Well I gotta get a new caliper before I can go anymore so it wont be for awhile.
2000 Civic Si Over Heating problem! HELP!
- Thread starter BboyZr0
- Start date
bump for ya, wish I could help more
why do you keep bumping? have you replaced the thermostat? did that fix the problem?
first off, looks like you need to do a radiator flush cause that s**t looks gunked up . 2nd, you need to take that houseing off to get to the thermostat , and when you replace it, be sure to tell them you need a new gasket too, go ahead and replace it . you will prolly rip it or stretch it when you take that housing off, its basically 2 10mm bolts man, take those out, pull that off. pull the thermo out, put the new in, take the old gasket off, put the new gasket on. bolt it back up, put your hose on, drain your radiatior put new antifreeze in. run it with the cap off for a few min and let it bleed the lines, its gonna gurgle and bubble for a few, put your cap back on and your done.
BboyZr0
New Member
Alright, i'll give all that a try possibly tomorrow. Give you an update bout the results. Thanks man
BboyZr0
New Member
no, not yet. but does the thermostat really matter all that much? like, what exactly does it do? i was told from someone that during this time of the year you can run without the thermostat. so if you run without it and the engine is still heating up then its not the thermostat? not sure if its true or not though =\
LiveEj6
New Member
Hope this helps
"Thermostat." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, Inc, 05may2011. Web. 17 May 2011. <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermostat#Automotive>.
Wax pellet
[edit]Automotive
Main article: Wax thermostatic element
"Car engine thermostat
Perhaps the best example of purely mechanical technology in widespread use today is the internal combustion engine cooling thermostat. These are used to maintain the core temperature of the engine at its optimum operating temperature by regulating the flow of coolant to an external heat sink, usually an air cooled radiator. Also, research in the 1920s showed that cylinder wear was aggravated by condensation of fuel when it contacted a cool cylinder wall which removed the oil film, and the development of the automatic thermostat in the 1930s provided a solution to this problem by ensuring fast engine warm-up.[3]
This type of thermostat operates mechanically. It makes use of a wax pellet inside a sealed chamber. The wax is solid at low temperatures but as the engine heats up the wax melts and expands. The sealed chamber has an expansion provision that operates a rod which opens a valve when the operating temperature is exceeded. The operating temperature is fixed, but is determined by the specific composition of the wax, so thermostats of this type are available to maintain different temperatures, typically in the range of 70 to 90°C (160 to 200°F). Modern engines run hot, that is, over 80°C (180°F), in order to run more efficiently and to reduce the emission of pollutants. Most thermostats have a small bypass hole to vent any gas that might get into the system, e.g., air introduced during coolant replacement, which also allows a small flow of coolant past the thermostat when it is closed. This bypass flow ensures that the thermostat experiences the temperature change in the coolant as the engine heats up; without it a stagnant region of coolant around the thermostat could shield it from temperature changes in the coolant adjacent to the combustion chambers and cylinder bores.
While the thermostat is closed, there is no flow of coolant in the radiator loop, and water flow is instead redirected back through the engine, allowing it to warm up rapidly while also avoiding hotspots within the engine. The thermostat stays closed until the coolant temperature reaches the nominal thermostat opening temperature. The thermostat then progressively opens as the coolant temperature increases to the optimum operating temperature, increasing the coolant flow to the radiator. Once the optimum operating temperature is reached, the thermostat progressively increases or decreases its opening in response to temperature changes, dynamically balancing the coolant recirculation flow and coolant flow to the radiator to maintain the engine temperature in the optimum range as engine heat output, vehicle speed, and outside ambient temperature change. Under normal operating conditions the thermostat is open to about half of its stroke travel, so that it can open further or reduce its opening to react to changes in operating conditions. A correctly designed thermostat will never be fully open or fully closed while the engine is operating normally, or overheating or overcooling would occur. For instance,
If more cooling is required, e.g., in response to an increase in engine heat output which causes the coolant temperature to rise, the thermostat will increase its opening to allow more coolant to flow through the radiator and increase engine cooling. If the thermostat were already fully open, then it would not be able to increase the flow of coolant to the radiator, hence there would be no more cooling capacity available, and the increase in heat output by the engine would result in overheating.
If less cooling is required, e.g., in response to decrease in ambient temperature which causes the coolant temperature to fall, the thermostat will decrease its opening to restrict the coolant flow through the radiator and reduce engine cooling. If the thermostat were already fully closed, then it would not be able to reduce cooling in response to the fall in coolant temperature, and the engine temperature would fall below the optimum operating range.
Double valve engine thermostat
Engines which require a tighter control of temperature, as they are sensitive to "Thermal shock" caused by surges of coolant, may use a "constant inlet temperature" system. In this arrangement the inlet cooling to the engine is controlled by double-valve thermostat which mixes a re-circulating sensing flow with the radiator cooling flow. These employ a single capsule, but have two valve discs. Thus a very compact, and simple but effective, control function is achieved.
The wax product used within the thermostat requires a specific process to produce. Unlike a standard paraffin wax, which has a relatively wide range of carbon chain lengths, a wax used in the thermostat application has a very narrow range of carbon molecule chains. The extent of the chains is usually determined by the melting characteristics demanded by the specific end application. To manufacture a product in this manner requires very precise levels of distillation, which is difficult or impossible for most wax refineries."
"Thermostat." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, Inc, 05may2011. Web. 17 May 2011. <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermostat#Automotive>.
Wax pellet
[edit]Automotive
Main article: Wax thermostatic element
"Car engine thermostat
Perhaps the best example of purely mechanical technology in widespread use today is the internal combustion engine cooling thermostat. These are used to maintain the core temperature of the engine at its optimum operating temperature by regulating the flow of coolant to an external heat sink, usually an air cooled radiator. Also, research in the 1920s showed that cylinder wear was aggravated by condensation of fuel when it contacted a cool cylinder wall which removed the oil film, and the development of the automatic thermostat in the 1930s provided a solution to this problem by ensuring fast engine warm-up.[3]
This type of thermostat operates mechanically. It makes use of a wax pellet inside a sealed chamber. The wax is solid at low temperatures but as the engine heats up the wax melts and expands. The sealed chamber has an expansion provision that operates a rod which opens a valve when the operating temperature is exceeded. The operating temperature is fixed, but is determined by the specific composition of the wax, so thermostats of this type are available to maintain different temperatures, typically in the range of 70 to 90°C (160 to 200°F). Modern engines run hot, that is, over 80°C (180°F), in order to run more efficiently and to reduce the emission of pollutants. Most thermostats have a small bypass hole to vent any gas that might get into the system, e.g., air introduced during coolant replacement, which also allows a small flow of coolant past the thermostat when it is closed. This bypass flow ensures that the thermostat experiences the temperature change in the coolant as the engine heats up; without it a stagnant region of coolant around the thermostat could shield it from temperature changes in the coolant adjacent to the combustion chambers and cylinder bores.
While the thermostat is closed, there is no flow of coolant in the radiator loop, and water flow is instead redirected back through the engine, allowing it to warm up rapidly while also avoiding hotspots within the engine. The thermostat stays closed until the coolant temperature reaches the nominal thermostat opening temperature. The thermostat then progressively opens as the coolant temperature increases to the optimum operating temperature, increasing the coolant flow to the radiator. Once the optimum operating temperature is reached, the thermostat progressively increases or decreases its opening in response to temperature changes, dynamically balancing the coolant recirculation flow and coolant flow to the radiator to maintain the engine temperature in the optimum range as engine heat output, vehicle speed, and outside ambient temperature change. Under normal operating conditions the thermostat is open to about half of its stroke travel, so that it can open further or reduce its opening to react to changes in operating conditions. A correctly designed thermostat will never be fully open or fully closed while the engine is operating normally, or overheating or overcooling would occur. For instance,
If more cooling is required, e.g., in response to an increase in engine heat output which causes the coolant temperature to rise, the thermostat will increase its opening to allow more coolant to flow through the radiator and increase engine cooling. If the thermostat were already fully open, then it would not be able to increase the flow of coolant to the radiator, hence there would be no more cooling capacity available, and the increase in heat output by the engine would result in overheating.
If less cooling is required, e.g., in response to decrease in ambient temperature which causes the coolant temperature to fall, the thermostat will decrease its opening to restrict the coolant flow through the radiator and reduce engine cooling. If the thermostat were already fully closed, then it would not be able to reduce cooling in response to the fall in coolant temperature, and the engine temperature would fall below the optimum operating range.
Double valve engine thermostat
Engines which require a tighter control of temperature, as they are sensitive to "Thermal shock" caused by surges of coolant, may use a "constant inlet temperature" system. In this arrangement the inlet cooling to the engine is controlled by double-valve thermostat which mixes a re-circulating sensing flow with the radiator cooling flow. These employ a single capsule, but have two valve discs. Thus a very compact, and simple but effective, control function is achieved.
The wax product used within the thermostat requires a specific process to produce. Unlike a standard paraffin wax, which has a relatively wide range of carbon chain lengths, a wax used in the thermostat application has a very narrow range of carbon molecule chains. The extent of the chains is usually determined by the melting characteristics demanded by the specific end application. To manufacture a product in this manner requires very precise levels of distillation, which is difficult or impossible for most wax refineries."
LiveEj6
New Member
It is quite easy to replace the thermostat, like R3dline5.0 explained make sure to get all the old gasket off before applying the new one. sometimes they stick.use some break part cleaner on a rag or shop towel to clean off both sides where the gasket will go. tighten bolts to specified torque(you can find in Haynes/ Chilton's manual they sell at most auto stores). the gasket is $4 and the thermostat is $9-$14. to flush your coolant there is a valve at the bottom of your radiator, drain, refill as steps above(R3dline5.0).
upnsmoke
New Member
Sometimes you can tell if a thermostat is bad by letting the engine run till the coolant gets to normal operating temperature and laying a hand on the upper radiator hose, the one that goes into the thermostat housing. If the thermostat does not open, which will cause overheating, that hose may not get entirely hot, or may be almost cool. If it does get hot, it does not necessarily mean the stat is good, but if it does not get hot, I would get a new one. Be sure and check the new one if you buy one. I have seen a couple bad ones before, new out of the box. Put a pot of water on the stove and use a thermometer to get it around the temp the thermostat is supposed to open at. Drop it in and you will see it open if it works. Can save you the trouble of doing the job twice.
The thermostat regulates the coolant pumping to the radiator, which regulates the temperature of the coolant in the entire engine. you should not ever run without one. replace it, and you will probably fix your problem. bumping for help when you can't seem to help yourself will not stop your car from overheating.
upnsmoke
New Member
Handlebars, you are correct, without a thermostat you will have too much coolant flowing too fast and not get the heat transfer that you should. If you don't overheat, you may get hotspots in parts of your block or head, I have heard of cracked heads caused by this. In my endeavors with 2.3 turbo fords, I ran across some circle track guys not running thermostats, but they were running restrictors in the thermostat housing to make the coolant flow similar to what it would be with a thermostat, or at least what they found worked best. BboyZr0, one step at a time. Like Handlebars says, replace the thermostat, it is the simplest and most likely fix for your problem, and if that doesn't do it, try something else after.
BboyZr0
New Member
the bottom hose is the one going into the thermostat housing for my car? haha. but yeah ill give that a try.
BboyZr0
New Member
haha. im fairly new to all this. still learning. i know some, i dont know some. i just need some input but thanks yo!
upnsmoke
New Member
Shows what I know. Same difference though.
BboyZr0
New Member
haha. yeah. do you know how much a thermostat is if you buy straight from honda dealership? or anybody know?Shows what I know. Same difference though.
This simple question can be answered by making a phone call or visiting the website of a Honda dealershi, or any number of parts stores in your area. You should try that first.
BboyZr0
New Member
read in a forum that theyre actually not. autozone or any of them auto part stores' thermostat is garbage compared to the ones you get straight from honda. they also work way better too but i heared they might be a little pricey.