CHILD'S *EK* ... finally i have an EK

[CHILD]

Sooo, Kerry... About your wilwood brakes, I'm debating getting a set since you always research and carefully choose your mods accordingly. Would that be too much brake for my hatch on the street? I'm thinking of just knocking that out and leaving the drums in the rear, I thought about the fast brakes 11" economy kit, but the integra calipers won't even use the whole disk and it seems like they are more for looks. The wilwood set up looks to be best bang for the buck.

I wouldn't say it will be too much brake, although it will be more of a bite and brake than an OEM mix and match. Closest comparison would be the RSX/S2000 combo but that's 5 lug and a larger rotor and caliper. The willwood setup is designed specifically for the cars with the super tiny brakes so it's not overpowering like it may seem. Sure it's a 4piston, but it's in a relatively small caliper. Spoon twinblocks are bigger than the dynalite caliper, and Spoon is smaller than almost any other BBK option. Also, if you opt for their 11" rear conversion kit, that too is designed to give a proper brake balance when matched with the 11" dynalite kit (this is what im planning on doing). This setup also keeps you from needing to upgrade the prop valve or brake booster. The rear setup is costly though. The fronts are a "best bang for the buck" sort of setup. Not the most elite brake setup, but not too damn shabby either.
If you really want to save money and upgrade, just get EX fronts and calipers with some nice Hawk pads, and Si or integra rear discs later on. On my EG, upgrading to SiR fronts was a night and day experience. The feel is more dramatic in the lighter weight cars than the stock equipped models.

 

[96romaCX]

I was planning to swap the rears to integra discs, and do the 11" wilwood set up front. Do you know of where I can find info on if the kosei k1s I have will clear the 11" dynalites? I got iffy info on a miata site and honda tech is sooo wishy washy

 

[CHILD]

I was planning to swap the rears to integra discs, and do the 11" wilwood set up front. Do you know of where I can find info on if the kosei k1s I have will clear the 11" dynalites? I got iffy info on a miata site and honda tech is sooo wishy washy

No I don't know where you can find that. But I do believe JayJay rocked K1's with his willwood setup and used a spacer. I believe it's in the willwood brake DIY he did for the site.

http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=154453

 

[96romaCX]

Okay thank you very much, I read on a Nissan forum those guys used the 11" kit with 15x7 + 38 koseis just now, but I don't know if that means it will clear on a honda. I'll keep researching.

 

[CHILD]

Finally got off my butt and port matched my throttle body. I just used my dremel and a coarse grinding stone (peach-ish colored thingy) It did the job. This is the first time i've tried something like this and I think it came out pretty good. I did have a couple of wavy or uneven spots after my first go at it, but I removed the TB and hit it again but didn't take pics.





a bit wavy on the right side, bleh


up top looked pretty good to me


the bottom


I may have a tiny bit of a taper but with the throttle body in place it looks flat. might just be the angle of the shot


TB closed and open


another view inside. Looks like smooth sailng to my non machinist eye


the money pit, just because


a look at the cleaned rear. Not sure what endlinks i should use for this. I plan on grabbing an ASR sway but don't know if i should use ASR endlinks or function7 endlinks? Any input of info would be helpful




drove into a bug all hardcore! *smash*

 

[Hecz]

Nice job on the Thottle body. You can finish the surface with a finer grinding stone, you can even polish that yourself if you wanted to.

 

[ReedMann]

Looking good man!

 

[K-N-2-EK]

Regards to the sway bar question....

Just curious why not go with an ITR sway bar and function7 end links? Can be had BNIB cheaper and offers OEM reliability. Also makes end links easier to choose!

 

[CHILD]

Regards to the sway bar question....

Just curious why not go with an ITR sway bar and function7 end links? Can be had BNIB cheaper and offers OEM reliability. Also makes end links easier to choose!

Im considering the other bars and braces I plan on using wont be oem and I feel that a bigger sway will match up better with the large upper bars I have in mind. Also, I like the adjustability of aftermarket sways. It will give me some room for a little more or less if i over thought this.

 

[96romaCX]

Heim style endlinks are basically all the same, they have a small Teflon layer inside them but since that is exposed to the elements on a daily driven vehicle they collect lots of contaminents. I have to wipe mine down once a week and spritz wd40 on them, or else they get clicky on uneven surfaces. I didn't find these untill after I threw my set up together.
They're weight in gold according to my Subaru buddies, and when my blox endlinks wear out (I'm also told these are a wear replace product like brake pads etc..) I'm just going to get a new pair of blox links and get a set of these to keep em in shape

http://www.sealsit.com/rodendboots.asp

All in all if you get these and go blox it would have better reliability than the other names, you'll just save a bit on the endlinks and with the cost of the boots even out to a pair of asr or function 7.

I've read on honda tech that function 7 does t actually manufacture their adjustable endlinks, they just market them from a different distributor, but who knows all in all, I'd just go the blox/boot route since they will need to be replaced annually or according to wear.

Hope I can help YOU out for once!!

 

[CHILD]

What sucks in my opinion is that Im almost stuck with an American solution for my japanese car. Its like getting Jun cams for a camaro ill keep looking around for a solution. It's just something that's floating around in my head from time to time

 

[96romaCX]

I understand, but in this economy why not by American made parts? Over in Japan usdm parts are also all the rage! Lol

 

[CHILD]

I understand, but in this economy why not by American made parts? Over in Japan usdm parts are also all the rage! Lol

american parts over there is just a fad. Like here with roof racks and crap. Even their USDM Jam event has more japanese aftermarket parts than usdm junk.

 

[mymmeryloss]

There are lots of high quality american companies. i dont understand the "it has to be all jdm" thought process. If its quality then uts quality no matter which side of the ocean it comes from.

Engine pics r lookin killer btw!

 

[CHILD]

There are lots of high quality american companies. i dont understand the "it has to be all jdm" thought process. If its quality then uts quality no matter which side of the ocean it comes from.

Engine pics r lookin killer btw!

Understand the quality from either side, but I prefer someone who's specialty is my chassis. My American parts so far haven't been as great as I thought they would be. Not bad either, but I find room to complain about them. I want an ASR sway which is American but suspension is what they do so I feel confident in them.

 

[K-N-2-EK]

Understand the quality from either side, but I prefer someone who's specialty is my chassis. My American parts so far haven't been as great as I thought they would be. Not bad either, but I find room to complain about them. I want an ASR sway which is American but suspension is what they do so I feel confident in them.

I haven't researched much about sway bars but doesn't Eibach manufacture sway bars also?

 

[CHILD]

I haven't researched much about sway bars but doesn't Eibach manufacture sway bars also?

yeah they do.



clutch ordered

 

[96romaCX]

Sweet man! You could always rock an ITR rear sway, the jdm is 23mm, I got the usdm 22mm, but man my car is really neutral! The eibach sways are 26mm front and 17 rear, plus the k series weighs the same as a b series swap, so shouldn't affect the current spring rates at all since you've experienced the coupe with the same set up, you'll know what to expect. The factory front sway you have and a jdm rear bar would be a nice set up.

By the way regarding your buddy club rail, how much lower than stock is it?

 

[CHILD]

Sweet man! You could always rock an ITR rear sway, the jdm is 23mm, I got the usdm 22mm, but man my car is really neutral! The eibach sways are 26mm front and 17 rear, plus the k series weighs the same as a b series swap, so shouldn't affect the current spring rates at all since you've experienced the coupe with the same set up, you'll know what to expect. The factory front sway you have and a jdm rear bar would be a nice set up.

By the way regarding your buddy club rail, how much lower than stock is it?

I dont want to be neutral, I want to retain some natural oversteer,. Also, I will have shock tower bars to have the front and rear boxed, so just considering the sway bar sizes isn't enough for me. If the upper part of the suspension is more rigid, then it's going to directly effect the lower end and sway bar effect. I want to go beyond factory performance.

Oh yeah, I'm not concerned with the K effecting the current spring rates. My rear is simply too soft imo as is and it will sink in more wheni accelerate with the k which lifts the front end and reduces traction.

The buddy club rails can keep you really close to stock height and also drop really low. I can have my bucket seat literally touch the floor on the lowest setting

 

[mymmeryloss]

But you want sink to prevent wheel hop

Am i missing something here?