Gotta problem

[Tre Jones]

Ok so most of the time my car rides just fine, but every now and then I'll be just driving normal in basically any gear and ill be at low rpms just driving but every now and then when i try to accelerate theres no power at all and this really fast clicking noise and then after like a second or two it hits. Remember it only happens while im driving, not from a stop. Any idea whats going on? Please ask if you need clarification because it's kind of hard to explain. Thanks guys

 

[Decipher]

please clarify.

Is the "clicking" noise consistant with the frequency of revolutions of the motor (rpms)? I'm assuming the noise is coming from engine bay?

When you say " when i try to accelerate theres no power at all" do you mean that the rpms climb, but no power is making it to the wheels, or you push the pedal and the motor bogs and doesn't respond?

 

[R3dline]

yah, need a lil more info on the problem, maybe do a video and post it up for us.

 

[JohnS.]

Need way more information... When does it occur? When the engine is cold or warmed up? Only at low RPM? Never at high? Does the car shake at all? What happens if you hold the throttle down completely? Does it only last a few seconds?

These vague posts in threads asking for help are hard to actually help because the OP's aren't willing to take an extra minute to give more information.....

 

[Hecz]

Ok so most of the time my car rides just fine, but every now and then I'll be just driving normal in basically any gear and ill be at low rpms just driving but every now and then when i try to accelerate theres no power at all and this really fast clicking noise and then after like a second or two it hits. Remember it only happens while im driving, not from a stop. Any idea whats going on? Please ask if you need clarification because it's kind of hard to explain. Thanks guys

Distributor is going bad.

 

[Tre Jones]

please clarify.

Is the "clicking" noise consistant with the frequency of revolutions of the motor (rpms)? I'm assuming the noise is coming from engine bay?

When you say " when i try to accelerate theres no power at all" do you mean that the rpms climb, but no power is making it to the wheels, or you push the pedal and the motor bogs and doesn't respond?

I'm not sure if the clicking noise is consistent with the frerquency of the rpms.. but the noise is coming from the engine bay. And the rpms dont climb at all theres no power at all it just fast clicking but after like a second it will go

 

[Tre Jones]

Need way more information... When does it occur? When the engine is cold or warmed up? Only at low RPM? Never at high? Does the car shake at all? What happens if you hold the throttle down completely? Does it only last a few seconds?

These vague posts in threads asking for help are hard to actually help because the OP's aren't willing to take an extra minute to give more information.....

It happens when cold and warm. I toccurs when im hard on the throttle and all the way on. Car doesn't shake. I'll have to check if it does it at high rpms...It doesn't do it often I just want to make sure it doesn't turn into a bigger problem

 

[95CTR]

im with Hecz, from the detail given so far, sounds like the distributor is going out.

 

[JohnS.]

Distributor could very well be going bad. How long has it been since you've last done a tune-up or changed the dizzy rotor/cap?

I had similar problems not too long ago and it ended up being a bad distributor rotor and cap. About 1/3 of the inside of the dizzy cap was covered in the white/blue-ish stuff you see that builds up around battery terminals.

 

[Tre Jones]

Thanks I'll check it out

 

[95CTR]

Distributor could very well be going bad. How long has it been since you've last done a tune-up or changed the dizzy rotor/cap?

I had similar problems not too long ago and it ended up being a bad distributor rotor and cap. About 1/3 of the inside of the dizzy cap was covered in the white/blue-ish stuff you see that builds up around battery terminals.

idk how yo uare about keeping recipts but if that ever happens again take them off and return them ad bad parts, because that corrosion comes from the gap being to far for the built up voltage to jump so it discharges poorly

 

[Tre Jones]

idk how yo uare about keeping recipts but if that ever happens again take them off and return them ad bad parts, because that corrosion comes from the gap being to far for the built up voltage to jump so it discharges poorly

Ok I will...I bought the car a couple months ago so I haven't really done anything with it

 

[95CTR]

lol yeah sry that post was directed to john, but it could aply to you too once you do a tune up, if you end up with the same problem he discribed lol

but that would be my best guess would be to start with the cap and rotor, see what that does, also if you know how to do it, check your ignition timing, (and your cam timing if you know how.)

 

[Tre Jones]

ha oops ok ill check out the distributor thats all i know how to do for now

 

[JohnS.]

idk how yo uare about keeping recipts but if that ever happens again take them off and return them ad bad parts, because that corrosion comes from the gap being to far for the built up voltage to jump so it discharges poorly

I had over 50k miles on the rotor/cap lol. I was way overdue for a tune-up.

If you change the rotor/cap, generally you should do the wires/plugs at the same time too. At least from what I've read / been told.