trim I will make more power closer to redline?

or it just will not make the peak horsepower that a 63 trim would make? in other words, the 63 trim would pull harder and harder the closer to redline, but the 48 trim would fall back off right before redline? just trying to fully understand it all

thanks

 

[TiiM iiS l3eAsT]

Are you talking about any of those ebay brands? here's a few that I saw:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/F1-STAGE-3-CERAMIC-CLUTCH-SET-99-00-HONDA-CIVIC-SI-B16_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem5187fb8c05QQitemZ350173760517QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/XTD-STAGE-3-CLUTCH-99-00-CIVIC-Si-DEL-SOL-Si-B16_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a0Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem5189a83511QQitemZ350201853201QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Do you remember what brand you got? I just don't want to buy ebay s**t that will fall apart the first 6months it's on the car.



So if I stick with the turbo I have now (48 trim) I will make most of the power in the mid rpm range, and with something larger like a 63 trim I will make more power closer to redline?

or it just will not make the peak horsepower that a 63 trim would make? in other words, the 63 trim would pull harder and harder the closer to redline, but the 48 trim would fall back off right before redline? just trying to fully understand it all

thanks

actually this is the exact brand i bought....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/F1-STAGE-3-CERAMIC-CLUTCH-SET-99-00-HONDA-CIVIC-SI-B16_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem5187fb8c05QQitemZ350173760517QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

s**t grips very nice for 20psi....

ok...if you stick with the .48 trim....you'll have quicker spool time....but once you hit around 6k you wont feel anymore power gain from the turbo....so whatever power you make at 5-6k is what your gonna make at 8k.....with the .63 trim, the turbo will keep pulling until 8-9k....like the power will just keep rising from 6-8k instead of stayin the same from 6-8k

like lets say you decide to run the .48trim.....and lets say you tune it to 8k....well if you have 300hp at 6k...your still gonna make 300hp at 8k....

now if you go with the .63 trim....and say you make 300hp at 6k....then at 8k you'll make around 350-400hp...

...trust me....i would sell that .48 trim and get a .63 trim....especially with a B16

 

[Billy.]

definitely keep your A/C.. that's the only advice im giving. im in SC and dont have A/C. f**k it sucks

 

[TiiM iiS l3eAsT]

i live in missouri with no a/c or p/s lol....

its not that bad as long as you can roll down your windows lol...

 

[TopGear_]

yea I could deal with no a/c. but it would get old real quick. especially when it rains a lot in the summer. hot temps + rain + windows up = hell

 

[Billy.]

yea I could deal with no a/c. but it would get old real quick. especially when it rains a lot in the summer. hot temps + rain + windows up = hell

exactly. it turns into a sauna inside the cab on hot rainy days.. then the windshield starts to fog up so you have to turn the heat on to defrost it

 

[TopGear_]

exactly. it turns into a sauna inside the cab on hot rainy days.. then the windshield starts to fog up so you have to turn the heat on to defrost it

I guess if I have to delete something I'll make sure it's the ps

 

[toneekay]

63/57; that's all you need to turn this stock motor into a beast.

 

[TiiM iiS l3eAsT]

63/57; that's all you need to turn this stock motor into a beast.

its 57/63

 

[immajackuup]

RC 550cc injectors,i would change that to 750cc because in the long run u will want to turn the boost up.

also u can get a new 750cc for the same price as 550cc

 

[SlowTEC]

If you want to build the motor for the turbo setup I think getting the used block is a good idea. I've actually got a couple at home in storage right now.

You should be able to find either a complete short block or stripped block for relatively cheap. Hell, you might even be able to consider upping the displacement to 1.8 while you're at it by finding a GSR or LS block. Then like stated, you can get that block built while still piecing together your kit. When it's all done and you've got all your parts you can pull the B16, put together your new motor, bolt on all the turbo parts and drop it in as a complete setup. Or you could swap the motor in, break it in without boost, and put the parts on later... There's many options, and I think you're on the right track.

I however decided to keep my original block and such so that the VIN tags would match. Not a big deal, but I like the idea in case I want to sell it down the road...

 

[SlowTEC]

RC 550cc injectors,i would change that to 750cc because in the long run u will want to turn the boost up.

also u can get a new 750cc for the same price as 550cc

At least 750cc. A good tuner can get you a smooth idle with large injectors. Don't forget you may need a resistor box depending on which type of injectors you choose. I personally like these:

http://www.phearable.net/shoppingcart/bosch-1000cc-saturated-injectors-p-105.html - NO Box needed. Expensive, but reliable and smooth at idle.

BTW, do you have E85 in your area? It's what a lot of folks back home are running and having great success with.

 

[Wilkz]

well im running a swapped civic with no a/c and ps. ive gotten used to the power steering being gone, its really not that bad. hell it'll make you stronger with all those tight turns. but the a/c gone sucks. even with the windows down and the sunroof open, im still hot as hell. and i only live in va, with the temp around the 80's.

so if anything gets deleted, make it the power steering.

 

[TopGear_]

If you want to build the motor for the turbo setup I think getting the used block is a good idea. I've actually got a couple at home in storage right now.

You should be able to find either a complete short block or stripped block for relatively cheap. Hell, you might even be able to consider upping the displacement to 1.8 while you're at it by finding a GSR or LS block. Then like stated, you can get that block built while still piecing together your kit. When it's all done and you've got all your parts you can pull the B16, put together your new motor, bolt on all the turbo parts and drop it in as a complete setup. Or you could swap the motor in, break it in without boost, and put the parts on later... There's many options, and I think you're on the right track.

I however decided to keep my original block and such so that the VIN tags would match. Not a big deal, but I like the idea in case I want to sell it down the road...

what are the chances I could buy one of those blocks off you?

And whether it be a GSR or LS block, I would just need to get the head matched at the machine shop? There's no other mods that would need to be done?

At least 750cc. A good tuner can get you a smooth idle with large injectors. Don't forget you may need a resistor box depending on which type of injectors you choose. I personally like these:

http://www.phearable.net/shoppingcart/bosch-1000cc-saturated-injectors-p-105.html - NO Box needed. Expensive, but reliable and smooth at idle.

BTW, do you have E85 in your area? It's what a lot of folks back home are running and having great success with.

Yes I think we do but it's kind of hard to find.

well im running a swapped civic with no a/c and ps. ive gotten used to the power steering being gone, its really not that bad. hell it'll make you stronger with all those tight turns. but the a/c gone sucks. even with the windows down and the sunroof open, im still hot as hell. and i only live in va, with the temp around the 80's.

so if anything gets deleted, make it the power steering.

Alright I'll keep that in mind, thanks

 

[TopGear_]

Ok so I decided to build the motor first
Just bought:

KMS springs
KMS retainers
Eagle rods

Also, I've been thinking. Wouldn't it just cost more to purchase a bare block? I'm using the stock crank and what not so wouldn't it make sense to just have them use the block that is already in the car? They will have to rip the motor apart anyways, correct?

Just bought some Eagle H-Beams but haven't decided on pistons. what would yall recommend? thanks

 

[TiiM iiS l3eAsT]

for pistons i would go with wiseco

and yes you man as well use the block that is already in the car....no sense on buying another block

 

[TopGear_]

The newest snail Newly Rebuilt Garrett/Turbonetics T3/T4 A/R .60 (.63 exhaust side)