Clunk, Clunk, Clunk ONLY when turning Right?

[Anthony_76]

My car has been lowered. The other day I was turning right and cut it to short and scraped the front passenger side tire on the curb pretty hard.
The next day since my two front tires were bald, I replaced them with good ones. Which may be rubbing, none the less, I believe to have a issue here that needs addressing.
It's not a CV joint because it only appears when turning right, it's defiantly on the front passenger side tire. My friend says it sounds like the trans axle. It could also be bearings. My friend said it could be the rack and pinion steering. Does this car even have that type of steering?
This sounds scary and very expensive.
I will provide more information when I know more.
The car did not do this prior, and it does now pull to the right a little bit, which it did not do prior to the curb incident.
Thanks in advance!

 

[taluzer45]

The pulling to the right is typical after a curbing incedent! Get an alignment, and for the clunk, check Axle nut tightness, And belive it or not, a Wheel bearing can cause a clunk on turning, even if it is only in one direction, and the bearing can go from exposure to shock, if its heat, or physical shock, it can happen!

 

[taluzer45]

And It could be a CV, with just one of the little u-Joints in the axle gone? ( Sorry for the double post, just trying to help!)

 

[00siboy]

When you say "pulls to the right" do you mean you have to hold the steering wheel off center to drive straight, or does it pull right under acceleration/deceleration? First thing you should do is a visual inspection, and if that checks out good you should just get it checked by a shop. It's not likely that its in the tranny or wheel bearing, 99% of fixes for this symptom is a CV axle.

EDIT: The noise is most likely a CV, but like taluzer said you will probably need an alignment and possibly some suspension/steering parts. How fast were you going when you hit the curb?

 

[Anthony_76]

I don't recall how fast I was going. However it was hard enough that it bent the rim.
My friend says it's the transaxle, that I have to replace the whole transaxle.
My other friend says I can't just replace the CV joint, I have to replace the whole axle.
It pulls right at all times, it did not pull at all prior, I could let go of the wheel on the freeway, it would go straight.
I am going to take it to a shop today.
Is driving it like this making it worse?
I have put several hundred miles on it since then.

 

[Trekk]

It's not good for the new tires but other then that is a guess

 

[00siboy]

You know that transaxle means the whole tranny right? Thats a pretty wild diagnosis, you should just wait to see what the shop says.

And as for driving it, since there is unknown damage just take it easy.

 

[Anthony_76]

Okay the clunk clunk clunk is my axle.
Both axles need to be replaced as they are old and all 4 boots are jacked up or missing completely. So that explains the noise. (It was like that when I bought the car) What I mean is, the axles needed Which had nothing to do with me hitting the curb.
I also bent the Right Hand Lower Control Arm when I hit that curb and knocked the right side out of alignment.
Good news: I can get all the parts for abut $150.
Here is the axles I am getting (x 2)
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MPV0/604061/01424.oap?year=1996&make=Honda&model=Civic&vi=1168882&ck=Search_axle_01424_1168882_2635&keyword=axle&pt=01424&ppt=C0362
(+ a $20 core I will get back when I bring in my old ones)

Here is the lower control arm for the right side on eBay for $42.30
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300820473815?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619

The guy told me not to drive the car because it could snap the axle and cause more damage. So it's in my driveway until then.

He wants to charge me the following: $129.60 for the Lower Control Arm plus $217.21 for Labor which is a total of $357.18
Plus 75.60 for 1 of the axles, plus $98.50 for Labor, which times two is $360, so his total was well over $600.

I said to hell with that, I'll buy the parts and me and a buddy or two can do all this in 2-3 hours, maybe 4.
My friend said he will do the whole thing and put my stock springs back in for me for $200.
I'm gonna ask some more friends tomorrow.
I'm worried if it's worth it to me to dump another $200-$300 in it. My friend says don't worry about it that it's good car with 91K original miles, New Del Sol Racing Seats, New Clutch, New Front Fenders, Sport Mirrors, Sitting on Tokico Blues with stupid lowering springs, I have put blue seat covers and a blue shift knob to match. I also just put in the brightest white headlights you can get, the Sylvania SilverStar Ultra, which were $50. Not to mention my Rockford Fosgate speaker system and Kenwood deck...
I hope this car last me a couple years... My friend told me when I downshift, that it wears out my clutch. I told him I prefer to downshift and save my brakes.

Sorry for the long rant guys, I'm just a little stressed because I won't get paid for another 2-3 weeks and until then I no longer have a car.

 

[504scene]

Yeah to hell with that mechanic but yeah with only 90 Sumthin on it it will last awhile jus maintain the regulars man and how dam hard did u hit that curd I destroyed a curb once bent the rim n all n didn't do that much lol only thing that suffered was my poor 17" lol

 

[hondamaster719]

It's all about HOW you hit the curb lol. And f**k that mechanic...

sent from my EVO eater

 

[504scene]

I was going like 30-40 when I hit a curb threw me n ma gf ass around the car like I drilled a dam moose in a pinball machine lol killed my alignment and killed two rims but that was it

 

[Anthony_76]

My friend told me that we should just replace everything like the seals, bushing, bearings, tie rods, ect...
He says I could have also bent a tie rod and what would be the point of replacing this stuff only to find out when I get the suspension all aligned that something else is bent.
I am going to take my wheels off and thoroughly inspect this thing. I'm for the sake of if it ain't broken, don't fix it. My friend is tellin' me to just fix it now and for a little more for the parts, just to be safe, and it will save me money in the long run.
What do you guys think?

 

[00siboy]

I'm all for doing things yourself, but stop hatin on the mechanic thats a pretty fair price, probably right around what we would charge at my work.

As a tech myself, I agree with replacing everything you can while you have it all apart and have some forced downtime, that way you won't have to be without you car in the future if something else goes bad.

 

[lethal6]

Price from the mechanic is actually a pretty good price for the labor. If you figure in roughly $100/hr that's right in line with average rates. Plus if it is a reputable shop they will warranty their work.

 

[00siboy]

^^He makes a good point. Most shops will have a 12 month/12,000 mi standard warranty on parts AND labor.

 

[Anthony_76]

Where should I get my parts at?
Having a hard time getting the correct lower front control arm.

 

[00siboy]

Any aftermarket parts place: napa, autozone, oreilly, etc. You could get them from a honda dealership too or an online honda parts dealer. Aftermarket would be cheaper tho.

 

[lethal6]

I hope this car last me a couple years... My friend told me when I downshift, that it wears out my clutch. I told him I prefer to downshift and save my brakes.
.

It would be better to save your clutch and wear out the brakes. They are a LOT cheaper, last longer when beat on, and a LOT easier to replace. Think about it. You can swap out your pads and rotors in a half hour.

Example:

Burn your clutch out:
Clutch kit = ~$150
Flywheel = ~$150
Time: depends on knowledge and experience. I could do it in a couple hours maybe. Been a while. Newb probably the better part of a day if your lucky.
Price total = $300

Brakes:
Pads = ~$50 (hit it high with some GOOD pads)
Rotors = ~$100 (also hit it high with good ones price is for 2)
Time = half hour even for a newb
total $150 and you are out and back on the road in a half hour. If you get some basic pads and rotors you can keep it under $100.

The choice is obvious. Why would you not stop with the brakes instead of burning your clutch out?

 

[Trekk]

My dad drove his mustang over 150k miles mostly city on the stock clutch and 1 set of brakes. Clearly he didn't hot rod it much, but before he finally sold it I could still roast the tires in it. If you down shift right you have no problems.

 

[Anthony_76]

All you do is downshift and come off the clutch.
Besides, my car JUST had a clutch put in it.