Milano red EJ1 w/ b16a2 swap, auto to manual conversion, plus extras!
- Thread starter AlaskaB16
- Start date
weird, man. I assume the key turned prior to the swap, right? Sorry it might sound kinda stupid, but I don't remember if it actually ran prior to pulling the old d series.
Wish I had some suggestions, but I got nothin. Good idea starting that help thread
Wish I had some suggestions, but I got nothin. Good idea starting that help thread
So... Here's my last few hours.
As you may have read in my help thread, I did everything I could to figure out why the wheel was locked and how to unlock it but found no solutions. So... I drilled it out. Took about 10 seconds and the wheel was free. You can see the spring coming out of the hole I drilled. That's what holds the wheel lock. Soon as the spring fell out with a 3/8 drill bit, the lock came right loose.
But after dropping the ignition, I STILL couldn't turn the key!
So... I found someone selling a complete 96 integra column w/ ignition for $20 a few miles down the road.
Dremel cuts in the threaded bolts so you can turn them out and drop the ignition. The way the manual tells you to do this is so freakn' dumb! There method would take hours. This took all of 5 minutes and I didn't have to remove ANYTHING from the car steering column except the plastic directly around the ignition.
Then you pop the little key lock plunger out and TADA!!! Once you pop that little white cover off pictured just under that plunger piece, that little gold box deal just comes loose and the plunger comes right out. I guess this thing holds your key in because of the swap (or something). LOL.. I figured I better do it since apparently it's very annoying to pull your battery negative so you can release your key every time. haha
So.. I popped the Integra ingnition in. It was only just slightly different on one connector which I didn't bother to hook up. Worked like a champ! I need to figure out what that little plug does that I left hanging but the car runs! Fires right up on the first turn but sounds like the idle still needs to be sorted out. I'M SO PUMPED RIGHT NOW!
As you may have read in my help thread, I did everything I could to figure out why the wheel was locked and how to unlock it but found no solutions. So... I drilled it out. Took about 10 seconds and the wheel was free. You can see the spring coming out of the hole I drilled. That's what holds the wheel lock. Soon as the spring fell out with a 3/8 drill bit, the lock came right loose.
But after dropping the ignition, I STILL couldn't turn the key!
So... I found someone selling a complete 96 integra column w/ ignition for $20 a few miles down the road.
Dremel cuts in the threaded bolts so you can turn them out and drop the ignition. The way the manual tells you to do this is so freakn' dumb! There method would take hours. This took all of 5 minutes and I didn't have to remove ANYTHING from the car steering column except the plastic directly around the ignition.
Then you pop the little key lock plunger out and TADA!!! Once you pop that little white cover off pictured just under that plunger piece, that little gold box deal just comes loose and the plunger comes right out. I guess this thing holds your key in because of the swap (or something). LOL.. I figured I better do it since apparently it's very annoying to pull your battery negative so you can release your key every time. haha
So.. I popped the Integra ingnition in. It was only just slightly different on one connector which I didn't bother to hook up. Worked like a champ! I need to figure out what that little plug does that I left hanging but the car runs! Fires right up on the first turn but sounds like the idle still needs to be sorted out. I'M SO PUMPED RIGHT NOW!
congrats! And I know this sound's like ANOTHER stupid question, but with all the Hondas ya got around, you didn't try using the wrong key, did you? Guess it doesn't matter, since you got it started. Again, congrats!
Funny you mention that. Just as I was about to drill out the lock, I thought I at least better try every honda key I have. So... One by one I went through about 15 keys. But, nope. Nothing worked. I would have killed someone had I used the wrong key LOL! Ripped apart everything AND THEN try different keys. I was tired but hey, at least no key I had worked so.. Someone is still alive thankfully. hahah..
... Now I need a new base map though. I'm having fuel cut issues I think is map related. Started a new thread in the tuning section. Hopefully someone can help me out.
So who's the biggest dumb ass on the planet? ME! 
When I initially traded for this car, the person I bought it from explained that he blocked off the port on the BLOX intake runner because the "forum people said he didn't need it". So when I put this harness on, I had a connector that could have gone there, but because "I didn't need it", I assumed everything would be AOK if I let it flap in the wind. What happens when you assume? Turns out the connector was for IAT. On the 99 si, that sensor was relocated to the intake tube as I had read before and even book marked about a month ago but had totally forgot about it.
So, I have just made a little extension harness with an OBD2 connector on it (still needs to be cut to length) to rout to my loose connector (which currently has a plug for an OBD1 IAT). My local parts store has an OBD1 IAT sensor in stock for $50 but I figured why spend the $$ when I have a perfectly good/worthless OBD2 99 si harness laying around with an IAT already connected to it? LOL
To further show how lame I am this week, i'm trying to sort out my tune issues and why i'm falling flat around 3500 RPM's. As i'm going through my printed material from a month previous to prepare for this swap, I come across the "how to wire in VTEC/Knock sensor". I think, wait a minute... I didn't do that because I thought my 01 GSR harness would take care of that. As I read more into it, turns out it's the car side of the harness that needs to be modified, not the harness I have. I'M SO DUMB! My freaking car is in limp mode because I don't have VTEC or a knock sensor wired in (so I read from others who did this before me) which my current B16a map is looking for.
ARGH!! Oh well, i'll never make that mistake again right? LOL
When I initially traded for this car, the person I bought it from explained that he blocked off the port on the BLOX intake runner because the "forum people said he didn't need it". So when I put this harness on, I had a connector that could have gone there, but because "I didn't need it", I assumed everything would be AOK if I let it flap in the wind. What happens when you assume? Turns out the connector was for IAT. On the 99 si, that sensor was relocated to the intake tube as I had read before and even book marked about a month ago but had totally forgot about it.
So, I have just made a little extension harness with an OBD2 connector on it (still needs to be cut to length) to rout to my loose connector (which currently has a plug for an OBD1 IAT). My local parts store has an OBD1 IAT sensor in stock for $50 but I figured why spend the $$ when I have a perfectly good/worthless OBD2 99 si harness laying around with an IAT already connected to it? LOL
To further show how lame I am this week, i'm trying to sort out my tune issues and why i'm falling flat around 3500 RPM's. As i'm going through my printed material from a month previous to prepare for this swap, I come across the "how to wire in VTEC/Knock sensor". I think, wait a minute... I didn't do that because I thought my 01 GSR harness would take care of that. As I read more into it, turns out it's the car side of the harness that needs to be modified, not the harness I have. I'M SO DUMB! My freaking car is in limp mode because I don't have VTEC or a knock sensor wired in (so I read from others who did this before me) which my current B16a map is looking for.
ARGH!! Oh well, i'll never make that mistake again right? LOL
Oh, I also made this cool little PNP connector out of the AT harness so my car always thinks it's in Park (trick the ignition after doing an AT to manual swap) and the starter will fire up. I still have the two wires loose for reverse lights.
And then here is how I tested it before hand to make sure it would work correctly.
And then here is how I tested it before hand to make sure it would work correctly.
And THEN... I had a few extra minutes this morning so I pounded out a DIY for the ignition problem I had earlier. It'd be cool if you guys checked it out and could tell me if it's written clearly or not? It was kind of early when I wrote it.
http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=216150
http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=216150
Well, from my understanding, they were discontinued due to poor sales. The Mitsus and Subbies just had the market for AWD (not in the sense of rally, more for daily use). I haven't bothered to heavily look into the AWD Wagovans, but I know they have a cult following. I have come across quite a few for like $1200 here in Southern California. They aren't THAT sought after. Too many guidos want EK's, DC's and EG'sHave you checked the market price on these?? I don't know what your version of cheap is but the only reasonable priced ones i've found are coming from people that don't understand how rare these are. I'm not looking to track (no track in the whole state), but I am looking at getting around 300hp and will be building the car to do so. And correct me if I'm wrong here, but Honda never built this to compete in the rally circuits so your comment about giving up after getting smoked by Mit/Sub puzzles me. It was built as a work horse low cost and efficient delivery vehicle of sorts. Now my history may be wrong and I apologize if it is, but unless it was getting smoked by the mitsu/Sub delivery minivans, I think Honda did pretty well making this little gem
But really, the whole point of the car from a tuner/Honda fan perspective is the theory behind it. It's not about putting down huge numbers or giving a beat down to every car you find. I've been there, done that. No matter what you drive, how much money you make, or what's under the hood, there is ALWAYS someone faster. Once you realize that, you'll look at cars/builds from a different perspective. If you look at it for what it is, A FREAKING AWD CIVIC FOR PETE SAKES, then you'll appreciate the work that will be accomplished. Take a look at a recent post from a new member here in the new member section from the NW. He posted pics of his car and links to other cars similar to it. At $5000 plus for a decent shape 92, I'd say that's not "cheap" when considering you could spend that same money on something much faster and trackable. Do I care? Nope!
BTW, my version of cheap is vehicle and condition specific. How much money I make isn't the factor. A $200 92 Civic is cheap. A $50,000 Lamborghini is cheap.... A $5000 92 Civic is not. Now "worth".... That's a different story.
I've always been curious about them. A guy that would go to the local "cruise (douche) night" had one with a b18c1 in it. It was a neat little car!
Also, your coupe is looking good! Glad to see someone actually tackle the Auto to Manual conversion. Most people give up and sell their car to get a manual vehicle!
It's the first time i've ever tried doing one. I don't see what the big deal is either honestly. Everything was plug and play except for the bolt holes were covered where the stick comes through. That you have to drill but big whoop ya know? Oh, I guess the ECU has to be modded too unless you pick up a factory manual ECU.
... still having trouble getting it out of limp mode as of this minute though. IF that's what's going on here. Hooked up my test VTEC/knock stuff and still no revs past 3500. Just shuts down to dead unless i let off the gas. Annoying! I might take the rest of the week off just to figure this out!
Not sure of this was brought uo but their was also 1 or 2 models of integras that were awd. I believe if yoi really wanted to if you could find the right integra could take the whole drive train and do a swap. Their was one with the d series and one with the b series. I did a littke bit of research but quickly gave up realizing that A it would be way out of ny price range B it was appearing to be a wild goose chase trying to find the donor integra.
I DID IT! MAN.... I DID IT! I ripped all of my hair out but I finally cleared all of the codes, reset the ECU a gazzilon times, reflashed my chip, pulled off all the connectors I could easily reach in the engine bay and sprayed them down with contact cleaner and... NO CODES, car rips it hard through all the gears! Man.. I'm so happy. BEER TIME!
WOOT!
WOOT!
Great to hear! Now go have a little fun before you sell that f***ing thing!
LOL.. I know!
Wired up reverse lights though this pic is just showing my temp install to verify this was indeed the spot they go to. (Note: If you happen to be doing an auto to manual swap, the yellow wire to the upper left of the green is NOT the reverse light yellow wire you need. What ever it is, it will keep your car running even with the key turned off and pulled out... LOL)
Here's my final of the IAT and RPM at the dizzy just to the right of that. You can see it tucked down in there.
Engine bay final photo. I will not be doing anything more in here.
Couple exterior shots as it sits on craigslist
Only thing left to do is clean up the interior, cover up the holes left where the auto stick was pulled and the manual went in, mount exhaust.. sell
Here's my final of the IAT and RPM at the dizzy just to the right of that. You can see it tucked down in there.
Engine bay final photo. I will not be doing anything more in here.
Couple exterior shots as it sits on craigslist
Only thing left to do is clean up the interior, cover up the holes left where the auto stick was pulled and the manual went in, mount exhaust.. sell
Looking good man! Nice job on the mild tuck as well!
Hey thanks! I had wanted to do more but started getting ants in the pants to get this done sooner before the snow comes. I do like the look of not having the power steering or cruise control crap in there. That was a nice "upgrade" IMO. Plus the steering feels so much better now. Not hard to turn and just feels all around better.