New to site/Check Engine Problem

[MLC]

I'm new here, so I apologize if this is in the wrong section. I previously posted on a different forum, but I hadn't noticed that I posted in 8th generation, rather than 5th. (Different website)

I've been having issues with my 92 Honda Civic LX. It started about a year ago (I know -_-) and didn't do anything about it. I didn't think it was much of a problem. Yesterday, I replaced both back tires which were cupped and also had an alignment done. Also replaced the battery. I've been having a check engine light issue for a year and had asked the tech how much it would cost to have my light diagnosed. 85$. Went to Auto Zone, can't help because my car isn't 96 or newer. Called a smog place, 65$. I have a friend that also has the same year/car and he does his own diagnostics at home through the jumper, but I was told no one will touch my car, because there's a chance my harness (?) could be fried. So, therefore, it looks as if I have to pull more money out of my pocket for this car.

The car has only been owned by one other person. When I first bought it, there were no issues with it. Only this last year. I was told that my distributor needs to be replaced because of the noises coming from it. Family friend told me that maybe a cap/rotar would help the noise. Didn't work. I haven't had any work on the car besides normal stuff. No fuel filter replacements, O2 sensor, etc;

Back to the check engine - My car will be just fine while I'm driving. Sounds normal, works perfectly. Once I'm in idle (MOST of the time), my RPM's will lower just a little bit. Around 1 (I'm female so not very auto experienced/educated) Once it goes from 1, it'll go to about half of 1 and 0, back to 1, then back towards 0. When it does this, my check engine light will come on. When the light comes on, it'll bog down. I'll press the gas pedal and sounds like something is clogged. It won't go over 3RPM without sounding terrible. I don't know how to explain it.. Anyway, once the light does come on, not only does it bog down, but the distributor DOES get louder. Doesn't sound loud at all unless the light is on. I'll restart my car.. and it's gone. If I'm at a light, I'll put it in neutral, restart, go into drive and leave. But, If I'm there for any longer, it'll do it again.

I can't find ANYONE that knows anything about these symptoms. I'm so fed up with handing out money for auto parts to replace things and nothing gets fixed. I'm also tired of not being able to find someone that doesn't want me to pay a large amount of money just to give me a code so I can get this fixed. I know people are going to respond with.. GO GET A DIAGNOSTIC - But I wanted to ask the question in hopes of maybe someone has had a similar problem. This BS has been giving me a headache all day.

-Michelle

 

[lowandslowek]

I have a feeling that your gonna have to get the code.. before anyone can help but if your lucky someone might be able to help with out it....

 

[spooned209]

Ron may post here very soon he is very helpful and has a link in his signature that can show u how to pull the code yourself with out forking out the money to get it done

 

[Hecz]

The car has only been owned by one other person. When I first bought it, there were no issues with it. Only this last year. I was told that my distributor needs to be replaced because of the noises coming from it. Family friend told me that maybe a cap/rotar would help the noise. Didn't work. I haven't had any work on the car besides normal stuff. No fuel filter replacements, O2 sensor, etc;

There's a bearing in there that sometimes goes bad. once it goes bad, you will hear a loud screeching noise.

Note that the CEL information described below applies to OBD1 92-95 Civics and Del Sols and OBD2 96-00 Civics and Del Sols.

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1901557

Back to the check engine - My car will be just fine while I'm driving. Sounds normal, works perfectly. Once I'm in idle (MOST of the time), my RPM's will lower just a little bit. Around 1 (I'm female so not very auto experienced/educated) Once it goes from 1, it'll go to about half of 1 and 0, back to 1, then back towards 0. When it does this, my check engine light will come on. When the light comes on, it'll bog down. I'll press the gas pedal and sounds like something is clogged. It won't go over 3RPM without sounding terrible. I don't know how to explain it.. Anyway, once the light does come on, not only does it bog down, but the distributor DOES get louder. Doesn't sound loud at all unless the light is on. I'll restart my car.. and it's gone. If I'm at a light, I'll put it in neutral, restart, go into drive and leave. But, If I'm there for any longer, it'll do it again.

Im going to jump to the conclusion that the problem is in the Distributor.

Check out this video by Erick The Car Guy. He's entertaining and knowledable. In this video he replaces a distrubutor that is starting to screem.

[YOUTUBE="."]T0gd3V9QLhw[/YOUTUBE]

 

[MLC]

There's a bearing in there that sometimes goes bad. once it goes bad, you will hear a loud screeching noise.

Note that the CEL information described below applies to OBD1 92-95 Civics and Del Sols and OBD2 96-00 Civics and Del Sols.

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1901557



Im going to jump to the conclusion that the problem is in the Distributor.

Yeah, that's what we're thinking is the problem. That's the exact noise we're hearing. Could this cause the light to come on? We're starting off with the smaller problems first, then working on the bigger ones.

 

[MLC]

There's a bearing in there that sometimes goes bad. once it goes bad, you will hear a loud screeching noise.

Note that the CEL information described below applies to OBD1 92-95 Civics and Del Sols and OBD2 96-00 Civics and Del Sols.

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1901557





Im going to jump to the conclusion that the problem is in the Distributor.

Check out this video by Erick The Car Guy. He's entertaining and knowledable. In this video he replaces a distrubutor that is starting to screem.

[YOUTUBE="."]T0gd3V9QLhw[/YOUTUBE]

Will check out the video. Thank you!

 

[Hecz]

Yeah, that's what we're thinking is the problem. That's the exact noise we're hearing. Could this cause the light to come on? We're starting off with the smaller problems first, then working on the bigger ones.

No, A bad bearing or bushing will not cause the check engine light to come one. Its only triggered by electrical components like circuitry and sensors.

Ugh, i gota look for my notes. i did the reasearch and replacement myself when this happened to my car. That bogging noise you're describing sounds like a Subaru car.

 

[RonJ]

I have a feeling that your gonna have to get the code.. before anyone can help but if your lucky someone might be able to help with out it....

This^

Click the CEL link in my signature. With a small piece of wire or a paperclip, you can easily pull the CEL code yourself. When you do, please PayPal the $85 to me.

After you pull the code, then reset the ECU to clear all codes (see CEL link). Then drive the car again until the CEL turns on, and then pull the code. This step is to ensure that the same code(s) repeat. If so, post any repeating code in this thread.

And how do you know the noise is coming from the distributor? Is this proven or just a guess?

 

[Hecz]

Yeah, that's what we're thinking is the problem. That's the exact noise we're hearing. Could this cause the light to come on? We're starting off with the smaller problems first, then working on the bigger ones.

More importantly, you need to find out what code that is.
In my case, the check engine light didn't even go on. I was told by a friend(UTI grad) who also owned and love working on Civics that.. IF the ignition coil is bad, it will not trigger a code. Your case is a little easier because you have a CEL on.

 

[MLC]

This^

Click the CEL link in my signature. With a small piece of wire or a paperclip, you can easily pull the CEL code yourself. When you do, please PayPal the $85 to me.

After you pull the code, then reset the ECU to clear all codes (see CEL link). Then drive the car again until the CEL turns on, and then pull the code. This step is to ensure that the same code(s) repeat. If so, post any repeating code in this thread.

And how do you know the noise is coming from the distributor? Is this proven or just a guess?

From my understanding, when I took it to the shop to have the check engine diagnosis, he checked my battery to see if the alternator was powering okay. Then, he noticed the noise coming from the distributor. When he grabbed ahold of it tightly, it wouldn't be so loud, but then when he released, it was louder. Went to another shop this morning and was told the same thing. This is what it sounds like..

http://youtu.be/UNnhspRtMVs

As far as the instructions you gave me, I'll start with that.

 

[RonJ]

From my understanding, when I took it to the shop to have the check engine diagnosis, he checked my battery to see if the alternator was powering okay. Then, he noticed the noise coming from the distributor. When he grabbed ahold of it tightly, it wouldn't be so loud, but then when he released, it was louder. Went to another shop this morning and was told the same thing. This is what it sounds like..

http://youtu.be/UNnhspRtMVs

As far as the instructions you gave me, I'll start with that.

If the noise definitely comes from the distributor, then replace it. This generally means the distributor bearing is toast. Often, when the bearing goes bad, you'll see red dust inside the distributor. Have you seen this?

If you need to replace the distributor, ONLY BUY AN OEM ONE. It costs more, but our Civics choke on aftermarket distributors.

 

[MLC]

If the noise definitely comes from the distributor, then replace it. This generally means the distributor bearing is toast. Often, when the bearing goes bad, you'll see red dust inside the distributor. Have you seen this?

If you need to replace the distributor, ONLY BUY AN OEM ONE. It costs more, but our Civics choke on aftermarket distributors.

Hold that thought.. Got a family member coming over to check the light and the distributor. I'll post the info once he's finished and ask him if he sees any type of red dust inside.

 

[MLC]

Eh. He came over, looked around. Car is too old to plug in, didn't know anything about going through the kick panel. Said sorry then left. 3rd person I've been told that they don't feel comfortable or know anything of checking codes because it's older. One says it could fry the harness, other said he didn't know anything about it.

 

[Hecz]

Eh. He came over, looked around. Car is too old to plug in, didn't know anything about going through the kick panel. Said sorry then left. 3rd person I've been told that they don't feel comfortable or know anything of checking codes because it's older. One says it could fry the harness, other said he didn't know anything about it.

aw, its so easy to pull the codes. Take action girl!

lol@i do not know ANYthing about it.

Do you have any pape clips laying around?

 

[young_]

Eh. He came over, looked around. Car is too old to plug in, didn't know anything about going through the kick panel. Said sorry then left. 3rd person I've been told that they don't feel comfortable or know anything of checking codes because it's older. One says it could fry the harness, other said he didn't know anything about it.

You must have missed the following post.

Click the CEL link in my signature. With a small piece of wire or a paperclip, you can easily pull the CEL code yourself. When you do, please PayPal the $85 to me.

After you pull the code, then reset the ECU to clear all codes (see CEL link). Then drive the car again until the CEL turns on, and then pull the code. This step is to ensure that the same code(s) repeat. If so, post any repeating code in this thread.

 

[RonJ]

Ignore what everyone tells you. They don't have any clue how easy it is to pull CEL codes on your car. READ THE INFO AT THE CEL LINK. You can do this yourself. If you have any specific questions, just ask us. If you are unwilling to do this easy task, then pay a mechanic his expensive fee because we're wasting our time trying to help you.

 

[MLC]

You must have missed the following post.

I'm sorry, I didn't miss anything. I'm afraid of anything electrical and anything that is in regards to cars, especially when I know nothing about them, even IF I have instructions.

I will do what I can. Thank you.

 

[Hecz]

Make sure you have a full tummy tho. man.. you do not want to do any sort of diagnosing on an empty stomach.

 

[MLC]

Ignore what everyone tells you. They don't have any clue how easy it is to pull CEL codes on your car. READ THE INFO AT THE CEL LINK. You can do this yourself. If you have any specific questions, just ask us. If you are unwilling to do this easy task, then pay a mechanic his expensive fee because we're wasting our time trying to help you.

I'm not trying to mock anyone of their advice. I apologize if it seems that way. I will look at the instructions again and do exactly what it says. Thank you all for your advice and if anything comes back that I don't know what it's about, I will come back here and post the question. If I don't feel comfortable pulling the codes myself, I will ask someone else to do it with the instructions you have given, then give them to the proper person that feels comfortable. Again, thank you.

 

[RonJ]

I'm not trying to mock anyone of their advice. I apologize if it seems that way. I will look at the instructions again and do exactly what it says. Thank you all for your advice and if anything comes back that I don't know what it's about, I will come back here and post the question. If I don't feel comfortable pulling the codes myself, I will ask someone else to do it with the instructions you have given, then give them to the proper person that feels comfortable. Again, thank you.

I don't feel mocked or insulted by you. I sense a helpless person who fears doing something new. Break out and take a risk. There's absolutely NO risk of electrical shock or damage if you follow the instructions at the link. Again, if you have any questions, just post them. You need to remove the passenger side kick panel and locate the service connector above the ECU. The connector may be plugged into a blue or green rubber holder. Post pictures if necessary.