Code 16 - Fuel Injectors. Brand new Beck Arnley injectors Freshly installed

[jdubu420]

Hello,

I recently put over 1600 worth of new parts onto my already fresh 92 civic vx.

Here is what I have done so far:
Brand new injectors replaced a Month ago.
New fuel rail.
New fuel filter.
Fuel pressure regulator.
Main fuel relay.
Idle air control valve.
Cold air intake

The only known issues I had previously was the main drive belt, and the Vtec Silenoid is leaking a bit of oil and needs re sealed. The EGR valve also needs replaced. The two cads are somewhat clogged and I am planning to install a new exhaust system.

The check engine light is coming on seemingly randomly and I can feel a change in power moments before it throws code 16. When I turn the car off and back on it stays off most of the tine. But on a longer trip more than 10 miles I feel the power change and the check engine light comes on... and stays on until I turn the car off.

I took it to the local Honda dealership and they had no ideas on why it was throwing the code. Does anyone have any ideas? I can tell that it is indeed running on 3 cylinders randomly when one of the injectors acts up. I was thinking maybe a clip was loose, or damaged.

I bought the best injectors Rock Auto had to offer and had professional help installing them. But perhaps we did something wrong in the process?

I really love my little car and if I can't figure this out I'm in big trouble. Please... please think hard and if you have any idea please share your thoughts.

THANK YOU so much, I will love you forever if you help me figure this out.

 

[XpL0d3r]

Sounds like the issue is with one of the injectors. I've heard Roc Auto is hit or miss, many mislabeled parts, etc. Do you have all the correct fuel injectors? Check the clips, make sure all the O-rings and seal rings are there and in good shape. Maybe this will help troubleshoot your issue:

 

[jdubu420]

I don't think the injectors are bad. They have been working fine and are for sure the right ones. I know the o-rings and the seals are ok we double checked them and light lubed them as advised.

I don't know how to check the clips. I was thinking about taking the clips off and putting some di-electric grease in them? Or clean the connectors somehow? Before I left for work I pushed the clips down and did not get a check engine light. So maybe they are just loose and need replaced?

 

[mc360]

I had this problem when I made some adapters for my aftermarket injectors, I had to get out and wiggle the clips and restart the car and the code would clear. It ended up being my crimp connectors so I soldered them. Probably just unclip your injectors and reseat the plugs or you have a faulty injector.

I think on the 5th gen civics the injector clips should just be a tab you press and pull on the clip to remove, check for loose wires

 

[jdubu420]

I had this problem when I made some adapters for my aftermarket injectors, I had to get out and wiggle the clips and restart the car and the code would clear. It ended up being my crimp connectors so I soldered them. Probably just unclip your injectors and reseat the plugs or you have a faulty injector.

I think on the 5th gen civics the injector clips should just be a tab you press and pull on the clip to remove, check for loose wires

I think the vibration is making them come loose for just a split second every now and then. I bought new clips, so we will see if that fixes the issue. Thank you for all your help guys. This was really freaking me out.

 

[jdubu420]

Scratch that... I noticed something weird. When the light comes on I noticed the car starts to shake, and the loss of power is permanent until I turn the car off and then back on. Pretty sure one cylinder isn't getting fuel or is failing when the light on.

The issue does seem to happen more frequently when going up hill...

Anyone have any comments?

I was told it may be the ECU does this seem likely to anyone? And if so... what ECU should I buy and where should I buy it. I don't want to have to try three or four to find a good ECU....

 

[XpL0d3r]

I would see if you can find a similar ECU and swap as a test before going out and spending money. People blame the ECU as an easy way out and many times -- it's not the ECU.

Did you try the troubleshooting steps I provided? This will help determine whether it's an injector, the ECU, or wiring in between.

 

[jdubu420]

I was told it may be the ECU does this seem likely to anyone? And if so... what ECU should I buy and where should I buy it. I don't want to have to try three or four to find a good ECU....

Well I was told the codes ALWAYS clear when you turn the car off. If you turn the key off only one click, the the check engine light goes solid for a second, then blinks the first number of the code, pauses, then blinks the second number of the code. So you never need a tool to check the codes.

I did push on the clips but have not had time until now to take them all off and put them back on. I plan to do that tonight. The problem is infrequent and turning the car off and then back on always fixes the power and shaking problem while the light is on. Which makes me think logically it must not be the connection or the injectors. But the computer may be seeing some false info and disabling one of the injectors.

I looked around everywhere for an ECU and the only one I could find was only 150 bucks. They are 300 to 400 on rock auto, and all of them are out of stock. Since the VX'S are so rare, I decided to go ahead and grab it while one is available even if it is not a problem yet. If it turns into a problem at least I have a tested and good ECU for cheap.

 

[HeX]

You should consider investing in an inexpensive code reader and leave it in the car to use when one of those moments occur. I got a solid one for $15 shipped.

By the way, I just checked eBay and they have one VX ECU for $130 and another for $140. I personally feel more comfortable with a Honda factory ECU, even if its used, over an aftermarket one.

 

[jdubu420]

You should consider investing in an inexpensive code reader and leave it in the car to use when one of those moments occur. I got a solid one for $15 shipped.

By the way, I just checked eBay and they have one VX ECU for $130 and another for $140. I personally feel more comfortable with a Honda factory ECU, even if its used, over an aftermarket one.

Oh yes I completely agree and understand why you would trust an OEM ECU over a refurbished or aftermarket one. I did buy an OEM one. Just from a reliable business. I don't trust ebay much for returns or testing their products. Payed basically 20 dollars more to get it from a reputable online dealer with a damn good return policy.