92 VX h/b -stalls while driving-HAS dash lights

wehrd1

New Member
RonJ said:
Yes, try the 5-7 and 1-7 main relay connector jump tests.
Click to expand...

The last time i did this - 5 to 7 gave me pump prime - tonight on II, it does not.

when i did 1 - 7 i had wire in 7 and i put other end in 1, it sparked slightly, but then i tried again, and it didn't spark - and II, no prime either


is my ECU shot totally now? do i have a bad ground somewhere?? :?:

does the ECU have to bolted to the side frame? i went in under the carpet and took it out of the 'hanger', in anticipation of testing the other day, but all the harnesses are still connected and securely seated.

next?
 


wehrd1

New Member
its really really cold out there. i had to stop.

i'll test further in the morning when the sun comes up..its supposed to be rainy and highs in the upper 50s tomorrw.
my fingers ar numb

thanks for your patience and help thus far
 

RonJ

Banned
Right now, the ECU does not seem to be the culprit.

You now need to remove the rear seat and the access cover to the fuel pump.

Then unplug the 2P fuel pump connector and test whether the power wire terminal receives voltage and whether the black ground wire terminal has ground.

I'm going fishing tomorrow and probably won't get home until the evening. I'll check your thread then.
 


wehrd1

New Member
Now that it won't start at all, is an issue unto itself.

my original problem is that it would start fine, then while driving just fine, it would stutter, and then lose all power, and as i coasted to side of road, the dash lights would come on as it died.
- the first time it cost me a distributor, ran great for 500 miles. the 2nd time, they replaced it under warranty. ran great for another 500 miles. the 3rd time, we changed the fuel filter and it ran for a week before doing it again. 4th time, wth, replaced the filter again, ran to get me home.

when this happens, i can wait a while, then start it, and drive a little farther, to only have it happen again.

would the fuel pump cause that? i thought they only ran when it primped the system. which now, it doesn't appear to be doing.

Have a great day fishing. you're lucky to have nice weather down there.
 

RonJ

Banned
Did you test voltage and ground at the fuel pump connector?

Great weather for fishing and also caught some fish.
 

wehrd1

New Member
RonJ said:
Did you test voltage and ground at the fuel pump connector?

Great weather for fishing and also caught some fish.
Click to expand...

didn't get to it yesterday - had to do other errands, and chores.
we've had the back seat out and we replaced the fuel pump back in 2008, so that's not a problem. Just have to work up the nerve to go out in the cold and actually get it done.


i told you i don't know anything about electricity =) how does one go about testing for those items on the pump connector? where do i stick the prongs of MM? and what readouts am i looking for/expecting if good or if bad? i have never used a MM in my life. -

You're a saint for helping me like this.

I would much prefer to be in Houston this time of year. Fresh water fishing? or in the gulf?
 

RonJ

Banned
wehrd1 said:
didn't get to it yesterday - had to do other errands, and chores.
we've had the back seat out and we replaced the fuel pump back in 2008, so that's not a problem. Just have to work up the nerve to go out in the cold and actually get it done.
Click to expand...
It's rare for Civic fuel pumps to fail. What type of fuel pump was installed? Honda OEM or aftermarket?

i told you i don't know anything about electricity =) how does one go about testing for those items on the pump connector? where do i stick the prongs of MM? and what readouts am i looking for/expecting if good or if bad? i have never used a MM in my life. -
Click to expand...
Do you have the Harbor Freight multimeter that I posted? If so, see my next post below.

If not, post a picture of your multimeter.

The voltage test:
  1. Turn key off.
  2. Unplug 2P connector to fuel pump.
  3. Dial the multimeter to DC voltage at the 20 volt range (DCV 20) and turn the unit on.
  4. Touch and hold the red meter probe to the Yel/Grn wire terminal and the black meter probe to the black wire terminal in the fuel pump connector.
  5. Have a buddy turn the key to ON(II) while watching whether the CEL still turns on and then off after 2 seconds.
  6. Did the multimeter measure battery voltage (~12.5V) for about 2 seconds after the key was turned to ON(II)?
You're a saint for helping me like this.
Click to expand...
I'm glad to help you out.

I would much prefer to be in Houston this time of year. Fresh water fishing? or in the gulf?
Click to expand...
70F and a mild comfortable breeze -- It's a great time of year to live in Houston weather wise.

Salt water bay fishing -- We caught a couple of sheepshead (left) and black drum (right).
 

Attachments

RonJ

Banned
Cen-Tech digital multimeter. There are three vertically-aligned red holes on the front, bottom right of unit. For the DC voltage measurements, install the red meter probe into the middle hole and the black meter probe into the bottom hole.

 

Attachments

wehrd1

New Member
RonJ said:
It's rare for Civic fuel pumps to fail. What type of fuel pump was installed? Honda OEM or aftermarket?



Do you have the Harbor Freight multimeter that I posted? If so, see my next post below.

If not, post a picture of your multimeter.

The voltage test:
  1. Turn key off.
  2. Unplug 2P connector to fuel pump.
  3. Dial the multimeter to DC voltage at the 20 volt range (DCV 20) and turn the unit on.
  4. Touch and hold the red meter probe to the Yel/Grn wire terminal and the black meter probe to the black wire terminal in the fuel pump connector.
  5. Have a buddy turn the key to ON(II) while watching whether the CEL still turns on and then off after 2 seconds.
  6. Did the multimeter measure battery voltage (~12.5V) for about 2 seconds after the key was turned to ON(II)?

.
Click to expand...

CEL lites for 2 secs . did it 3 times -

reads 11.93 , 11.94, 12.03

i don't know if it's important, but even though the CEL lights for 2 seconds, i do NOT hear the 1st relay click, CEL lights for 2 secs, then i DO hear the 2nd relay click when the CEL light goes out.
 

RonJ

Banned
The fuel pump is toast. You can verify by running power (+) and ground (-) wires directly from the battery to the fuel pump. When you touch the power wire to the terminal corresponding to the Yel/Grn wire of the fuel pump and the ground wire to the terminal corresponding to the black wire of the fuel pump, the fuel pump should run. If it doesn't, as expected, replace the fuel pump.

RonJ said:
What type of fuel pump was installed in 2008? Honda OEM or aftermarket?
Click to expand...
 

RonJ

Banned
wehrd1 said:
correct. 0 - key on II - 2 sec - the reading - then when CEL goes out - readout back to 0
Click to expand...
Okay good.

Do the diagnosis verification test below.

RonJ said:
The fuel pump is toast. You can verify by running power (+) and ground (-) wires directly from the battery to the fuel pump. When you touch the power wire to the terminal corresponding to the Yel/Grn wire of the fuel pump and the ground wire to the terminal corresponding to the black wire of the fuel pump, the fuel pump should run. If it doesn't, as expected, replace the fuel pump.
Click to expand...
 

wehrd1

New Member
RonJ said:
What type of fuel pump was installed in 2008? Honda OEM or aftermarket?.
Click to expand...
one I got at autozone with 1 yr warranty -

at the time i did it - i didn't fork out the $$ for a Honda one, because i thought for sure the car wouldn't last longer than the fuel pump. That was 125K miles ago :shock: :D

other than this problem - and not knowing what it was - the car runs freaking FANTASTIC.

the last time the fuel pump went out - it went OUT - kaput all at once. turned off the car, went to start it again the next day, and no start - no prime - KNEW what it was - replaced fuel pump, and it's ran great ever since.

this time - with the intermittent stalling and not starting - then would run for a week was throwing me for a loop.

Thanks!! Before throwing more $$ at it, unnecessarily, we will do the testing with the battery since the seat is out anyway. do we just use a long length of wire with the ends exposed? any particular gauge size? for safety?
 

wehrd1

New Member
OK - i'm stumped! :???:

we replaced the fuel pump - NOTHIN' from the new pump - we retested the 2P connector with the MM to see if pump was receiving power, and NOW it shows ZEROS , while the CEL lights for 2 secs at position II.

NOW what do we test? :(
 

RonJ

Banned
Plug the connector into the fuel pump, unplug the main relay, and do the 1-7 and 5-7 jump tests to see if the pump runs.
 
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