1995 Civic DX Sedan w/ D15B7 - my first civic

[Zeleanon]

Hello all, I just got my first Civic a few days ago and I figured I'd join a place like this to see what I could learn. I'm 18, and fairly mechanically competent. The car is a 1995 Honda Civic DX 1.5L D15B7. What it lacks in power it seems to make up for in gas mileage. It's starting to burn oil, I guess just from old age but I don't know too much about this motor. The odometer reads 166000, although I don't really trust the prior owner. I've replaced the front CV axles, calipers, brake pads, a rear brake line and hub on the same side, as well as some cosmetic stuff. I've since learned that bending metal brake lines should qualify as a fine art.

So that was my introduction. Now I've got a few questions for other D15B7 owners, just wondering if these are common problems:

1) Coolant temperature gauge in the gauge cluster doesn't seem to work. I unplugged the two wires from the sensor on the thermostat housing and jumped them together as a test. The fans came on but the gauge never moved. Did I do something wrong, or has anyone else experienced this with a 5th gen?

2) Air conditioner really lugs motor, when idling sometimes it'll nearly stall before it corrects itself or kicks off. Bad compressor or idle-up?

3) This thing has rust on several body panels that's been covered up with bondo.. Should I expect most of the rest of it to eventually rust? A lot of people have told me the 5th gens rusted a LOT.

4) Motor kind of ticks at a certain RPM. I think it's valve lash... but I'm not sure. No noticeable difference in performance. Maybe it's just high mileage, I've never had a car above 100k before. Or maybe it's just inherent in these motors?

I'd really appreciate ANY help related to these problems.

Also if anyone knows where I can get an instrument cluster from an EX or LX 5th gen that has a working tachometer, hit me up. I can't stand owning a standard without a tach. Why put a tach in an auto anyway, the trans shifts for you...

 

[RonJ]

It's starting to burn oil, I guess just from old age but I don't know too much about this motor.

Is the engine leaking or burning oil?

I've since learned that bending metal brake lines should qualify as a fine art.

You could turn this into a profession by forming brake lines into Disney characters.


1) Coolant temperature gauge in the gauge cluster doesn't seem to work. I unplugged the two wires from the sensor on the thermostat housing and jumped them together as a test. The fans came on but the gauge never moved. Did I do something wrong, or has anyone else experienced this with a 5th gen?

The signal for the cluster temp gauge comes from the 1-wire sensor under the distributor. Unplug the sensor and briefly ground the connector wire to the engine with the key in ON(II). Does the needle rise?

2) Air conditioner really lugs motor, when idling sometimes it'll nearly stall before it corrects itself or kicks off. Bad compressor or idle-up?

Turn the key from off to the ON(II) position. Turn the cabin blower on and push the A/C button on. Does the condenser fan run?

4) Motor kind of ticks at a certain RPM. I think it's valve lash... but I'm not sure. No noticeable difference in performance. Maybe it's just high mileage, I've never had a car above 100k before. Or maybe it's just inherent in these motors?

Is the engine low on oil? Use an inexpensive engine stethoscope to figure out whether the ticking is coming from the head or block.

 

[Deezy]

to the site...For the temperature gauge, perform these test..

 

[Zeleanon]

Deezy: Thanks for the Diagram

RonJ: The engine used to leak from the oil plug but I've since replaced the plug with a new one with a new washer and it's stopped. The exhaust isn't blue but it does smell a little rich and a little oily.

That'd be pretty funny. Brake Line Mickey.

I'll try to ground that wire in a minute.

When the motor is running, the condensor fan works. I'm not sure about when it's off.

I always keep an eye on the oil, because it leaked before and I had to and it's just a habit now. It's not low. I believe it's coming from the head, and it's only around like 2500 or some odd rpms like that. Which is partly why I wish I had a tach.

 

[RonJ]

The engine used to leak from the oil plug but I've since replaced the plug with a new one with a new washer and it's stopped.

Are there now ANY signs of oil leaking at the top, sides, or bottom of the engine? If the exterior of the engine is caked with old oil, you may want clean it off and then watch for locations where fresh oil first appears.

When the motor is running, the condensor fan works. I'm not sure about when it's off.

Any CEL codes? The A/C system refrigerant pressure is either two high or there is an idle speed problem. With the engine idling, the idle speed should increase when you turn the A/C on. If this does not happen, try cleaning the IACV and adjusting the idle speed. Also check whether the condenser is clogged with bugs and debris.

I always keep an eye on the oil, because it leaked before and I had to and it's just a habit now. It's not low. I believe it's coming from the head, and it's only around like 2500 or some odd rpms like that. Which is partly why I wish I had a tach.

You could start by adjusting the valve lash.

 

[Zeleanon]

The engine is remarkably clean. Feels like it may be leaking just a little around something under the distributor. I can't see anything under the distributor and I'm not sure I'd know how to remove it

Also, no check engine lights. It had one related to fuel before, but it was just an o2 sensor.

I can't even see the single wire temperature sensor... How do I get it out? What size socket, if you know? I know its the sensor, I grounded the wire and the gauge pretty much shot up.

 

[RonJ]

Oil under the distributor usually means a bad distributor O-ring. Get an OEM one at the Honda dealer. It's a pretty easy fix. If you are burning oil, cylinder compression and leak down tests should help to pinpoint the problem to the piston rings, valve seals, or head gasket.

For the idle, start by replacing the PCV valve, cleaning the IACV, and then adjust the idle speed to spec.

Did you fix the O2 sensor code?

To access the temp sender unit, remove the distributor (replace O-ring at this time). I'm not sure what deep socket size fits the sender unit.

 

[Zeleanon]

Is the O-Ring reusable if it isn't the problem? I'm not totally sure how to take apart the distributor, but I think I can figure it out.

Planned on replacing the pcv, even though it looks pretty new just for the hell of it. The motor has smelled pretty rich since I've had it. Turns out that someone left a shop rag in the air box though, and it was stuck to the filter. I'm not sure what damage that may've caused aside of getting no air and probably killing the last O2. It's got a denso in it now.

I replaced the O2 sensor. How do I clear the code?

As for getting at the temp sensor, I guess if I have to replace it it'll have to wait until tomorrow it's supposed to rain here today.

Thanks for all your help btw.

 

[RonJ]

You don't need to disassemble the distributor. You only need to remove it. Before you do, however, use a Sharpie marker to make a line across an ear of the distributor and the head. This will allow you to maintain the ignition timing after reinstalling the distributor. The O-ring is so cheap, so just replace it.

CEL codes can be cleared by removing the 7.5A hood Back Up fuse for several minutes.