Boosting my d16y8

[Ceros]

I finally have some money and income every weekend to start boosting my d16y8. It's a 2000 ex, my engine has about 123xxx miles on it and has been running well. Now, I know some people are gonna say go do research etc. but I have and this is what I have come up with, and there are still a few questions but most are answered. Also this thread may provide others for help on their research, as I found most of my answers to my questions on threads that people made about their d series build. So, here goes. I'm in school so this is going to be a piece by piece build. This will be a DD and I'm hoping to get around 200whp to the wheels when it's done. So I have a .txt document that I keep track of parts list and everything really. So here it is:

Before Boost
======================================
- do compression test
- do leak down test
- new timing belt
- new water pump
- tranny swap
y8 tranny - fabian may get me one in town
get foot pedal assembly, shifter, and linkage at Nordstroms
will I need a new ECU?
5spd Starter
Tranny Mount/Bracket
Reverse Sensor/Speed Sensor
Clutch Master Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Lines
Flywheel/Clutch/Pressure Plate
5 Spd Pedal Assembly
Shift Boot/Shifter/Shift Knob
ECU - 5spd OBD2b ECU - needs to be for vtec
Shift Linkage
- slim radiator
- new cluth
- ARP head studs
- do head gasket

Boost
=====================================

- OBD Conversion
- EMS - chrome tuned p28
- t3/t4 turbo - to4?
turbonetics? greddy ( spendy )?
was thinking of t03 to start with for fast boost then later t4 for higher power.
straight t3?
- exhaust manifold - welded header - made for internal or external Wastegate
thinking either log, miniram, or Ramhorn. topmount will complicate things
- BOV - HKS? something not too loud but not too quiet.( HKS may be too loud )
- wastegate
external
- dump tube - 2.5"
- injectors
440cc for now
- intercooler
I hear ebay ones aren't too bad
- air intake
- piping from intake to intercooler
i hear ebay piping isn't bad
- piping from intercooler to turbo - charge piping
- downpipe
- 2.5" piping from header back to muffler
get done in town
- test pipe
- clean muffler - like new accords - no fart can
- will a smaller muffler that won't give me back pressure : 2.5" in/out.
good airflow, but still no fart can. not too loud. CLEAN
this is dece : http://www.clubcivic.com/store/apexi-ws-ii-exhaust_mp358.html
- spark plugs
get the ones that are 2 heat ranges cooler
- map sensor
make sure it's at least 2 bar or better.
- fuel pump
- map sensor
- tune at excessive
- new clutch
has 500 mile break in period. so get it soon and break it in before turbo
- new, bigger fuel pump
- redo head gasket
- turbo timer
not needed, could just run car easily for last couple minutes

questionables?
===============================

- vaccum manifold?

turbo FAQ
=====================

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1024174

complete how to turbo honda
===================================

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1263795


ebay kits guide
========================================

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1749857

places to buy parts
======================================
http://www.fjdistributors.com/





==================================================

any comments, concerns, links to things I can buy, can tell me good places to buy parts, notes from experience with boosted singles, or anything else please let me know. Also I may make a WTB d series turbo parts thread. If anyone has anything I need please PM me. Thanks.

 

[L.D.Forget]

- will i need OBD conversion?
yes
I will only need if i do a chipped ECU?
you need a chipped ecu so you can get it tuned.
- internal or external wastegate?
depends on manifold I guess
external

 

[fwdpower]

You're on track. Except you will have to do the manual swap FIRST. The auto tranny won't even hold 160 bhp, lol.

Clutches don't exactly 'need' 500 miles to break in. When you put it on, you can't exactly start launching your car @ 5k. Just use your clutch normally. One afternoon during rush hour is enough to 'break' in your clutch.

 

[EJ6_COUPE]

def do the manual swap first...my coupe is auto also and thinking bout boost but manual swap has to go first...and the injectors i would first check how much your planning on running on boost to then figure out wich 1s to get but i think the 440cc are good

 

[Ceros]

Okay, thanks for the help guys. I edited the first post for an updated version.

edit:

probably gonna post a WTB turbo parts and tranny soon. Also, anyone know of any good sites to buy any of these parts off of?

edit #2:

edited the initial post. Again.

 

[whoopnip]

Glad to see you finally got this thread up! Here's a couple extra things:

what kinda tranny should I get?

Popular choices are Y8 and Z6 transmissions for their shorter gearing. Any D-series transmission will work, however.

turbonetics? greddy ( spendy )? was thinking of t03 to start with for fast boost then later t4 for higher power. straight t3?

Remember that a turbo is more than just the flange. You will have to take into account A/R ratio, inducer and exducer size (trim), etc. Consider learning to read compressor maps, or alternatively ask a knowledgeable person give you some options.

Here's some links to help you out with general turbo and turbo support systems information, as well as selecting a turbo:

Read these in order:
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/tech_center/turbo_tech101.html
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/tech_center/turbo_tech102.html
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/tech_center/turbo_tech103.html

This one is separate:
http://www.theturboforums.com/turbotech/main.htm

550cc - higher potential for build later or...440cc?

As I remember you saying you wanted to eventually shoot for 350whp, I would recommend going with larger than 440cc injectors. You might be able to get there or close with 440cc, but you'd probably be maxing them out.

The best thing about 440cc is their availability used, but if you're planning for a summer build, you should have time.

air intake

Do you mean air filter?

tune at excessive

Do you mean tune rich?

Clutches don't exactly 'need' 500 miles to break in. When you put it on, you can't exactly start launching your car @ 5k. Just use your clutch normally. One afternoon during rush hour is enough to 'break' in your clutch.

Clutch manufacturers usually recommend 300-500 mile break in periods for a new clutch. Yes, it doesn't necessarily have to be done before the turbo build, but I know it;s tempting to start dropping the clutch once you know everything's working.

The clutch would probably work fine if you don't follow the full break in period.

Then again, it may not.

 

[kyle97charlie]

i'm gonna watch this thread. lol..

 

[Ceros]

i'm gonna watch this thread. lol..

haha. Thanks.

The clutch will prolly go in with everything else with the tranny and I'll run on that until the setup is all ready to go in. Which will be some good milage.

Glad to see you finally got this thread up! Here's a couple extra things:

Do you mean air filter?

yes.

[/QUOTE]

 

[got traction]

As I remember you saying you wanted to eventually shoot for 350whp, I would recommend going with larger than 440cc injectors. You might be able to get there or close with 440cc, but you'd probably be maxing them out.

The best thing about 440cc is their availability used, but if you're planning for a summer build, you should have time.




Clutch manufacturers usually recommend 300-500 mile break in periods for a new clutch. Yes, it doesn't necessarily have to be done before the turbo build, but I know it;s tempting to start dropping the clutch once you know everything's working.

The clutch would probably work fine if you don't follow the full break in period.

Then again, it may not.

he wont make 350 on 440's. go bigger

clutch break in means you shouldnt excessivly slip the clutch. drive it normal, you CAN get on it just dont slip it and launch on it

 

[Ceros]

Okay, I'll prolly end up going with 550cc as i thought before because I'm gonna build the internals later anyways.

Also, "tune at excessive" excessive is the name of a place in my town where I can get it tuned at. lol. my bad.

 

[got traction]

Okay, I'll prolly end up going with 550cc as i thought before because I'm gonna build the internals later anyways.

Also, "tune at excessive" excessive is the name of a place in my town where I can get it tuned at. lol. my bad.

are you planning on building the motor? sounds like you have pretty much done your homework though

 

[Ceros]

Glad to see you finally got this thread up! Here's a couple extra things:

Remember that a turbo is more than just the flange. You will have to take into account A/R ratio, inducer and exducer size (trim), etc. Consider learning to read compressor maps, or alternatively ask a knowledgeable person give you some options.

Here's some links to help you out with general turbo and turbo support systems information, as well as selecting a turbo:

Read these in order:
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/tech_center/turbo_tech101.html
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/tech_center/turbo_tech102.html
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/tech_center/turbo_tech103.html

This one is separate:
http://www.theturboforums.com/turbotech/main.htm
.

Thanks. I've read the ones from garrett but that other one is new to me. Thanks!

are you planning on building the motor? sounds like you have pretty much done your homework though

Yea. I'm building the internals next winter for some more power. In school right now and don't have a huge income. Thanks and yea I didn't want to get flamed for being a noob or something and asking "stupid


edit: updated the first post again.

 

[Ceros]

are you planning on building the motor? sounds like you have pretty much done your homework though

Yea. I'm building the internals next winter for some more power. In school right now and don't have a huge income. Thanks and yea I didn't want to get flamed for being a noob or something and asking "stupid

ahhh! DIDN'T WANT TO DOUBLE POST. I NEED TO DELETE THIS. SORRY

edit: shouldn't there be a "delete" button right between the "go advanced" and the "cancel" tab?

 

[whoopnip]

This may help with your manual swap, if you haven't seen this:

http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=157624

 

[Ceros]

This may help with your manual swap, if you haven't seen this:

http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=157624

Thanks man! i needed that.

edit:

updated post number 1 again.

 

[Ceros]

BUMP.

Anyone? any suggestions on where to buy? part list good?

 

[got traction]

BUMP.

Anyone? any suggestions on where to buy? part list good?

what do you need to purchase? PM me, moderators frown upon advertising

 

[Esotericimage]

^^^ glad u got this thread covered.. i have too many other guys and after reading the OP, it was exhausting..lol

 

[got traction]

 

[whoopnip]

what do you need to purchase? PM me, moderators frown upon advertising

I'll probably be working with this guy on my build, too.

I give him a