96 civic Passenger Door Lock not working

Mugenej8

Guest
Hi i was wondering if anyone in here has or had the same problem as me, i just notice that my passenger side door lock doesnt not work when i lock my car with my alarm then i try to see use the switch on the driver side to lock it but it doesnt work still and the driver side works fine only the passenger side is not responding and this just happen out of nowhere.

i told it to my alarm installation place and they say its not the alarm it could be my door lock motor when out??

any suggestion thanks
 

evilrilla2

New Member
Registered VIP
5+ Year Member
fuse might be working correctly since the driver side works. you could open it up and look inside to see if something broke, such as the latch. if all looks functioning corectly maybe the alarm guy is right.
 


leothelion

d:p
Registered VIP
cold just be the lock solenoid/actuator(its not a motor lol, if he said that the lock motor was bad dont take it to that mechanic lol) open up both door panels and note any discrepancies, like burn spots in the plastic-(note: there will be yellowish discoloration around the quick connections because of the anti corrosion paste they put on them, thats normal.) You could run a 12v line to the door and put it on the actuator positive, if it flips then you know its a problem with the wirings, if not then you know its the actuator/solenoid. good luck
 

Mugenej8

Guest
leothelion said:
cold just be the lock solenoid/actuator(its not a motor lol, if he said that the lock motor was bad dont take it to that mechanic lol) open up both door panels and note any discrepancies, like burn spots in the plastic-(note: there will be yellowish discoloration around the quick connections because of the anti corrosion paste they put on them, thats normal.) You could run a 12v line to the door and put it on the actuator positive, if it flips then you know its a problem with the wirings, if not then you know its the actuator/solenoid. good luck
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no hes my personal machine and he did mention the faulty motor inside the actuator i just didnt know what it was call but yea i opened up my panels and looked all i see is that everything is attach right but the connector seems yellowish and look like its burn but im not sure.
 


leothelion

d:p
Registered VIP
Mugenej8 said:
no hes my personal machine and he did mention the faulty motor inside the actuator i just didnt know what it was call but yea i opened up my panels and looked all i see is that everything is attach right but the connector seems yellowish and look like its burn but im not sure.
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lol. ok good. i have talked to some mechanics who dont know anything and would probably mess your car up more. wish i had a personal mechanic. anyways yeah that yellow stuff is normal, its just the stuff they put on there to keep everything from corroding, and it reacts with the plastic and becomes yellow, wich looks a lot like a burn mark, but its not. at least thats WHAT I HAVE BEEN TOLD. if anyone has some other ideas on this feel free to chime in and correct me. but from what i understand that is normal, its on mine and both my windows work perfectly fine.
 

Mugenej8

Guest
leothelion said:
lol. ok good. i have talked to some mechanics who dont know anything and would probably mess your car up more. wish i had a personal mechanic. anyways yeah that yellow stuff is normal, its just the stuff they put on there to keep everything from corroding, and it reacts with the plastic and becomes yellow, wich looks a lot like a burn mark, but its not. at least thats WHAT I HAVE BEEN TOLD. if anyone has some other ideas on this feel free to chime in and correct me. but from what i understand that is normal, its on mine and both my windows work perfectly fine.
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haha yup so my machanic told me to just buy the original part with is the passenger side Door lock Actuator Assembly since honda cost around 90 buck at honda dealership so i hop on to Hondapartdeals.com and got a great deal on it only 40 dollars yes lol so now im waiting for it to come in and i will keep you updated. also should i or shouldnt i be worry about the look alike burn mark on the connectors? lol

also i try locking and unlocking but there is nothing moving or making any kind of noise on the passenger side so im guessing the actuator is dead???????:?:

Deezy said:
Download the service manual ......Here.....Peruse and enjoy.......:mrgreen:
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Thank
 

leothelion

d:p
Registered VIP
probs dead, it can happen sometimes. no, you DONT need to worry about the "burn" marks. i have always been told that it was just a chemical reaction with the plastic and it happens to everyone.
 

Mugenej8

Guest
leothelion said:
probs dead, it can happen sometimes. no, you DONT need to worry about the "burn" marks. i have always been told that it was just a chemical reaction with the plastic and it happens to everyone.
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Ok so no worries about the burn marks lol but yea like I said I just went ahead and ordered a new actuator so hopefully that will solve the problem.. You gotta love cars, fix one thing another problem creeps right back just to bite your wallet haha..
 

Mugenej8

Guest
Ok so i got the new actuator and still it does not work what can be wrong i alway tried replacing the Door Lock Module located in the drivers door and still nothing my last attempt is going to be the fuse, if there is any for the door lock..... can anyone help me with this one?
 

RonJ

Banned
You mentioned that the passenger door won't lock. Will it unlock using the alarm or the driver's door switch? I would presume that it also does not unlock. You almost surely have a bad wire. Do you have a multimeter to help pinpoint the bad wire? Usually wire breaks occur where the wire harness runs between the door and body, where the harness is constantly flexed.
 

Mugenej8

Guest
RonJ said:
You mentioned that the passenger door won't lock. Will it unlock using the alarm or the driver's door switch? I would presume that it also does not unlock. You almost surely have a bad wire. Do you have a multimeter to help pinpoint the bad wire? Usually wire breaks occur where the wire harness runs between the door and body, where the harness is constantly flexed.
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Nope it does not unlock using the remote or the switch..... so meaning i do have a bad wire cause my driver side work just fine???
 

Mugenej8

Guest
RonJ said:
Post a picture of your multimeter. Does it have a good battery in it?
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heres a pic of it . would you be able to tell me how to use it and to test which part of the wire thanks

 

RonJ

Banned
You multimeter has these resistance/Ohm (horseshoe symbol) scale settings: 2000K, 200K, 20K, 2000, 200. Turn the central dial of the meter to the 200 Ohm scale position. The red and black meter probe wires are already correctly installed in the picture to measure resistance.

Remove the driver and passenger door panels. In the driver's door, unplug the Lock Control Unit (LCU), which has a 12P connector. In the passenger's door, unplug the lock actuator, which has a 2P wire harness connector with Wht/Red and Yel/Red wires. You should be able to find those two same wires in the 14P wire harness connector for the LCU. Have a buddy firmly touch one of the meter probes to the Wht/Red wire terminal in the 2P connector while you firmly touch the same terminal in the 14P connector. Next, do the same test for the Yel/Red wire terminals. For each test, do you measure 50 Ohms or less?
 

Mugenej8

Guest
RonJ said:
You multimeter has these resistance/Ohm (horseshoe symbol) scale settings: 2000K, 200K, 20K, 2000, 200. Turn the central dial of the meter to the 200 Ohm scale position. The red and black meter probe wires are already correctly installed in the picture to measure resistance.

Remove the driver and passenger door panels. In the driver's door, unplug the Lock Control Unit (LCU), which has a 12P connector. In the passenger's door, unplug the lock actuator, which has a 2P wire harness connector with Wht/Red and Yel/Red wires. You should be able to find those two same wires in the 14P wire harness connector for the LCU. Have a buddy firmly touch one of the meter probes to the Wht/Red wire terminal in the 2P connector while you firmly touch the same terminal in the 14P connector. Next, do the same test for the Yel/Red wire terminals. For each test, do you measure 50 Ohms or less?
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Ok sounds simple enough i will give this a try on monday hopefully i do it right and i will let you know the result i will post my result here and pm you to notify you that i have the result

thanks
 
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