No- there's not enough stud to hold on to. The end of the stud is nearly flush with the castle part of the nut.can you get a big pair of vice grips on the ball joint stud and turn the nut while holding the stud .
When I went to do it I realized I didn't understand... It seems that using the puller would press the arm towards the nut and away from the ball joint, so it seemed like it would make it MORE likely to spin. Meanwhile I saw on the internet a lot of talk about jacking the arm up so that it is pushing against the ball joint and away from the nut, so I thought I'd try that.Did the suggestions we talked about not work it for you?
Does sound like a pain; I didn't realize the bolts would need replacing. What about the nut splitter; would that work on a flange nut in a tight spot like this?Unbolting the lca WOULD work, but it'd be really awkward to work with, and the big bolts you're referring to (they're 17s if I remember correctly) would need to be replaced with new ones.
Good to know. I just can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. I double checked the service manual, saw a youtube vid of someone doing it... it seems like I'm doing it right. I keep hoping I'll have that ah-ha moment when I figure out what I didn't get, but no luck so far.Oh, as far as the axle not popping out, you must be doing something wrong, they don't take a whole lot of force to separate, and they don't need to be in any position, it's just a little clip...
Yeah, modern technology has drawbacks as well as advantages! I certainly appreaciate your help despite the techno snags.(I miss my "real" internet
Thanks- I may have to try that. Any chance this will damage the AC mount bolt? Also, I need a way to keep the engine from tipping over as it is already removed from the car. Do you suppose I could take two more tranny bolts and mount a long wooden board onto it?Take one of the tranny to engine bolts, and thread it into the block. Don't torque it down or anything, just snug it up. Then, take one of the A/C mounting bolts, and hold it up to the teeth on the flywheel so that when you start to turn the flywheel bolts, the A/C bolt head hits the tranny to engine bolt. Once it makes contact, you can let go, the force of loosening the flywheel bolts will hold it there.
(Back at it after some weeks off from this project...)I've been doing it this way for years, I've yet to damage the A/C bolt. I don't see any reason why you couldn't bolt a board to it, but, you'd be quicker to just straddle the block, and kind-of diy on the valve cover.
That's a lot, especially given that the bolt that works just as well comes free with the car!the gear tooth holder you mentioned (and featured in our manuals) was pretty damned expensive when I checked with a local dealership. they had to look it up, and I think quoted around $80-$100?
Yeah I heard they can be pretty impossible- I guess I got lucky! (I just wish I could have been as lucky on the engine I bought...)And congrats on the fltywheel removal. First time I tried, used my dad's brand new 12 point Snapon socket and 1/2 impact.