Hendo's EF hatch project

[Hendo]

<

Here's the SiR wing, finally came in the mail. Has all the mounting studs and whatnot, but is missing one of those little plastic circles to cover a screw. I may just clean it, scuff it and give it some coats of flat black and slap it on there. Going to have to swap the connectors too, and then see how many LEDs need to be replaced. Still, much cooler than the weak little USDM spoiler.

Here's the SiR cluster I scored. Oops, did I get the 8 point in the picture? And his g/f? My bad.

And looky-looky. Trailing arms for a disc brake conversion. I've got a buddy with a shop, should be a piece of cake using a lift, assuming I can figure out what parts I need (rotors etc) and can get somebody to do up the e-brake. I think there's welding involved.

Anyway, that's the latest. It's averaging 25 degrees outside so not much is getting done, my buddy's shop is over 2 hours away so I can't just pop in and see if he's got an open bay I can borrow.

 

[Hendo]

Awesome on the 8 pointer. kinda followed the thread a little, do you have any plans for the body on that EF? its beautiful if you get that body together. the interior is hella clean from what i have seen. any news?

I plan on having the rust taken care of (new front drivers fender, new front and rear bumper fillers, plus the areas under the doors/around the wheel wells), and I'm having issues with the LED corner/blinker lights I've put in, I'll probably just go back to regular bulbs. I'm trying to be subtle about the changes I make, the sort of things that non-civic types (bleah, lol) wouldn't know weren't stock. I've put in clear turn markers and corner lights, and I have projector headlights that I'm still debating. I've got a set of altezza uber-bling chrome taillights that almost certainly aren't going on, as a buddy of mine told me hot water and oxygen bleach will clean up my stock taillights. They've got some grit in there from a previous sunroof leak.

Thanks for noticing the interior. I assumed from the utter lack of comments about it that a 98% clean interior was run of the mill for a 20 year old civic. The latest news is that I don't think I'm losing compression. I think it was the four year old air filter lmao

I've been talking with Larry Widmer of Endyn about having an engine built. He'll do a bored and stroked B18C1 with all new parts (except the block, although it's bored and sleeved) for about $14,000, not including transmission or installation. Pricey, but you pay for the best. Still undecided about it.

 

[charlie brown]

im assuming you ment 1,400.00 for the motor. but ya good deal. and i tell ya man, too me a clean interior like that, is a thing of beauty. and no you dont see ten year old cars with interior like that. good show old chap.

 

[zachkelly]

cool another michigan guy!

 

[Hendo]

Nope, I meant $14,000. This is a complete custom job by a guy who built up his company and was then actually bought out by Honda because of what he came up with in regards to air flow. The guy is a genius and a freakin' wizard with a grinder. Here's the cost breakdown:

Core B18C1 Engine / Harness / ECU $2500.00
Darton Sleeves $1150.00
Bore & Hone Block $ 375.00
Align-Hone Block $ 200.00
Deck Block $ 100.00
Rework Oil Passages $ 75.00
Lighten Crank (optional) $ 150.00
Balance Reciprocating Assy $ 200.00

Roller-Wave Pistons $ 525.00
Rings (Napier Style) $ 145.00
Maxi-Lite Long Billet Rods $ 755.00
92mm Crower Stroker Crank (limited availability) $ 745.00
Ceramic Piston Skirt Coating $ 150.00

Endyn Head Oiling Kit $ 169.00
Honda Main Bearings $ 111.36
Honda Thrust Bearings $ 12.95
Honda Rod Bearings $ 85.40
Honda ITR Oil Pump $ 106.20
Modify ITR Pump $ 135.00
Moroso Oil Pan (optional) $ 333.00
Moroso Oil Pick-Up Tube (optional) $ 39.59
ITR Water Pump $ 82.89
Cam Belt $ 48.88
Belt Tensioner $ 49.76
Oil Pan Gasket $ 18.48
Rear Crank Oil Seal $ 8.25
Harmonic Balancer Bolt/Washer $ 9.23
Fluidamper Harmonic Balancer $ 325.25
ARP Head Studs $ 125.00
ARP Main Studs (optional) $ 95.00
Cometic HP Head Gasket $ 99.50
Endyn Top-End Oil Kit $ 164.00
Endyn Breather Kit $ 175.00
Headwork Package $1250.00
Manganese Bronze Valve Guides $ 175.00

S/S Valves $ 248.00
Valve Springs $ 325.00
Titanium Retainers $ 149.00
Hardened Split Locks $ 52.80
Endyn Bump-Stix Cams $ 550.00

Fabricated Intake Manifold (optional) $ 1095.00
Reworked Edelbrock Intake Manifold $ 734.22
68mm Throttle Body $ 315.00
Fuel Rail $ 125.00
550cc RCE Injectors $ 322.12

Plug Wires (Modded-Magnacor) $ 96.22
Spark Plugs (2 sets) $ 18.85


Assembly Labor (Longblock) $1200.00
Dyno-Tune & Break-In $1000.00
Crate For Shipment $ 150.00

 

[Hendo]

im assuming you ment 1,400.00 for the motor. but ya good deal. and i tell ya man, too me a clean interior like that, is a thing of beauty. and no you dont see ten year old cars with interior like that. good show old chap.

Ten years old?! It's a 91! lol and thanks. I'm only the 3rd owner, I'm sure that has something to do with it. The lady I bought it from bought it used off a 3 year lease, and daily drove it to work. I bought it for $1,800 5 years ago with 110,000 miles on it, and have gotten it to 193,000 replacing only the axles (and doing normal maintenance and optional, fun stuff). Honda for the win.

 

[Hendo]

cool another michigan guy!

For real. I doubt there are many of us in the rust belt that can keep a Civic from falling apart for 10+ years lol

 

[charlie brown]

Ten years old?! It's a 91! lol and thanks. I'm only the 3rd owner, I'm sure that has something to do with it. The lady I bought it from bought it used off a 3 year lease, and daily drove it to work. I bought it for $1,800 5 years ago with 110,000 miles on it, and have gotten it to 193,000 replacing only the axles (and doing normal maintenance and optional, fun stuff). Honda for the win.

Numbers don't lie. And I ment you don't see cars that are half the age of yours, in that condition. And if you have that kinda $ to spend on a motor.........I say do it. Then drive that b***h like its stolen, all the the time

 

[charlie brown]

I should add up my parts to date still on my car. I think I will, so if I die of shock tonight don't be suprised

 

[boosted_zc]

nice hatch, i want a sir wing so bad but the price is ridiculous.... check out my build too

 

[Robin...]

Wow that rust needs work man, good luck...

 

[Hendo]

Numbers don't lie. And I ment you don't see cars that are half the age of yours, in that condition. And if you have that kinda $ to spend on a motor.........I say do it. Then drive that b***h like its stolen, all the the time

After I thought about it for a second that's what I figured you meant lol

Yeah, I'm going to be saving for a bit, I may do a ZC swap in the meantime. I need something to hold me over XD

 

[Hendo]

I should add up my parts to date still on my car. I think I will, so if I die of shock tonight don't be suprised

Well when you do that stuff over time it's not so bad. That's why this motor might be a while. I'm not loaded, $14k for a motor is a big outlay for me.

 

[Hendo]

nice hatch, i want a sir wing so bad but the price is ridiculous.... check out my build too

Mine was $120 with about $80 shipping. Not too bad.

 

[Hendo]

Wow that rust needs work man, good luck...

Thankfully, I've got friends in the business. Replacing the drivers fender and front and rear bumper filler panels. Gonna have a friend help me out with the rest of the rust, and his dad will do the spray. I'm keeping the Tahitian Green Pearl Clearcoat.

 

[EK Eire]

$14,000 dollars for a motor! That's crazy stuff! Should be a crazy setup. Watching with interest Good luck man

 

[Hendo]

The more I think about it, yeah. $14k for a motor is crazy stuff. I'm totally making an end run around real hot-rodding. What I should be doing is boosting a D16 of some kind, something I can afford to buy parts for over time. The end result will be 300+ whp for less than half of the cost of that motor alone.

So, new poll. What D16 should I boost? Obviously boosting the D16A6 I already have will save some money, but if I swap in another motor I can continue to drive it while the other motor gets built. I believe the D16Z6 plugs right in (although it's OBD1) as a VTEC option, and there's always the OBD0 DOHC ZC. Help me out, guys. Especially those who have/had these motors boosted.

 

[Hendo]

Bump during a busier part of the day.

The ZC seems like a smarter choice with a boosted application, but common sense (DOHC flowing more air than SOHC) isn't always right when we're talking physics.

Parts I know I need:

Bottom end: rods, pistons, head studs, main cap bolts. What else?

Top end: I may just ship my head somewhere to have a port & polish job done, maybe even have them replace all the moving bits too. Valves, retainers, guides, cam(s) and gear(s). What else?

And of course, a turbo kit. Injectors, fuel pump, oil pump(?), boost controller, professional tuning. What else?

Help me start my list.

 

[charlie brown]

good start to the list pimpin, but, start researching all your supporting mods for the build. map sensors, waste gates and stuff. you can get good kits, but imo the build can be alot more balanced when pieced together, with some good guidance when questions arise, and they will. I had tons of questions and still do.

 

[2000 ex]

problem with my 2000 civic ex

been having a problem for awhile now that comes and goes.. while engine is running my SRS light comes on and stays on then all my lights start to flicker even my headlights.. every once in a while my speakers go out and only my bass works to fix this problem i have to turn on my headlights, defrost and A/C or the speakers stay off.. even with all this the lights still flicker and because of it my engine loses power.. please help me