HELP my car wont start

RonJ

Banned
Again, if the fuel pump primes, don't replace the ignition switch. Also as I mentioned, get a test light or multimeter to check whether voltage reaches the Blk/Yel wire attached to the coil and ICM with key in ON(II). How did you test fuse 9? Gathering good reliable information and posting it will help find the fix.
 

ohsnapzitzmeng

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Again, if the fuel pump primes, don't replace the ignition switch. Also as I mentioned, get a test light or multimeter to check whether voltage reaches the Blk/Yel wire attached to the coil and ICM with key in ON(II). How did you test fuse 9? Gathering good reliable information and posting it will help find the fix.
well im not sure if this is testing but i pulled out the fuse and did a visuale inspection and it looked fine, didnt look burned out or aanything. i've posted all the info i have from teh top of my head, help me find what im missing.
 


ohsnapzitzmeng

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how do i check the blk/ylw wire? should i get a test light and touch the prongs on the connection of the wire and the ICM?
 

RonJ

Banned
how do i check the blk/ylw wire? should i get a test light and touch the prongs on the connection of the wire and the ICM?
Do you hear the fuel pump prime?

If so, next replace 15A fuse #9 (see diagram) with a new known good fuse, then try to start the engine.

If the engine does not start, remove the distributor cap and locate the Blk/Yel wire attached to the coil. Turn the key to ON(II). Connect the black test light probe to the thermostat housing and touch the red probe to the screw holding the Blk/Yel wire. Does the test light illuminate?

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Fuse 9:


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_REV_

SkooT or DiE
5+ Year Member
Again, if the fuel pump primes, don't replace the ignition switch. Also as I mentioned, get a test light or multimeter to check whether voltage reaches the Blk/Yel wire attached to the coil and ICM with key in ON(II). How did you test fuse 9? Gathering good reliable information and posting it will help find the fix.
The ignition switch could possibly be faulty, EVEN IF THE FUEL PUMP PIRMES. Honda factory has a recall for this problem. Call your Honda dealer with your vin code ready.
 

RonJ

Banned
The ignition switch could possibly be faulty, EVEN IF THE FUEL PUMP PIRMES. Honda factory has a recall for this problem. Call your Honda dealer with your vin code ready.
Just because there is an ignition switch recall, does not necessarily mean that the OP's ignition switch is bad. In fact, the observations below make the possibility of a bad ignition switch seem unlikely:

1) Despite the fact that the engine won't start, the CEL turns on with the key in ON(II). This indicates that the ignition switch properly switches battery voltage to the IG1 circuit, which includes both the fuel pump and distributor. Therefore, the ON(II) position of the ignition switch is probably fine.

2) The engine cranks with the key in ON(III) but won't start, most likely due to the lack of spark. The fuel pump, however, appears to run based on the smell of fuel. This suggests that the ON(III) position of the ignition switch is also fine.

These are the reasons that I am currently trying to keep the OP focused on troubleshooting fuse 9 and power to the distributor.

Nonetheless, if the OP wishes to test the ignition switch, here is how it is done:

 

_REV_

SkooT or DiE
5+ Year Member
Just because there is an ignition switch recall, does not necessarily mean that the OP's ignition switch is bad. In fact, the observations below make the possibility of a bad ignition switch seem unlikely:

1) Despite the fact that the engine won't start, the CEL turns on with the key in ON(II). This indicates that the ignition switch properly switches battery voltage to the IG1 circuit, which includes both the fuel pump and distributor. Therefore, the ON(II) position of the ignition switch is probably fine.

2) The engine cranks with the key in ON(III) but won't start, most likely due to the lack of spark. The fuel pump, however, appears to run based on the smell of fuel. This suggests that the ON(III) position of the ignition switch is also fine.

These are the reasons that I am currently trying to keep the OP focused on troubleshooting fuse 9 and power to the distributor.

Nonetheless, if the OP wishes to test the ignition switch, here is how it is done:

The problem with the switch is intermediate and hard to diagnose. I have personally fixed this problem a dozen times or more. Its a FREE fix from the factory, why not start there. Honda designed these cars, they might know best, since recalls cost the company time and money. They would not throw it out there if it wasn't a common problem.
 

RonJ

Banned
The problem with the switch is intermediate and hard to diagnose. I have personally fixed this problem a dozen times or more. Its a FREE fix from the factory, why not start there. Honda designed these cars, they might know best, since recalls cost the company time and money. They would not throw it out there if it wasn't a common problem.
If you would read the first post, you'll see that the problem is no longer intermittent -- currently the engine simply won't start. In this case, a bad ignition switch would be very simple to diagnose, right? And the current information does not fit best with an ignition switch problem, though I would like the OP to give us more information.

As you can tell, I am loathe to guessing what a problem might be when a little troubleshooting and information gathering will lead to a real fix. This approach saves both time and money.
 

Hecz

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i went down there and they ran my vin and i dont have the recal for my car.
really?

Official Notice of Recall
Honda Recalls Vehicles to Replace Ignition Switches

May 23, 2002
American Honda Motor Co., Inc. today announced a voluntary recall of certain Honda and Acura models to replace an ignition switch which may cause the engine to stall. The recall involves about 1.3 million of certain 1997 to 2000 models of Accord, Civic, Prelude, CR-V, and Odyssey. Also included in the recall are some 1999 Acura TL sedans and certain 1997 to 1999 CL coupes.

The situation is created by electrical contacts within the ignition switch that wear prematurely causing the switch to malfunction. An affected vehicle will likely experience difficulty in starting for a period of time prior to experiencing any engine stall. Normally, the vehicle can be restarted immediately.

Most customers will not experience problems with their ignition switch prior to repair -- less than 3/10ths of one percent of affected vehicles have experienced switch problems. Owners of affected vehicles will be contacted by American Honda and asked to take their vehicle to an authorized dealer to be repaired free of charge. The repair involves the replacement of the electrical contact portion of the ignition switch while retaining the original lock and key assemblies.

Owners will be notified by mail when parts are available for their model. Because of the large number of vehicles involved, it may take several months to make the replacement parts available for all vehicles. Mailings will begin in June and should be completed by September.

Details regarding mailing dates and affected vehicles will be available on the Honda and Acura Web sites. Owners will be able to access this information by registering at the "Owner Link" section and entering the 17-digit vehicle identification number found on their dash. Customers may also contact their Honda or Acura dealer with questions.

There have been no accidents or injuries reported to American Honda related to this issue.
 

ohsnapzitzmeng

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The problem with the switch is intermediate and hard to diagnose. I have personally fixed this problem a dozen times or more. Its a FREE fix from the factory, why not start there. Honda designed these cars, they might know best, since recalls cost the company time and money. They would not throw it out there if it wasn't a common problem.
i tried, went to the local honda and they ran my vin and said that there was no recalls for my model
 

Hecz

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i would try another dealer or two. there's possibility they could of lied, i dont know that for a fact, but we can compare and contrast what 3 dealers tell us.
 

ohsnapzitzmeng

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Do you hear the fuel pump prime?

If so, next replace 15A fuse #9 (see diagram) with a new known good fuse, then try to start the engine.

If the engine does not start, remove the distributor cap and locate the Blk/Yel wire attached to the coil. Turn the key to ON(II). Connect the black test light probe to the thermostat housing and touch the red probe to the screw holding the Blk/Yel wire. Does the test light illuminate?

-----------------
Fuse 9:


---------------------------------------

i replaced the fuse 9 and tried starting the car but its still not starting, maybe i'll check the voltage to
 

Hecz

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hey, out of curiosity, where do you live?
 

RonJ

Banned
the fuel pump clicks twice, before and after priming. easily heard.
The main relay clicks and fuel pump hums or buzzes.

OP: Remove the fuel cap and put your ear to the fuel fill hole while a buddy turns the key to ON(II). You should hear the low humming noise of the fuel pump priming for 2 seconds. Let us know what you find.
 


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