car over heated suspected blown headgasket (negatice)

sbmarco

New Member
quick update: I got the head back from the machine shop.I have new pump and belt, head gasket kit,(but was missing a few, way to go partstrain),

Can you explain how to rethread? will a tap and die set from harbor freight do the job?

I have honda bond, but it may be old.

I wish i had a phnuematic compressor. lol

The part under the intake, It was so brittle the hose snapped off. I will be replacing all vaccum hoses with 3/8 in hose. new clamps.

I have decided not to replace the rear main.

after a rebuild i was told too prime the fuel pump, by turning the key to the number 2 spot, so the fuel pump will begin pumping fuel through the system.

I haven't had much time to work on my car, but i have a day off tomorrow, so i hope a lot gets done.

again thanks for all your help guys
 

SpeedTechnik

Nothing but Performance
Registered VIP
sbmarco said:
quick update: I got the head back from the machine shop.I have new pump and belt, head gasket kit,(but was missing a few, way to go partstrain),

Can you explain how to rethread? will a tap and die set from harbor freight do the job?

I have honda bond, but it may be old.

I wish i had a phnuematic compressor. lol

The part under the intake, It was so brittle the hose snapped off. I will be replacing all vaccum hoses with 3/8 in hose. new clamps.

I have decided not to replace the rear main.

after a rebuild i was told too prime the fuel pump, by turning the key to the number 2 spot, so the fuel pump will begin pumping fuel through the system.

I haven't had much time to work on my car, but i have a day off tomorrow, so i hope a lot gets done.

again thanks for all your help guys
Click to expand...
1) There are many ways to rethread, you can take it to a shop, use a corresponsive bolt, etc. The tap and die form is almost the same running a corresponsive bolt except it actually shaves a slight layer of metal potentially making it weaker. Here is a video of how to tap and die, the last part would be most relevant to you but will also show the shaving/chipping away of that thin layer of metal:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVnN4jiB7Gk

2)How old the sealant is plays a big role in its performance to do its job. If you feel its too old buy a new one.

3)Yes, it primes automatically when you switch it to on without cranking the engine. (unless you have a bad fuel pump, or relay, etc)
 


sbmarco

New Member
hey speed, links dead , but to rethread the holes how do you know which tap to use? Is there a measurement system?

Also, I want to wash my head thoroughly( just for piece of mind) how would you recommend i do this?

I am currently still cleaning parts, and i am taking my time.

Thanks for your help, peace
 

SpeedTechnik

Nothing but Performance
Registered VIP
sbmarco said:
hey speed, links dead , but to rethread the holes how do you know which tap to use? Is there a measurement system?

Also, I want to wash my head thoroughly( just for piece of mind) how would you recommend i do this?

I am currently still cleaning parts, and i am taking my time.

Thanks for your help, peace
Click to expand...
1)Yes, there is a complete measurement system that I believe you should read over before you rethread them. Here is a video of someone slightly explaining the measurement system and how to use it while rethreading a standard bolt. I also tried the link and it works just fine, check you internet connection and see if your device and/laptop/pc etc is loading correctly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-OPZYpuNeW4

just a quick tip

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7q41yt-PKJw

2) There are many ways to do this, you can use berrymans, brake cleaner, or even just water. The importance is that if you are going to do this, that you must not allow any foreign contaminants to remain and to take existing ones out -carefully. Simply spray or dip into whatever you are using, scrub (lightly to not disturb or scratch the surface but enough to remove gunk. ) and then use water to wash everything out. After that is done, you should use a pneumatic air gun and gently spray into every hole possible so that you get whatever residue is in there, out . Alternatively you can also use things like a shop rag. Heres a video showing pretty much how I clean with my pneumatic tools: (go to 2:10 into the video)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5WHBskK_F3o&list=PL968D5AF70B82EC06&index=16

At some machine shops they will spray a thin layer of protectant to prevent the head from rusting or allowing debris catch onto the head after they are done. Usually this means they did their job, but it never hurts to check with an Led light and maybe a good cleansing.
 


sbmarco

New Member
Ok so im looking to get a rethread kit tomorrow, but i dont have a air conpressor. Could i use those can things that blow air?

I would be down to buy a nice compressor, but being i dont have anyplace to store it, i cant.

Im thinking of just washing it in a tub full of water and spraying wd40 after. I can maybe see if the mechanic a few yards from my house be willing to help me, but he seems like an a hole. This is the first time i got my head worked on, and i know there are ppl who slack off, so i do want to wash it. Just in case.

What do you reccomend i do?
 

SpeedTechnik

Nothing but Performance
Registered VIP
sbmarco said:
Ok so im looking to get a rethread kit tomorrow, but i dont have a air conpressor. Could i use those can things that blow air?

I would be down to buy a nice compressor, but being i dont have anyplace to store it, i cant.

Im thinking of just washing it in a tub full of water and spraying wd40 after. I can maybe see if the mechanic a few yards from my house be willing to help me, but he seems like an a hole. This is the first time i got my head worked on, and i know there are ppl who slack off, so i do want to wash it. Just in case.

What do you reccomend i do?
Click to expand...
Usually compressed air contains other byproducts so just make sure they aren't harmful to you engine. You can always buy a smaller compressor and keep it in your car. It can provide great help with a flat or low spare tire. I recommend you use brake cleaner and scrub then wash off in a tub; again, the last thing you want are foreign contaminants....like the ones in wd40 and some brake cleaners. So spray, scrub, repeat, wash/cleanse. As far as asking another mechanic, another pair of hands doesn't hurt but just make sure he knows his stuff and is wiling; I'm sure no one would like to come home from working on cars all day to then be asked to work on someone else's for free, but there are some that don't mind and some that would love to but you cant judge a book by its cover.
 

sbmarco

New Member
Ok so i havent been able to get much done lately. ive got evertything clean, and am now working on valve adjustment,however, i cant find the spec. I must not be looking in the right place?

i plan on putting everything back together tomorrow. Do i put gasket maker around the entire water pump housing?

tdc on the cam is indicated by up at twelve o clock. And there is a line on the timing cover that aligns with little teeth on the crank pulley. Correct?

Thanks
 

SpeedTechnik

Nothing but Performance
Registered VIP
sbmarco said:
Ok so i havent been able to get much done lately. ive got evertything clean, and am now working on valve adjustment,however, i cant find the spec. I must not be looking in the right place?

i plan on putting everything back together tomorrow. Do i put gasket maker around the entire water pump housing?

tdc on the cam is indicated by up at twelve o clock. And there is a line on the timing cover that aligns with little teeth on the crank pulley. Correct?

Thanks
Click to expand...
Getting a simple service manual should answer those questions and more, there are tons lying around on the internet. If memory serves...look up a member that goes by "RonJ" He has a unique signature with links. one of those links will redirect you to a page where you can download the complete service manual for you spec vehicle. For valve adjustment you need a special tool and its difficult to master. This should give you a general idea on what is needed for a valve adjustment:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7wI4EtZSaA

*remember to adjust while it is cold and when it is at the peak of the cylinder base*

Note: So far I have been answering every one of your questions, I believe it is time for you to get a service manual for all your small specific questions to help you along the way. Especially since you are doing a small overhaul. It is your best tool when doing so, and I believe this isn't the first time I have mentioned it. I don't mind answering something if it is confusing in the manual or if you are confused or stuck in a certain situation but for these questions, you will find them specifically answered in the manual.
 

sbmarco

New Member
I do have a service manual, but i am unable to find the spec for the camshaft (rocker arm assembly)holder bolts. They are 12 mm bolts. Its shows the tightening sequence but i dont see the torquing spec.

Also i cant find the spec for the four 10 mm bolts. On the ends of the camshaft( closest to cam gear and cam plug) .

Thanks.again for your help. It is very appreciated. peace
 

SpeedTechnik

Nothing but Performance
Registered VIP
sbmarco said:
Thanks for your help
Click to expand...
You're welcome, Don't forget to update your results once you finish. If you have any other questions regarding something you are confused about, don't hesitate to ask(just make sure you have done at least a little research, or read over previous information from other threads).
 

sbmarco

New Member
I have a question for you guys. I have a g2 integra and i need to relocate my ect switch to the thermostat housing. I have a black wire( ground) and a yellow/white wire (power). On the thermostat housing, however,the plug is a green and red wire. Is there away to determine which one of the two wires would be power. I have a dmm that i rarely use and id like to learn how to use it.

Your help is appreciated.i don't know much about electrical but i am always willing to learn.
 

SpeedTechnik

Nothing but Performance
Registered VIP
sbmarco said:
I have a question for you guys. I have a g2 integra and i need to relocate my ect switch to the thermostat housing. I have a black wire( ground) and a yellow/white wire (power). On the thermostat housing, however,the plug is a green and red wire. Is there away to determine which one of the two wires would be power. I have a dmm that i rarely use and id like to learn how to use it.

Your help is appreciated.i don't know much about electrical but i am always willing to learn.
Click to expand...
Get a voltmeter, if it has a current of 12.4-12.6 its power if there is nothing it will be ground.
 

sbmarco

New Member
I figured out that both wires are ground and when it hits a certain temperature it supplies ground to the relay, therefore turning the fan on. i will check the switch last.
 

sbmarco

New Member
How would i go about extracting a broken bolt? I was torquing the rocker arm assembly bolts to sixteen foot pounds, when one of them snapped. How much would a machine shop charge?

thanks peace
 

SpeedTechnik

Nothing but Performance
Registered VIP
sbmarco said:
How would i go about extracting a broken bolt? I was torquing the rocker arm assembly bolts to sixteen foot pounds, when one of them snapped. How much would a machine shop charge?

thanks peace
Click to expand...
If you have the proper tools you can do it yourself and save some cash but the quote would vary from shop to shop. Why didn't you use new rocker arm bolts?
 

sbmarco

New Member
I will call around today and see how much they will charge. Should i have gotten new bolts? I figured the old ones would be ok, guess not lol.

Anyways i need to stop procrascinating and get this car running thanks again for your help

Correct tools? Drill and some bits?
 
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