Best audio?
- Thread starter Jordan98
- Start date
Jordan98
New Member
Thanks man, I appreciate it. Didn't know there was a certain section, my mistake.I've been running a single 12" JL Audio W3 for years on some Kenwood amp, and I love it.
Moved to the audio section
First of all, "clean deep bass" may be relative to each person so be prepared to come across different opinions. Here is mine.
Sound is suppose to be clear and balanced at all levels with solid bass response within the cabin. The more excessive external "boom" the more imbalanced your sound will become. Thus, a high quality 10" sub in the 300-500 RMS range is perfect for solid clean bass in a Civic. A 12" sub, like XpL0d3r suggested, will sound deeper but need a bigger box than a 10". I prefer and need to have trunk space, so I custom built my sub box to fit in the corner and have the optimal cubic footage for the subs performance. I also custom fabricated trunk panels for easy access to the spare tire area with the sub installed. I had another sub box roughly .1 cu.ft. larger than this box but this one made a bigger than expected improvement in bass response. So if you dont choose to build your own box, make sure whichever you buy is within specifications of the sub you choose. Not everyone needs to go the route of customizing, but it may come down to your needs.
FYI, only factor in RMS wattage. Max wattage is virtually useless unless you're building a competition type set-up.
Sub Box Volume (cubic footage) = H (height) x W (width) x D (depth) divided by 1,728
Do you have any brands of subs and amps already in mind? You cant go wrong with JL Audio subs and Alpine amps.
Sound is suppose to be clear and balanced at all levels with solid bass response within the cabin. The more excessive external "boom" the more imbalanced your sound will become. Thus, a high quality 10" sub in the 300-500 RMS range is perfect for solid clean bass in a Civic. A 12" sub, like XpL0d3r suggested, will sound deeper but need a bigger box than a 10". I prefer and need to have trunk space, so I custom built my sub box to fit in the corner and have the optimal cubic footage for the subs performance. I also custom fabricated trunk panels for easy access to the spare tire area with the sub installed. I had another sub box roughly .1 cu.ft. larger than this box but this one made a bigger than expected improvement in bass response. So if you dont choose to build your own box, make sure whichever you buy is within specifications of the sub you choose. Not everyone needs to go the route of customizing, but it may come down to your needs.
FYI, only factor in RMS wattage. Max wattage is virtually useless unless you're building a competition type set-up.
Sub Box Volume (cubic footage) = H (height) x W (width) x D (depth) divided by 1,728
Do you have any brands of subs and amps already in mind? You cant go wrong with JL Audio subs and Alpine amps.
Jordan98
New Member
Thanks for the replies, and HEX it looks really nice! I actually went to bestbuy over the weekend to go ahead and get my speakers in the car replaced (so the door speakers and the back panels) and I ended up making a purchase of subs today on Amazon. I ordered 2 10" Pioneer subs (W260S4 10") I'm hoping they are what everyone says they are. I will be making a custom box to fix to where I'm able to be able to take out the spare tire or vice versa. I am still lost on what type of amp that I need to purchase, or what would really give me the power to handle them. Like you said, the bigger the boom, the more 'unclear' it becomes.
What brand of speaker did you have installed?
Those single voice coil Pioneer subs are rated at 350W RMS, so if you want a straight forward set-up then buy a 600(or above) Total RMS 2-channel amp. Again, you cant go wrong with Alpine amps. You should research how amps and subs work so you can make a better educated decision on a proper amp.
Here's my simple explanation:
- subs RMS ratings should be around the same as the amp used to power them.
- If your subs take more RMS watts than the amp, make sure its a quality amp so it doesnt overheat and crank it to your hearts content.
- If your amp pumps more RMS watts than your subs, make sure you dont crank the amp to high or you'll blow the subs sooner than later.
Im glad to help. Enjoy building your first system. Again, ignore max wattage ratings as its virtually useless. All your speakers rate at 40 watts RMS, which is reasonable. I hope BestBuy gave you a reasonable deal. Make sure you dont over crank those speakers. Pioneers are reasonable entry level speakers but dont handle heavy lows for long before distorting. Did you purchase a new radio as well?