stevelom29
New Member
That's the head gasket right
coolant in oil
- Thread starter stevelom29
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stevelom29
New Member
Thanks I was just making sure
Really valve seals getting oil in coolant? I mean anythings possible, and definitely change them while the heads off, but if valve seals are dumpin oil down past the open valves into the combustion chamber and somehow getting into the coolant without the head gasket being blown thats pretty impressive. Anyway OP 99% chance it's the head gasket. Run a leak down test or just go for it and change the gasket.
I think you're thinking about this the wrong way. Not oil getting in coolant, coolant getting in oil which is absolutely possible from faulty valve seals. Depending on where the break is in the HG, it'll go from the chamber up through the seals and into the valve cover making it look like a milky mess. I had a B18 that was pretty severe a few months back. Found 2 VS's with the tops completely torn off.Really valve seals getting oil in coolant? I mean anythings possible, and definitely change them while the heads off, but if valve seals are dumpin oil down past the open valves into the combustion chamber and somehow getting into the coolant without the head gasket being blown thats pretty impressive. Anyway OP 99% chance it's the head gasket. Run a leak down test or just go for it and change the gasket.
Valves should not be in contact with coolant... am I wrong here?I think you're thinking about this the wrong way. Not oil getting in coolant, coolant getting in oil which is absolutely possible from faulty valve seals.
No, they shouldn't. Depending on where the break is in the HG, coolant can get into the chamber and up through the valves/seals into the valve cover. It's not uncommon on high milage motors that have never had a gasket replacement... Well, I should say not uncommon after you over heat your motor and blow the HG and your VS's are already old and worn down.Valves should not be in contact with coolant... am I wrong here?
i disagree that valve seals would be the issue. and oil runs down the valve seals, not up them. the headgasket has to blow so the coolant that gets into the combustion chamber could run down past the piston rings and be pumped up to the head and down that way though. i think some of us may be misunderstanding what you are saying though, because the headgasket definitely has to go for this
its definitely a headgasket, but make sure you get a head gasket kit, and not just a headgasket
its definitely a headgasket, but make sure you get a head gasket kit, and not just a headgasket
As I stated (In a round about way), the valve seals can not be the sole cause. The HG must already be bad. If the HG is blown, oil/coolant can end up lots of places it shouldn't going in directions fluids shouldn't. We can all agree on this i'm sure.i disagree that valve seals would be the issue. and oil runs down the valve seals, not up them. the headgasket has to blow so the coolant that gets into the combustion chamber could run down past the piston rings and be pumped up to the head and down that way though. i think some of us may be misunderstanding what you are saying though, because the headgasket definitely has to go for this
its definitely a headgasket, but make sure you get a head gasket kit, and not just a headgasket
Simple fix. Buy HG kit, replace everything that is included in the kit. / thread (yeah?)
ok, what i first read it seemed like you were saying that the valve seals were the cause of the issue. i had to read it a few times to get it rightAs I stated (In a round about way), the valve seals can not be the sole cause. The HG must already be bad. If the HG is blown, oil/coolant can end up lots of places it shouldn't going in directions fluids shouldn't. We can all agree on this i'm sure.
Simple fix. Buy HG kit, replace everything that is included in the kit. / thread (yeah?)
stevelom29
New Member
I'm getting the whole kit so I just do it all
stevelom29
New Member
Head is warped I got a new one how do I set the timing on it
Warped head? Impressive! Set the cylinder closest to the crank pulley (#1) to top dead center (TDC). Make a mark on the pulley or engine some place so you know where it is for future reference (I've found this is best for a quick glance once everything is on and in place just for piece of mind and if you ever run into what you think may be timing issues. For example, all of my crank pulleys (That i've had to take off) have red finger polish on them for timing marks. Easier to see than looking for an engine plastic mark that may or may not even be there.
Next, with the Dizzy off, set your cam/s pulley to TDC by looking for the marks here as well. The pulley marks should be easy to see. Some engines do not use the "UP" mark on the cam pulley so be carefull of that. For example, the D16A6 uses the 7o'clock mark on the cam pulley to set TDC which makes the "up mark" point more towards 11 and will screw your timing up. Made that mistake once. Then put your dizzy on and make sure the marks on it are lined up. Those are easy to see and pretty obvious.
Now that your head and block are set, put your belt on and make sure nothing moves. It's easier said than done but there is lots of write ups on this so i'm not going to explain it. Now rotate your crank a few teeth counter clockwise to pull the slack out and tighten up the belt tensioner. Rotating the belt just a couple teeth to pull out the slack after you've set timing will not hurt anything. Be sure your tensioner is TIGHT too. A few times what I thought was tight, wasn't tight enough and timing slipped right away. You'll know you've done it correctly if it fires up the first time, let it run for a minute, shut it off, then turn it on again and it fires up right away again.
... that should be it for timing. FYI, if you have the head on already before you set the #1 cyl, you'll need to stick something in the spark plug hole to see where the tallest point of the cyl is. I use a super long ratchet extension. Works every time and timing is always dead on.
Good luck man
Next, with the Dizzy off, set your cam/s pulley to TDC by looking for the marks here as well. The pulley marks should be easy to see. Some engines do not use the "UP" mark on the cam pulley so be carefull of that. For example, the D16A6 uses the 7o'clock mark on the cam pulley to set TDC which makes the "up mark" point more towards 11 and will screw your timing up. Made that mistake once. Then put your dizzy on and make sure the marks on it are lined up. Those are easy to see and pretty obvious.
Now that your head and block are set, put your belt on and make sure nothing moves. It's easier said than done but there is lots of write ups on this so i'm not going to explain it. Now rotate your crank a few teeth counter clockwise to pull the slack out and tighten up the belt tensioner. Rotating the belt just a couple teeth to pull out the slack after you've set timing will not hurt anything. Be sure your tensioner is TIGHT too. A few times what I thought was tight, wasn't tight enough and timing slipped right away. You'll know you've done it correctly if it fires up the first time, let it run for a minute, shut it off, then turn it on again and it fires up right away again.
... that should be it for timing. FYI, if you have the head on already before you set the #1 cyl, you'll need to stick something in the spark plug hole to see where the tallest point of the cyl is. I use a super long ratchet extension. Works every time and timing is always dead on.
Good luck man
stevelom29
New Member
How do I set the new head top dead center if it's already off the block
Just bolt it on and do it. No point in doing it off the block. But in theory it would be done in the same way I just told you. Rotate the cam pulley so it (the head) lines up with the marks on the pulley. You'll see a few lines that line up with the top of the head, probably something that's supposed to be pointed up, and possibly another mark that will make sense once the plastics and head are mounted correctly.