b16a2/ gsr b18c1 block build wrap up

[bardo_em1]

ok as the title states. im putting together a poor mans type r so to speak. ive seen some good things and have saved and took notes on different pointers. wanted to make a thread to help put it all together.

i have a 99 civic si with a b16a2, but was told when i bought it that it had itr cams, itr valvetrain, itr intake manifold and tb(have a stock p30 intake manifold as well).as for the block i was told it was bored to 86mm on upgraded sleeves but he couldn't remember the name because him and his cousin built it 8 years ago. i have not took it apart to confirm any of this because its my daily and cant afford to take it apart at this time. but i have got the opportunity to pick up a b18c1 block with a blown piston for 100. I plan to make it a decent dd until i finish the funds to boost it all. so i want to know what upgrades should i make now to look towards the future and still have a reliable build til boost. i have a stock p2t running the set up now and it runs fine-ish. runs rich and every once in a while ill get a p0170 and p0172( running rich) i also have a p28 chipped ecu with a basemap from pherable.net that better fits the setup just runs on open loop so its a no go for dd right now. i planned on getting it tuned and dyno'd but wanted better numbers than what i had so decided to spend that tune money on a build. any help with this or suggestions will be good. im not actually taking the motor out until the summer when i can ride my gsxr as my dd. thanks in advance.

 

[xxBLOOD88SHOTxx]

Your post is knid of hard to follow. So youre looking to pick up a gsr block, swap your B16 head on it and boost it. What exactly are you needing advice on? The first cheap and logical move would be to get your daily running correctly. Contact phearable, give them as much info as possible and they will get you a better basemap.

 

[bardo_em1]

sorry for it being hard to follow....as for my motor now it runs good. my guess is that it wont run perfect without a tune because of the mods the stock p2t ecu will always read rich because of the bigger intake manifold, the different cams, and more so the 86mm bore and not to mention the high flow cat. so yes a tune would run it way better but my thing is instead of spending 300+ on a dyno why no pick up this gsr block build it and swap blocks. that way i will have a reliable yet quick motor now and when i boost it, all i will do is work on the head (pnp, cams etc) and it will be perfect ready to go and reliable after tuning. i guess the advice im looking for would be recommended parts for this. im looking to get 300-350whp when i boost so i want all supporting mods will the gsr rods and crank hold up to that?

 

[b16lewis]

Yes the rods and crank will hold with proper tune

 

[bardo_em1]

thank you b16lewis, so with this set up i mentioned (poor mans type r) so to speak. would it make more sense to boost that or would i get the same kind of numbers from my b16? just looking for a logical outlook cause i dont want to spend all that money building that set up if i could spend less or the same and produce the same numbers.

 

[JeffBel]

I don't know why you are getting a Gsr block. Tune the b16 if its really sleeved then it will handle boost way better. If you research and have a mind set you can accomplish anything on these engines in a weekend so you don't have to worry about driving.

 

[bardo_em1]

@JeffBel- yeah i guess your right. i spent alot of time researching the poor mans type r build and boosting it that i didnt really look into building the b16. i guess cause ive read that people get the gsr block to make up for the lack of tq of the b16. so i thought of picking up that block to compensate for it and then boost it made sense to me to do it. i just dont believe the guy i got it from. After having it for 6 months i replaced every main sensor on that motor besides the map sensor. he told me it had no check engine light and one day i happened to take the speedo out and seen he just removed the MIL light completely. so you can see my frustration with that motor and i have fixed all codes besides the p0172(system too rich) and p0170(fuel trim malfuntion bank 1)

 

[xxBLOOD88SHOTxx]

I guess the real thing to do would be, get the GSR block and clean it up. Put THAT under the built head and daily that. Take the "built" B16 block, make sure it is what it is suppose to be, clean THAT up and swap it back under the built head. Then you will have a known good GSR bottom end for backup, and you can find a good vtec head for sub 400. If you do it right you could have two good engines (one being built for boost) for probably less than 2k. That doesnt include the turbo setup etc, but thats damn good for the situation you could be in.

 

[Failsafe88]

You didn't get any receipts showing the word done to the motor or the parts in the new motor or anything like that? If not you just screwed your own self over dont feel to bad though I have been screwed over on my car plenty of times lol.

 

[bardo_em1]

no he didnt have any because he claimed it was built 8 years ago. so yeah its a majority my fault cause at that time my dd 91 accord was on its end and repairing that would have been pointless due to how much it would cost vs the value. so i wanted a civic for a while and found it and kinda went with it cause i was in need of a car. so yeah i screwed myself so my options ar to fix it or sell it this summer and get a 06-08 si.

 

[xxBLOOD88SHOTxx]

where in TN are you from?

 

[JeffBel]

I'm thinking why you got all the lights and everything was because he took the tuned ecu. This just sounds sketchy.

 

[hondamaster719]

I'm thinking why you got all the lights and everything was because he took the tuned ecu. This just sounds sketchy.

+1. ^^^

The guy knew what was going on... He knew you had no clue what you were doing. I hate shady bastards :banghead:

sent from my EVO eater

 

[bardo_em1]

@ xxBLOOD88SHOTxx- im from clarksville.

@JeffBel- no he left the tuned p28 in the car. i still have it. it ran extremely rich for a n/a cause he had it boosted so thats why i found a stock p2t ecu.

@hondamaster719-yeah he got me i mean i would never think someone would go that far into trying to get over on someone. i much rather would have known cause i do love the car just would of rather known the real problems and what needed to be done.

and on a side note from all of this i took off the valve cover tonight to put a new gasket on it and i noticed some scarring on the cam lobes. right in front of cylinder 3. Needs a valve adjustment? not clearing the rocker arms all the way correct? sooooo if anyone has a decent b16a2 stock untouched that works and can provide proof of it running and a compression check video im in the market to buy one. or a built one ready for boost with provided papers, videos, compression test and maybe a dyno. lmk. im ready to start fresh and bring this em1 from the edge of death lol

 

[JeffBel]

Get that s**t tuned before you break something dude

 

[bardo_em1]

yeah i had plans to get it tuned but my thing is if im going to spend 300+ to get it tuned on a possibly unhealthy motor that my blow something on the dyno why not hold on to that 300 put it towards a health running motor so i can rip mine out and piece it together for the boost i want. then that way i have two good know motors when its all said and done and i can use the stock one in my future hatch build i want later down the road

 

[JeffBel]

yeah i had plans to get it tuned but my thing is if im going to spend 300+ to get it tuned on a possibly unhealthy motor that my blow something on the dyno why not hold on to that 300 put it towards a health running motor so i can rip mine out and piece it together for the boost i want. then that way i have two good know motors when its all said and done and i can use the stock one in my future hatch build i want later down the road

You should've gotten evidence that the thing was built. Receipts is the first thing I ask for when I get there. If they don't have them then my offer is cut in half.

Have a tuner put a basemap for the supposed parts in it and see how it runs. How are you determining this motor is unhealthy? You need to do a compression test and leak down to call it healthy or not.

 

[bardo_em1]

yeah i know i should of trust me wont happen again. and i did a compression check two weeks ago

cyl 1-150-155
cyl 2-120-125
cyl 3-120-125
cyl 4- 150-155

if it does in deed have 86mm bore are these numbers normal? i did it correctly i think. did it after i just got done using the car so motor was at operating temp. took out all spark plugs, and disabled the fuel pump via ecu fuse. cranked it for about 5 sec per cyl and held the pedal all the way down. and i have a base map chip i mentioned initially from pherable.net it just has the o2 sensors off so the open loop is killing me driving it gas wise

 

[xxBLOOD88SHOTxx]

compression numbers will be different depending on what pistons are in it. 86mm bore seems like a lot on a b series. 84mm seems to always be the max, Ive seen maybe 1 or 2 blocks with 84.5.

 

[bardo_em1]

Yeah 86mm is the absolute max 84 is more ideal cause u leave room for a little more bore .5 or max 85mm. Idk why he would bore it to that cause if anything goes wrong a new block is pretty much needed or resleeve and new pistons. That's why I'm looking for other options motor wise or I'm going to sell the car this summer which I rather not.