crank pulley (alt/ps) sheered off

xHanzJay

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d15b7

so my crank pulley sheered off. not the timing pully, but the one that does the power steering and alternator.

my car doesn't have a power steering, but the pulley that was on it had grooves for both (not sure if they made a non-ps pulley or not)

the inside of the pulley that fell off is pretty much toast so i can't re-use it. looks like it got stripped pretty bad before it finally gave up.


so my questions:
do i need anything other than a new crank pulley? like idk... gasket or something. i read something about a special key?
do they make an underdrive or lightweight b15b7 pulley since i need to replace it anyway?

*edit* something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VMS-Racing-Light-Weight-Aluminum-Crankshaft-Pulley-OEM-Size-92-95-Civic-SOHC-D16-/310542903299?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item484dcca803&vxp=mtr
 

Hecz

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Do you mind posting a picture?

The Civic Type-R N1 crank pull does not have PS or AC groove on it.
 


xHanzJay

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KsGrI4djF_M
^^ video. thought it might be easier
can't figure out how to embed it, i tried everything v_v

side note: yes i have an oil leak from somewhere. idk where.


here's some pics in case it isn't easier.






The Civic Type-R N1 crank pull does not have PS or AC groove on it.
it says those are for B series motors. will one fit my car? they are cheaper than what the honda dealer quoted me for a stock d15b7 one lol
 

nd4sped

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The B series pulley wont work for you.. The design is completed different as well.

Also the teeth aren't really teeth, but does look like it has spun around a bit on the crank causing some wear and tear. I am guessing the key-way some how came out? If it fits on the crank shaft still and has no "play" you should be good to continue using it.

I had this happen to be at a race, the key-way actually sheered off and allowed the crank to spin freely inside of the crank pulley. I only knew this happened as the power steering went out mid race. The motor was so loud I never hear the key-way sheer off. I cleaned up the crank shaft with some emory cloth, had some light scratches (I survived that one) and then did the same to the crank pulley.

The pulley slid back on nicely, cut a new key-way from a bit of steel stock I bought from a local parts store nearby and got back in the race before my next run.

The CTR N1 pulley mentioned before only has one section for the alternator belt. However it wont work for your D series either.
 


RonJ

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Post a picture of the crankshaft and its key slot where the pulley sits. Your biggest concern should be whether the crankshaft is damaged.
 

xHanzJay

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Post a picture of the crankshaft and its key slot where the pulley sits. Your biggest concern should be whether the crankshaft is damaged.
yeah i was wearing purple when i took those pics posted, and i didn't want to get my hoodie all dirty, so i didn't try to fit my hand down there. lol.
i'll try to get a picture of that tomorrow if i can. that's a difficult place to get a picture of because of the angle
 

RonJ

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yeah i was wearing purple when i took those pics posted, and i didn't want to get my hoodie all dirty, so i didn't try to fit my hand down there. lol.
i'll try to get a picture of that tomorrow if i can. that's a difficult place to get a picture of because of the angle
It's critical to know whether the end of the crank pulley is damaged. If so, what would be the point of installing a new pulley?
 

xHanzJay

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It's critical to know whether the end of the crank pulley is damaged. If so, what would be the point of installing a new pulley?
yeah i get what you're saying.

here's me hoping there's nothing wrong with the crank... idk if i could afford to fix something that big.
 

Hecz

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It's critical to know whether the end of the crank pulley is damaged. If so, what would be the point of installing a new pulley?
like damage to the spline?
 

nd4sped

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What he is talking about is this section of the crankshaft. Given this is a B series crankshaft but the idea is the same.

 

crash!

Avi, pull your socks up.
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Just out of curiousity, are you able to get that repaired by a machine shop? Or is it done done?
 

nd4sped

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Just out of curiousity, are you able to get that repaired by a machine shop? Or is it done done?
Depending on how deep the damage is you can by repair sleeves.
 

xHanzJay

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so i got around to fixing this today.
the crank part was not damanged. nothing really looked damaged. the keyway was fine, the threads for the bolt were all fine.

there was this silver sort of grease in the thread hole, but i'd looked up that you're supposed to have a little bit of grease? so i left it.

got everything on, used some medium (blue) threadlocker. let it sit for like 15 then drove it like 12 miles.
check the bolt and it's came loose again, but not fell out.

so here's my question:

should i clean out the grease?
should i use stronger threadlocker?
how to i keep the crank from turning when i'm trying to tighten it down? putting it in gear didnt seem to help much.
 

RonJ

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should i clean out the grease?
Yes

should i use stronger threadlocker?
No. Don't use any threadlocker.

how to i keep the crank from turning when i'm trying to tighten it down? putting it in gear didnt seem to help much.
Remember to install the timing belt guide plates in the correct orientation.

Buy/rent the crank pulley hex tool and torque the crank pulley bolt to spec (see service manual).



 

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xHanzJay

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the pulley can only go on one way because the key way has to line up. so the timing marks should line back up by themselves shouldn't they?

i knew i needed the special tool, but my dad said i didn't. the bolt is a 17mm bolt and i just used a socket wrench.
 

lethal6

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the pulley can only go on one way because the key way has to line up. so the timing marks should line back up by themselves shouldn't they?
He is talking about the discs that go on either side of the belt at the bottom. See the picture where it says how they are supposed to be facing.

i knew i needed the special tool, but my dad said i didn't. the bolt is a 17mm bolt and i just used a socket wrench.
Not talking about the bolt being a hex, he is talking about the hex lock tool needed to lock it in place while working.
 

xHanzJay

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the stuff circled in red is the only stuff that fell out. the key and the bolt fell off. the part the timing belt goes on didn't have any troubles. it's the stuff outside the timing cover.



i need the special tool just to tighten that bolt?

how do you use the tool?
 


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