Shav3d
Guest
Hey everyone,
I have a 2000 Civic Si, pretty much bone stock other than bolt-on's.
I got a CEL last week that O2 sensor was bad, replaced the O2 sensor yesterday and the CEL went away. I drove the car for about 15 miles, no more CEL no issues and the car ran great.
Today I take it to go to work, 200ft down the street from my garage and it just dies. No CEL, code scanners find nothing. So I started the process.
Now I'm by myself for now so I can't check spark on the wires, however I've done the following with no luck. I will test the wires as soon as I can get someone to crank the car for me. The wires are a few years old and look ok during physical inspection. No rips/tears, everything seems in good shape with them but again, I have no way to see an actual spark by myself.
- Replaced Cap/Rotor - They were in 'ok' shape so I figured why not.
- Replaced Spark Plugs - Looked ok but put new ones in anyways.
- Fuel pump is priming. I have a fuel pressure gauge and it shows psi when the car is off and the ignition is turned on. I depressurized the fuel system and gauge went to 0psi. Re-pressurized and PSI is reading normal.
- Replaced the ignition coil (it tested ok according to spec but figured to replace it and take it back if it didn't work) ( reading 1.1ohm for +\- and 16.2kohm for +\Spring, these are in spec with the Duralast Coil which is installed in it and reads the exact same as the brand new coil I bought today that had no effect)
- Took out the ICM and had it tested at Vatozone. Tested ok, ran the test 6 times.
- Battery is charged and is brand new , tested it and it's ok.
- Took the Dizzy out to get to the ICM, all wired connections look good.
- Starter was replaced 2 months ago
Have not tested
- injectors - don't know how to yet and haven't had time to read up on how to test them.
- TPS - I had an error with it awhile back (months ago) where it threw a CEL. Cleaned it and CEL never came back. Maybe it died? Figured a CEL would come up if it did. I read somewhere that a TPS 'could' cause this issue but typically it will throw a code.
- The dizzy. I'm unsure if there is any way to test a dizzy other than confirming the other 2 parts (ICM/Coil) are working properly.
- ECM - I don't think this is it as all my other sensor are reading, no issues with lights/gauges/anything
- Ignition Switch - took it apart, look to be good, not getting any issues where I have to giggle the key to make the car electronics come on/off.
Things I've noticed
- I have 2 Tach's, one is aftermarket (obviously) the other is stock. During start up the stock tach doesn't move at all where the aftermarket one is jumping around like a spastic ADHD child. I don't recall if this is normal since I never looked at the stock tach (was covered up by a picture). However the aftermarket tach did jump around when started, but I do not recall if it jumped like this. I've seen it go all the way up to 11k RPM's and jump back down and bounce in between this range. Typically I'd see the aftermarket tach hop around rom 1k and below during start up.
This could be wires, but again they look good and I get ohm readings through the wires, but I don't know what they ohms should read since they are aftermarket wires.
Until I get another hand to test the wires I am totally out of options right now. I've been at this for 6+ hours today and am getting no progress at all.
Can someone help a girl out? Suggestions/thoughts/ideas? I'm open to anything that will help at this point in time. Hell I'll sacrifice a virgin if it makes my car run.
thanks everyone.
I have a 2000 Civic Si, pretty much bone stock other than bolt-on's.
I got a CEL last week that O2 sensor was bad, replaced the O2 sensor yesterday and the CEL went away. I drove the car for about 15 miles, no more CEL no issues and the car ran great.
Today I take it to go to work, 200ft down the street from my garage and it just dies. No CEL, code scanners find nothing. So I started the process.
Now I'm by myself for now so I can't check spark on the wires, however I've done the following with no luck. I will test the wires as soon as I can get someone to crank the car for me. The wires are a few years old and look ok during physical inspection. No rips/tears, everything seems in good shape with them but again, I have no way to see an actual spark by myself.
- Replaced Cap/Rotor - They were in 'ok' shape so I figured why not.
- Replaced Spark Plugs - Looked ok but put new ones in anyways.
- Fuel pump is priming. I have a fuel pressure gauge and it shows psi when the car is off and the ignition is turned on. I depressurized the fuel system and gauge went to 0psi. Re-pressurized and PSI is reading normal.
- Replaced the ignition coil (it tested ok according to spec but figured to replace it and take it back if it didn't work) ( reading 1.1ohm for +\- and 16.2kohm for +\Spring, these are in spec with the Duralast Coil which is installed in it and reads the exact same as the brand new coil I bought today that had no effect)
- Took out the ICM and had it tested at Vatozone. Tested ok, ran the test 6 times.
- Battery is charged and is brand new , tested it and it's ok.
- Took the Dizzy out to get to the ICM, all wired connections look good.
- Starter was replaced 2 months ago
Have not tested
- injectors - don't know how to yet and haven't had time to read up on how to test them.
- TPS - I had an error with it awhile back (months ago) where it threw a CEL. Cleaned it and CEL never came back. Maybe it died? Figured a CEL would come up if it did. I read somewhere that a TPS 'could' cause this issue but typically it will throw a code.
- The dizzy. I'm unsure if there is any way to test a dizzy other than confirming the other 2 parts (ICM/Coil) are working properly.
- ECM - I don't think this is it as all my other sensor are reading, no issues with lights/gauges/anything
- Ignition Switch - took it apart, look to be good, not getting any issues where I have to giggle the key to make the car electronics come on/off.
Things I've noticed
- I have 2 Tach's, one is aftermarket (obviously) the other is stock. During start up the stock tach doesn't move at all where the aftermarket one is jumping around like a spastic ADHD child. I don't recall if this is normal since I never looked at the stock tach (was covered up by a picture). However the aftermarket tach did jump around when started, but I do not recall if it jumped like this. I've seen it go all the way up to 11k RPM's and jump back down and bounce in between this range. Typically I'd see the aftermarket tach hop around rom 1k and below during start up.
This could be wires, but again they look good and I get ohm readings through the wires, but I don't know what they ohms should read since they are aftermarket wires.
Until I get another hand to test the wires I am totally out of options right now. I've been at this for 6+ hours today and am getting no progress at all.
Can someone help a girl out? Suggestions/thoughts/ideas? I'm open to anything that will help at this point in time. Hell I'll sacrifice a virgin if it makes my car run.
thanks everyone.
