buying 99 ek with b16a motor

aaron99ek

New Member
im buying a 99ek with a b16a motor that doesn't run. its blown an sounds like a spun rod bearing. im not willing to spend the time an money to fix cause im not experienced enough to fix it. im hoping an pretty sure this motor is already obd2 since I live an PA an cant pass inspection unless motor matches year or is newer, bottom line is I have a friend willing to trade me the blown motor for b18b1 that is obd2. my main question is will this motor work with ecu in the car already? an will I have todo new wire extensions an wire in new sensors since the harness is already wired for b16a motor, I have researched an seen I will have to repin a few things back at the harness, I am new to swapping no doubt. I just researched and found multiple answers. plus all the post I found are about parts needed, not how this whole ecu things work, iguess everyone who did this swap did this years ago and I cant find relevant info. PLEASE DO NOT RESPOND IF U DO NOT KNOW WHAT UR TALKING ABOUT. iknow enough to swap the motor. what is confusing me is the ecu problem an making it legit enough to make it pass PA emissions. iknow dude took 99 ex harness and converted it to make it fit the b16. im sure it has the p2p ecu in it to run the b16. im wondering will tht be able to run stock b18b1? please help me out!! thanks a lot. and if it does need a new ecu does anyone know how to remove the immobolizer in P75 ecu. or another ecu that will work with obd2 Thanks
 

aaron99ek

New Member
anyone?? any info will help on swapping b18b1 into car that is already wired for b16. im sure a lot of it is plug and play. the wiring stuff will not be a problem. my main concern is ecu hook up for new swap. and ecu to use. any help will work. car is ready for b18b1 swap. axles,engine harness, motor mounts, just ECU is main problem. ANY INFO THANKS!!!!
 


aaron99ek

New Member
any experienced swappers please reply any info will help. looking toget motor in the next week. I want to get it to pass emissions an that's it, not to make it fast and wanna keep it obd2, I just want to know will my current ecu work?? and will I need todo any major wiring tasks. iknow I might need obd2b to obd2a harness adapter cause integra motor might not be 99 or newer. any person with knowledge please give me input, igot the car for a steal an im sure u would be happy to hear about it!! I have major plans for the car, but first priority is getting it running with no codes and pass inspection. after that car is getting completely rebuilt around the motor. gonna make it a clean *** oem ek
 

mc360

boosted hx
Registered VIP
5+ Year Member
Im pretty sure a p2p ecu is an ex d16 ecu and will not work, if your getting a full swap just buy a b18b1 ecu for your car that matchs your tranny. If your friend wants your b16 he will need the b16 ecu or a chipped ecu to run it when its rebuilt so just swap him ecus
 


aaron99ek

New Member
alright. thanks that helping,, so I haven't bought the car yet so I haven't started to rip it apart. so ur telling me the dude probly used a p2t ecu to run the b16?? u have to use same ecu for same motor? is that normally how it goes? u cant use single cam ecu to run DOHC engines?? I was gonna go that route of getting the LS ecu but heard about the immobilzer issure. im sure the teg engine isn't 99 or newer but since its obd2a do u think I can still pass emissions with out a problem?? im getting the car for a steal. ITs a pretty clean car. interior an exterior is really nice only problem is the b16 is blown from dude running it with lack of oil. im picking the car up for 500 bucks.
 

aaron99ek

New Member
The 99 ek already has the b16a swap in the car. so all motor mounts axles everything is good. The kid im trading motors with, we are just doing straight uo motor exchanges. no axles no nothing just block and head. Only issues im having is what ecu to install in the car. iknow I probly have to be more detailed with these questions but im trying to debug most of them befor I purchase the car. im getting it next weds day and im gonna make a new thread with pics either swapping the motor with a b18b1 or fixing the b16a. hoping to just swap so Idont have to spend any money to fix the b16a. be pretty sweet to get the car up and running for under like 700 and get it inspected. iwill have mad money to OEM the **** out of it and dump a little cash into an all motor set up for now. ijus wanna get it running no codes no hassel. pass inspection and make a clean ek out of it
 

Wreckless Hype

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5+ Year Member
alright. thanks that helping,, so I haven't bought the car yet so I haven't started to rip it apart. so ur telling me the dude probly used a p2t ecu to run the b16?? u have to use same ecu for same motor? is that normally how it goes? u cant use single cam ecu to run DOHC engines?? I was gonna go that route of getting the LS ecu but heard about the immobilzer issure. im sure the teg engine isn't 99 or newer but since its obd2a do u think I can still pass emissions with out a problem?? im getting the car for a steal. ITs a pretty clean car. interior an exterior is really nice only problem is the b16 is blown from dude running it with lack of oil. im picking the car up for 500 bucks.
You'll need the ECU for the B18B1, the ECU for the B16 will not work properly. And as long as your car is OBD2 and communicates properly over the OBD2 port they plug into under the dash, I can't see you having too much trouble passing inspection. I had a B18C1 in my CX hatch which anyone with half a brain could see that wasn't right. Totally gutted, drove it through state inspection, slapped a sticker in and left. This is NJ I'm talking about, but still, I don't think we're too far off on inspections.
 

aaron99ek

New Member
right on buddy. yea I was hoping for that answer. I hope the kid who owned it didn't screw anything up. like making it obd1 or anything. but if all is right im hoping its still obd2b. so I can just swap the motor out extend some wires if needed and maybe add a few things if needed. get a obd2b to obd2a jumper harness, I researched the engine and only obd2 B16a is the SIR motor. and I don't know if that is whats in it. The guy im getting it from bought it from someone else and blew it up running high revs molesting the vtec. he has no clue about the engine either. I drove it when it was running was a pretty quick. but im over the time and money its gonna take to rebuild it, so I think LS swap best and easy way around it. Is swapping out ECUs hard? like whats gonna be the most difficult part toget the motor swapped? and the car up and running with no codes? my brother done swaps befor and he thinks we can just toss the motor in and be golden.
 

Wreckless Hype

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right on buddy. yea I was hoping for that answer. I hope the kid who owned it didn't screw anything up. like making it obd1 or anything. but if all is right im hoping its still obd2b. so I can just swap the motor out extend some wires if needed and maybe add a few things if needed. get a obd2b to obd2a jumper harness, I researched the engine and only obd2 B16a is the SIR motor. and I don't know if that is whats in it. The guy im getting it from bought it from someone else and blew it up running high revs molesting the vtec. he has no clue about the engine either. I drove it when it was running was a pretty quick. but im over the time and money its gonna take to rebuild it, so I think LS swap best and easy way around it. Is swapping out ECUs hard? like whats gonna be the most difficult part toget the motor swapped? and the car up and running with no codes? my brother done swaps befor and he thinks we can just toss the motor in and be golden.
Dropping a motor in is the easy part. Making sure everything is pinned correctly is a royal PITA, unplugging the ECU and plugging in a new one is a matter of taking off the kick panel on the passenger side and a couple bolts, it's really easy. I used to unplug my ECU and take it with me when I left my car at malls n s**t.

The B16A has been around for a long time also. I think it was launch in 89 and came through to 98, so there's a bunch of years it could be. You can check the prints up on the head (assuming they did not swap the head on it) and it should give you the date the head was made.
 

aaron99ek

New Member
so I just talked to the guy im getting the motor from. he has an LS obd2a motor and ecu for me. would buying a OBD2B to A jumper harness be my best bet to make this swap easy as possible? from converting the engine harness from a B16A to B18B1 be a lot of modding to make it fit the b18b?
 

aaron99ek

New Member
Wreckless you the man, thanks for helping me out with the input. im gonna need a lot more of it when I start tearing it apart. do u think, if worst case scenario getting a car from obd1 back to obd2 will be a hassle??
 

Wreckless Hype

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5+ Year Member
It's a bit of a pain, yea. I know from 2 to 1 there is just a step down harness, but it doesn't work the other way around. I hate wiring, but the right thing to do there would be swap the harness and just make sure it's all correct.
 

aaron99ek

New Member
see I found a 2b to 2a conversion harness. if so repining a couple connectors wont be a big deal. I have tons of forums saved that go step by step in converting 2B to 2A. and about extending some wires but that's all for stock ex harness. this harness already is converted for B series engine so I think a lot of the hassle is already gonna be done. The wiring is gonna be the easy part for me. I am a electrician. a couple DC series circuits are gonna be a breeze to extend an rewire. My main concern is having the right parts and knowing they are right before I jump into it.. AN BIGGEST MOST IMPORTANT is PASSING INSPECTION. imean I guess i will know more when I start stripping it down and putting it back together. im just trying to get ready for everything by next weds.
 

Wreckless Hype

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Well, a buddy I knew back in the day pulled out a stock LS motor to go with a B18C and he's horrible at wiring. His B18B was pretty much junk so he was keeping parts like sensors and crap. Long story short, he ended up leaving most of the sensors connected to the harness and taking pictures of the general area where a few came out so when he was going back in, he knew what had to go where, and if he had to replace one, it was just unplug, then plug into the new one. Seemed to work for him, was no issue really. Or use tape and label, did that for the TPS since it's a pain to get off the TB. Just look at what you got and look at what's going in. The sensors are pretty similar and located in a lot of the same places. Just going to take a little bit to identify what's what, not too hard.
 


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