now i got them idling issue woes :(

sleeper si

New Member
Registered VIP
Well the past few days my civic D16Y8 turbo is having some idling issues. The temperatures here has dropped to about -10 degrees celcius and is a cause for my idling. Although it is not severe as some members where the idle just bobs up and down continuously, mines will bobs up and down maybe about 5-6 times and then slowly idle back down to about 1000 rpms. The car was idling fine all summer and spring and recall I did have this minor quirk last winter as well. There is no CEL but leads me to think it must be something temperature related. Any ideas where to look for it?
Oh yeah it seems my windshield washer pump gave out and waiting for a warmer day to see if there is any power going to the pump or if yes looks like i will need a new pump.
 

RonJ

Banned
Have you cleaned the IACV? Are the two coolant hoses connected to the IACV? Does the CEL work?
 


sleeper si

New Member
Registered VIP
Have you cleaned the IACV? Are the two coolant hoses connected to the IACV? Does the CEL work?
yes i cleaned the iacv last summer. yes both coolant hoses are connected to the iacv. yes the CEL light does work. I feel it has to do with the temperature drop we had.
 

RonJ

Banned
Clean the IACV again and bleed the cooling system. Then go from there. If the problem persists, adjust the idle speed as per instructions in the service manual.
 


Failsafe88

gt CasaNova
Registered VIP
I'm sort of wondering if the problem may be temperature as well. The air is put into play during the tune correct. Why would a drop in temperature not affect it. I'm not saying it's not the iacv but just a thought.
 

sleeper si

New Member
Registered VIP
Clean the IACV again and bleed the cooling system. Then go from there. If the problem persists, adjust the idle speed as per instructions in the service manual.
i will bleed the cooling system and see if that solves anything.
 

sleeper si

New Member
Registered VIP
How did you bleed the cooling system?

The CEL is on.
i removed the rad cap, heater temperature set on hot, and let the car run until the fan turns on.

where is the CEL on? my fasten seatbelt and handbrake light is on.
The CEL is on when I have the ignition switch on and cranking, after it starts the CEL is off? no?
 

RonJ

Banned
i removed the rad cap, heater temperature set on hot, and let the car run until the fan turns on.
  1. Raise front end on stands
  2. Top off radiator and reservoir with coolant
  3. Open heater valve on firewall to wide open (verify)
  4. With radiator cap loose, idle engine until fan turns on twice
where is the CEL on? my fasten seatbelt and handbrake light is on.
Yeah, I confused the CEL and Brake lights.
 

sleeper si

New Member
Registered VIP
  1. Raise front end on stands
  2. Top off radiator and reservoir with coolant
  3. Open heater valve on firewall to wide open (verify)
  4. With radiator cap loose, idle engine until fan turns on twice


Yeah, I confused the CEL and Brake lights.
okay i didn't raise the car on jack stands and let it cycle the fan twice.
will do it when it is warmer outside.
 

sleeper si

New Member
Registered VIP
Was the heater valve on the firewall wide open?

Are both coolant hoses attached to the IACV?
yes the heater valve was on wide open = super hot inside heat.

yes both coolant hoses are attached to the IACV.

the fluctuation just started to happen with the dip in temperature, was running fine all spring, summer and fall.
 

RonJ

Banned
Beside rebleeding, also reclean the IACV. It may be sticking in the cold temperature.
 

sleeper si

New Member
Registered VIP
Beside rebleeding, also reclean the IACV. It may be sticking in the cold temperature.
that would have been easy to do with the stock intake manifold. Wth the edelbrock intake manifold would require some work. Last summer was thinking of replacing that IACV as it was acting up, then after cleaning it seemed to be good until now.
oh well looks like I need to set aside some time inside the garage to do it.
 


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