Which engine is better for a turbo?

[DarkCreep]

An LS longblock costs about $700-800 at hmotorsonline.com you'll need a tranny, axles and ecu for it though. But in the long run it will make more power than a b16. Go-autoworks.com kits start at around $2,000 and that's without any sort of fuel management. The one you're looking at for $1200 is probably a knock-off. You can also try to piece together your own kit and save some money but you'll have quality parts. The only thing you can get from ebay is probably an intercooler and piping, everything else you want to be reliable.




I don't think you should be calling anybody a noob, you have an eBay turbo kit...

For one I love my eBay turbo kit so far, nothing has failed on it. And im sorry, but if someone thinks that B will blow up before a D just because of the extra camshaft, theyre a n00b. Having a generic kit has nothing to do with ones knowledge. There are plenty of people out there doing some crazy ass set ups with high numbers on a ching chong turbo.

I wouldnt get a Go-autoworks kit, dont get me wrong they have some quality parts but I think they are way too expensive for what they come with. Some of them still come with a horrible designed log manifold with the WG on runner one which is what my generic kit came with, but at almost half the price.

If youre on a budget I would just turbo the D. F/I is really the only way to get *real* numbers out of it, unless you do a worthless high compression build which will yield decent hp numbers but no torque whatsoever. Whoever told you the B will blow up faster is a dumbass, it lies all in the tune but you can get much higher numbers with a stock B. 175whp is about the limit for most stock d series although some have hit more (willybignut *drool*). 230ish for LS motors. Yes there have been people with higher numbers but im talking about safe tunes. Also, doing a Vitara+Eagle Rod set up on the D is pretty cool but that will be kinda pricey if you have a shop do the work.
You can just swap over an LS, get the extra torque and boost more while keeping the motor stock. Weigh out the options and see which comes out the cheapest or fits your budget needs.

 

[Autoworks]

I want to do a turbo for my 93 EX coupe, and someone told me that the DOHC will blow easier than the SOHC. I was thinking of doing a B16 swap and the autoworks turbo (since it's cheap and well likes around here). But would it be better to just keep the D16z6 and rebuild it (170,000 miles on it) with forged internals?

So long question short, which will give me more power, less likely to blow and better since this car is my daily driver, except in the winter.

Given everything is equal, a B will not blow any easier than a D. A bad tune will destroy both motors equally. If your talking about ultimate power output at the end of the day, a B will out hp a D. Going by the info you've given, it doesn't look like that is your goal. It sounds more like a 200-350whp car would be more than enough; which in that case I'd turbo the D. While your doing that, I'd source an old $50 SOHC longblock and build one on the side. A LS swap is a great alternative and can be had on the "cheaper" end as well. I just sold a COMPLETE LS swap for $700 2 weeks ago and have 2 LS longblocks in my shop that were purchased for the sake of building extremely cheap. It really depends on how much work you want to do.

For one I love my eBay turbo kit so far, nothing has failed on it. Having a generic kit has nothing to do with ones knowledge. There are plenty of people out there doing some crazy ass set ups with high numbers on a ching chong turbo.

There are probably 10 times as many people out there with "ching chong" turbo kits that have failed miserably. Time will tell. Some people have success...most dont.

I wouldnt get a Go-autoworks kit, dont get me wrong they have some quality parts but I think they are way too expensive for what they come with. Some of them still come with a horrible designed log manifold with the WG on runner one which is what my generic kit came with, but at almost half the price.

Most people that buy an ebay turbo kit would agree that our kits are "expensive". Our kits come complete with proven quality parts. Not cheap knock off turbos, not cheap knock off wastegates, not cheap oil lines, not knock off blow off valves, not paper thin charge piping, not half assed down pipes and dumptubes, not cheap silicone/rubber couplers. The cost of the turbo alone in our kit usually acceeds the cost of a COMPLETE ebay "kit". The ebay kit is half the price for a reason...and that reason isnt because of the manifold casting...which I could also show proof that all cast manis aren't cast equally....but that's neither here nor there. It's the consumers choice, purchase what you feel comfortable with.

As for the cast manifold. The cast mani design has been proven time and time again to be effective for mild builds in the 200-350hp range. You are talking about an ENTRY level Street kit. Seriously.

FWIW...that same Street kit with the "horrible" manifold. It gets the job done with ease. EXCELLENT power ban with quality, reliable parts along with a solid tune. That makes for a trouble free long lasting build.

 

[somejaykid]

I don't think you should be calling anybody a noob, you have an eBay turbo kit...

and darkcreep weren't you a noob too for asking people here about turbo kits too

 

[somejaykid]

For one I love my eBay turbo kit so far, nothing has failed on it. And im sorry, but if someone thinks that B will blow up before a D just because of the extra camshaft, theyre a n00b. Having a generic kit has nothing to do with ones knowledge. There are plenty of people out there doing some crazy ass set ups with high numbers on a ching chong turbo.

I wouldnt get a Go-autoworks kit, dont get me wrong they have some quality parts but I think they are way too expensive for what they come with. Some of them still come with a horrible designed log manifold with the WG on runner one which is what my generic kit came with, but at almost half the price.

If youre on a budget I would just turbo the D. F/I is really the only way to get *real* numbers out of it, unless you do a worthless high compression build which will yield decent hp numbers but no torque whatsoever. Whoever told you the B will blow up faster is a dumbass, it lies all in the tune but you can get much higher numbers with a stock B. 175whp is about the limit for most stock d series although some have hit more (willybignut *drool*). 230ish for LS motors. Yes there have been people with higher numbers but im talking about safe tunes. Also, doing a Vitara+Eagle Rod set up on the D is pretty cool but that will be kinda pricey if you have a shop do the work.
You can just swap over an LS, get the extra torque and boost more while keeping the motor stock. Weigh out the options and see which comes out the cheapest or fits your budget needs.

Most people that buy an ebay turbo kit would agree that our kits are "expensive". Our kits come complete with proven quality parts. Not cheap knock off turbos, not cheap knock off wastegates, not cheap oil lines, not knock off blow off valves, not paper thin charge piping, not half assed down pipes and dumptubes, not cheap silicone/rubber couplers. The cost of the turbo alone in our kit usually acceeds the cost of a COMPLETE ebay "kit". The ebay kit is half the price for a reason...and that reason isnt because of the manifold casting...which I could also show proof that all cast manis aren't cast equally....but that's neither here nor there. It's the consumers choice, purchase what you feel comfortable with.

As for the cast manifold. The cast mani design has been proven time and time again to be effective for mild builds in the 200-350hp range. You are talking about an ENTRY level Street kit. Seriously.

FWIW...that same Street kit with the "horrible" manifold. It gets the job done with ease. EXCELLENT power ban with quality, reliable parts along with a solid tune. That makes for a trouble free long lasting build.

 

[charlie brown]

well kinda back to the point, to the op, its really what you want in the end. your goals and so on. this thread was funny as hell though. we all started some where is the important thing to remember.

 

[DarkCreep]

Most people that buy an ebay turbo kit would agree that our kits are "expensive". Our kits come complete with proven quality parts. Not cheap knock off turbos, not cheap knock off wastegates, not cheap oil lines, not knock off blow off valves, not paper thin charge piping, not half assed down pipes and dumptubes, not cheap silicone/rubber couplers. The cost of the turbo alone in our kit usually acceeds the cost of a COMPLETE ebay "kit". The ebay kit is half the price for a reason...and that reason isnt because of the manifold casting...which I could also show proof that all cast manis aren't cast equally....but that's neither here nor there. It's the consumers choice, purchase what you feel comfortable with.

As for the cast manifold. The cast mani design has been proven time and time again to be effective for mild builds in the 200-350hp range. You are talking about an ENTRY level Street kit. Seriously.

FWIW...that same Street kit with the "horrible" manifold. It gets the job done with ease. EXCELLENT power ban with quality, reliable parts along with a solid tune. That makes for a trouble free long lasting build.

I wasnt attacking or undermining your kit, dont get me wrong you do have quality parts I was just not a fan of the manifold for the price. Im sorry it came out the wrong way.

eBay turbo kits are a great beginners set up for someone wanting to get into the 180-250 range and slowly build upon it as in start upgrading waste gates, turbos etc and that fact cant be argued. Its just easier to buy an $800 kit, and slowly dump money into it than to get a $1500 kit all at once (although that would be the better alternative int he long run). So far nothing has failed on my generic kit and only time will tell when other s**t starts breaking *knock on wood*.

Ill agree with you on the fact that cast manifolds arent all created equal. If I could afford a go-autoworks kit you best believe I wouldve jumped on it like flies on s**t, but thats not the case with my unemployed ass.

and darkcreep weren't you a noob too for asking people here about turbo kits too

I am the biggest n00b alive when it comes to engine work. What i mean by calling him a n00b was the fact that hes a 10er, not that hes stupid or anything because im just as stupid. Only engine work i can do are removing and reinstalling valve covers and oil pans. But yeah, a lot have dumbass friends.

 

[got traction]

I wasnt attacking or undermining your kit, dont get me wrong you do have quality parts I was just not a fan of the manifold for the price. Im sorry it came out the wrong way.

eBay turbo kits are a great beginners set up for someone wanting to get into the 180-250 range and slowly build upon it as in start upgrading waste gates, turbos etc and that fact cant be argued. Its just easier to buy an $800 kit, and slowly dump money into it than to get a $1500 kit all at once (although that would be the better alternative int he long run). So far nothing has failed on my generic kit and only time will tell when other s**t starts breaking *knock on wood*.

Ill agree with you on the fact that cast manifolds arent all created equal. If I could afford a go-autoworks kit you best believe I wouldve jumped on it like flies on s**t, but thats not the case with my unemployed ass.


I am the biggest n00b alive when it comes to engine work. What i mean by calling him a n00b was the fact that hes a 10er, not that hes stupid or anything because im just as stupid. Only engine work i can do are removing and reinstalling valve covers and oil pans. But yeah, a lot have dumbass friends.

Here is the thing, when you work for a shop and you tune hundreds of turbo d series, you see what has success and what dosent. From what i see (being at a shop that tunes hundreds of turbo single cams), those who do the ebay turbo kit have far more issues that cost more in the long run. Im sure this is something Greg @ Go-Autoworks can agree with. Yes you can make power on a ebay kit, but the turbo wont usually last long, the manifold will crack and leak, and the wastegate will have horrible creep. Stick to quality parts, and you will not have as many issues. The SpeedFactory turbo kit and the Go-Autoworks turbo kit are put together with parts that are known to work great together, to minimize the issues you could occur down the road.

 

[rickles8099]

i think the two questions that this thread needed to be asked in the first reply are:

1. What are your horsepower goals
2. How deep are your pockets.

Both d series and b series engines have plus and minuses, but the biggest two things that we would need to know is how much hp you want to make and how much money. If all you want is 180-200whp max, go turbo d series. If you want 250-300, go turbo b series or build a d (building the d and turboing it can get you 300whp and be about the same price as swapping in a b series and then turboing it. You want a dyno queen, go b, f, h, or k series.

 

[CDubs]

once money starts pooring in aka i get a job ill be gettin 13 an hour so pockets will be decently deep and i was lookin like 200-250whp but my dseries has 170xxx miles on it so would it really be worth droping money into that or just boost a b16