HELP! Replaced dizzy, car won't start.

[TokyoSkies]

Alright, guys. Here's my problem. Hopefully someone has run into this issue before:
My dizzy was going out (CKP sensor) on my 97 Civic EX (d16y8), so I bought a brand new one from buyautoparts.com. It arrived fine, I installed it, and the car cranks, but does not turn over. I triple checked the firing order (1-3-4-2) and figured I had a bad coil right out of the box. I replaced it with the previous working dizzy, and same thing. The car cranks, but does not turn over. I smell fuel in the fuel rail, so I know it's getting fuel. Not really sure of a safe way to check spark (I'm not that much of a mechanic, and not at all good with electrical stuff admittedly ). My questions are: do you guys think that the coil may have gone in BOTH dizzies (hard to believe honestly), or am I over-looking something small? Also, how can I check for spark?
Thanks in advance.

P.S. I know there was a previous thread in regards to this, and they stated the coil, but I wanted to make sure.

 

[TokyoSkies]

Bumping with update.

Had my buddies come over, checked TDC and aligned distributor. Everything checks out, still won't turn. Checked for spark and fuel, all is looking good, but yet, STILL won't turn over. We bolted everything back on, tried to push start it, and still won't start.

 

[2slo4u]

fuses good?

 

[JohnS.]

Have you tested the ignition coil and control module? Could be a bad distributor from the start.

 

[sohclubkid]

Im having simular issues... Fuel is good, but no spark. Bump for the OP

 

[TokyoSkies]

Have you tested the ignition coil and control module? Could be a bad distributor from the start.

Ignition coil is inside the distributor, correct? If so, I'd say it's good, cause I'm getting spark. The other reason I'm confused, is the old distributor worked perfectly fine before I bolted it off. Both dizzies are getting spark, timing is on (TDC, dizzy is lined up to number 1 cylinder). We reset the battery, and now it's throwing a CEL. My buddy is coming over with his port scanner, so we're gonna scan, and try to figure it out from there. Will keep you guys updated. Thank you all for your suggestions!
Oh, also, yes checked all fuses (relays etc.). Had one blown 40a option fuse under the hood. Replaced, did nothing. Checked all fuses/relays on the interior fuse box as well, all are good.

 

[TokyoSkies]

Another update:
So the metal prong on the distributor that goes into the block was cracked on the new dizzy (just saw this today). We put the old dizzy back on, and I had my buddy adjust the dizzy while I cranked it over. We heard a loud POOF, and smoke came out of the intake manifold. At this point, I about s*** myself, and we took the intake box off and checked everything out. It looks like there was a bit of fuel in the intake manifold, and it ignited and blew stuff outta the intake. Everything appears good, and for some reason, the car is making a very subtle attempt to turn over now (it sputters a little bit when giving it gas, and sounds like it wants to start, but doesn't).

 

[RonJ]

1) Buy a new OEM distributor - expensive but worth the money.

2) Click spark link in my signature to learn how to check for spark, which should be bright white.

3) Pull the CEL codes, then reset the ECU to see whether the same codes return after cranking the engine for 30 seconds. Click the CEL link in my signature to learn how to pull CEL codes at home without a scanner.

4) The CEL code itself does not necessarily tell you what to replace. For example, code 4 for the CKP sensor could mean a bad CKP sensor, bad wire, or bad ECU.

 

[TokyoSkies]

1) Buy a new OEM distributor - expensive but worth the money.

2) Click spark link in my signature to learn how to check for spark, which should be bright white.

3) Pull the CEL codes, then reset the ECU to see whether the same codes return after cranking the engine for 30 seconds. Click the CEL link in my signature to learn how to pull CEL codes at home without a scanner.

4) The CEL code itself does not necessarily tell you what to replace. For example, code 4 for the CKP sensor could mean a bad CKP sensor, bad wire, or bad ECU.

OEM distributor is indeed next. The dizzy I ordered is a huge piece of s**t.
I know how to check spark now, thank goodness lol.
CEL codes are cleared. It was giving me a CEL in regards to CKP in dizzy. Tested with a known good ECU from a buddy, didn't make a difference. Replaced Spark plug wires as well.

 

[TokyoSkies]

Finally got the car fixed!
So apparently, at some point, the timing belt jumped several teeth (never thought to check it, cause the car was stationary the entire time). Lined everything up 100%, and after a bit of sputtering/coughing, it fired up. The car runs way better than it has since I bought it. Apparently, the timing being off was the root of all my issues (sputting/sluggish acceleration), as it's running amazing. Going to drive for 90 miles so the ecu can properly assess everything, then take her to smog. Thank you guys for your help! I really appreciate the people on this forum!

 

[alex_n/a]

glad we could help.....