This. If you're going boost, do not expect to pass smog, unless you purchase a full kit from GReddy or something. Even then, you'd have to run stock diameter exhaust.As soon as they plug in the obd computer to the car and see its on obd1 they'll know something is up.
I dunno man. I was lifting on stock head studs. I was going to replace with OEM, but was discouraged by my tuner (GoPower Motorsports). ARP has always done me right.The only benefit of the arp studs over oem is arp are made to be reused. If you buy NEW oem studs they will hold 1000 ponies down easy.
If you have a feeling you want to take your engine apart again then go arp. If you are confident in your build go oemI dunno man. I was lifting on stock head studs. I was going to replace with OEM, but was discouraged by my tuner (GoPower Motorsports). ARP has always done me right.
where those on new oem ones or the ones that where already with the motor just curiousI dunno man. I was lifting on stock head studs. I was going to replace with OEM, but was discouraged by my tuner (GoPower Motorsports). ARP has always done me right.
I'm not super knowledgeable about the parts but he quoted me $875 for the cp/manley set up and I told to stay away from eagle. Whats the deal with that? Why would he say that? And what does a vitara/eagle set up run?all these singlecam 'max' limits crack me up. Dont waste your money on CP's/manley rods. A simple vitara/eagle rod combo its not only cheap, but will handle any power you want as a street car. Hell, we ran them in our race car.
I was gonna do that but I don't want to pay for two tunings if I switch injectors and fuel pumpI am picking up everything tomorrow for a steal. So I was planning on doing it in the spring but with how warm it's been here if I get a couple days off of work I may do it soon. I just will need to take it to have the new exhaust bent up. My plan was to keep it conservative and then maybe once summer rolls around get some bigger injectors, and fuel pump and then actually build the motor and get more power out of it
Your tuner doesn't sound like a very good one, of course rods and pistons are ideal for anything 220hp and sleeving the block is not needed until over 400hp. Most block guards do more damage then help from what I have readIm in the process of my Y8 turbo build and the tuner I plan to use told me with my goal (300hp daily) that rods and pistons would be ideal. He recommended me "CP pistions" with "Manley H-BEAM Rods", ARP head studs and of course new headgasket. I was curious with your question about what else would be required I asked about sleeving or block guard he stated both are not needed til 350hp, but I could do the block guard for extra security. he said the head should be soild with 300hp. Im definetly interested to see what you do. When are you planning to install?
For a daily driven car I wouldn't recommend vitaras because of there stupid low compression, If you think your civic is slow now wait till you put in those vitaras.you also need custom length rods to try to bump the compression ratio up to a reasonable ratioall these singlecam 'max' limits crack me up. Dont waste your money on CP's/manley rods. A simple vitara/eagle rod combo its not only cheap, but will handle any power you want as a street car. Hell, we ran them in our race car.