HELP! Problems Diagnosing Problem,Check Engine Light, Limp Mode, OBD2 "NO Link"

VtecBlue

New Member
Engine Performance problem
2001 Honda Civic 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual 205595 miles


i was driving my car the other day, accelerating onto the highway when all of a sudden my car is starving. It begins to flutter, Battery light comes on, Key light comes on, and i can't do much more than coast to a safe spot off the highway.
. I pulled over, turned ff the car and checked to see if my Hood support stick hit my battery terminal and shorted the system. not the case. I inspected all my connections, nothing was out of place and started the car up again. This time, the battery light went off, The Check engine light came on, and Key light came on. i had no Power to the Tachometer, no power to the Engine Temp gauge and my car was idling in limp mode. I couldn't rev it past 3,000 rpms. I know this because i heard the bearing spin and makes a slight noise when it hits 3,000 RPM.


I was stumped. I drove the car home in side streets in limp mode, moving slower than a turtle.
I called up my buddy with a scan tool and We scanned the car and its said "NO LINK" .
This was funny. so i decided to take the Car to Auto zone, I drove there in limp mode, slowly. While driving on the highway i shut off the car, turned it off, back on, popped the clutch in gear and started the car, Intermittently the car would be ok, check enigine light will flash for a sec, the car would bog, then go back to normal, do this about 5-6 times and then finally stay in limp mode. during this time the Tach and Engine temp are working fine.
I also performed a Instrument Cluster check and all my gauges swept across indicating a perfect cluster.

SO when i got to AutoZone we scanned this again and the code reader said "Check connections"





we checked our timing belt just incase , there was no discrepency there, cam and crank sensors were good.

-we did the cluster built-in-test and all gages sweep normal. we have both ecu's and both will show the same symptoms.

-still no connections through the obd port.

-have checked all grounds-no problems found

-have changed main relays, no fix, although sometimes u will start the car and the tach and coolant gage work normal for about 5 seconds, then it cuts one of the 2 pgmfi relays. Im searching the wiring diagram now as to why one relay is being denergized. as soon as it clicks offline, the tsch and coolant temp goes out, runs rough, is in limp ect. hmmmmm??

if the immobilizer unit is swapped, do the keys need reprogram again?I swapped the immobilizer and the ignitions key switch as well.

Any help would be appreciated.
 

lowlife9

New Member
Registered VIP
5+ Year Member
probably a ecu problem.
 


aweldin

New Member
Same thing with my car after I changed timing belt. There is no fix for it. I have spent over 1,000.00 since April. It is manufacturer defect and Honda cannot fix it because they do not have part to fix it. Good Luck!!!!
 

vjf915

New Member
Registered VIP
Registered OG
5+ Year Member
Same thing with my car after I changed timing belt. There is no fix for it. I have spent over 1,000.00 since April. It is manufacturer defect and Honda cannot fix it because they do not have part to fix it. Good Luck!!!!
It seems to me like your response to EVERYONES problem is the timing belt. Stop posting misinformation.
 


billeastman

New Member
I have a 2001 civic w/ a similar problem. When it gets hot outside, and today add "muggy", the car will run fine and all of a sudden goes into that "slow" mode you talked about. The check engine light will come on. Buy simply letting the engine cool down it will run normal again. All the gages work fine, the engine is not over heated, but only happens when it gets hotter outside. The Honda dealer hooked up the the computer says it's possibley the cam sensor is bad, but I dont think they know what it is. Any help would be appreciated too.
 

Sifreak23

New Member
I have access to the honda isis online cause im training to be a tech...anyways with change of immobilizer setup of any sort, you need to take it in and have honda update the settings for the immobilizer system w/ HDS. it is whats causing your problem also if you changed the ecu same thing happens. hope that helps
 


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