New Filter and Washers, Banjo Nut Leaking

jackdog1

New Member
I just replaced my fuel filter in my '97 civic EX with a new one, but I can't seem to get the top banjo nut to stop leaking. I tried the original washers, as suggested for hondas, and they leaked a bit. I swapped them for the ones that came with the filter (also copper), and they leaked even more from above and below the banjo connector. I have the nut at 132 in-lbs.

Should I try to get aluminum Honda OEM washers, or should I just tighten the bolt more? (and yes, I did clean the bolt and connector first)
 

Diana Nam

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jackdog1 said:
I just replacesounds liek d my fuel filter in my '97 civic EX with a new one, but I can't seem to get the top banjo nut to stop leaking. I tried the original washers, as suggested for hondas, and they leaked a bit. I swapped them for the ones that came with the filter (also copper), and they leaked even more from above and below the banjo connector. I have the nut at 132 in-lbs.

Should I try to get aluminum Honda OEM washers, or should I just tighten the bolt more? (and yes, I did clean the bolt and connector first)
Click to expand...
you should try tighten it abit to see if it stops
 


jackdog1

New Member
Diana Nam said:
you should try tighten it abit to see if it stops
Click to expand...
How much can I safely tighten it?

If Honda OEM is aluminum and that's softer than copper, I'm guessing the torque rating in my repair manual might be a bit low then?

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Diana Nam

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jackdog1 said:
How much can I safely tighten it?

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Click to expand...
lol i just make it tight i don't bother with "torquing" it not really necessary for those things, just use your common sense when your tightening it no parts or threads are ever strip proof so. if it feels like its gonna strip then stop... otherwise it would be dumb on your part for trying to make it tighter and tighter
 


Diana Nam

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if it still leaks try leak try clean it a bit if the mating surface is a bit rusty or what
 

nd4sped

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  1. Drain the oil again and let it sit for a good 30 minutes.
  2. Clean out the bolt hole on the oil pan.
  3. Clean the drain plug and washer.
  4. Apply some Honda Bond or your favorite RTV to the drain plug bolt threads. nearest the head of the bolt.
    • Do Not apply to the bottom threads as you don't want any RTV to get into the oil pan as it can break up and get sucked into the oil pump and circulated throughout the system. This stuff will apply itself a few microns thick on bearing surfaces causing accelerated wear. Same reason they say not to use red cleaning towels during reassemble, red rag of death
  5. Tighten only hand tight (approximately 7lbft torque), if it continues to rotate after getting more than hand tight then you most likely stripped out the threads and will require a self tapping drain bolt replacement. They can be bought at ANY car parts store.
    • If you do have to go this option than I recommend repeating these steps as you need to put the threads with the new bolt and then remove to clean out any metallic debris pushed into the oil pan.
 

jackdog1

New Member
@Spooled@ said:
  1. Drain the oil again and let it sit for a good 30 minutes.
  2. Clean out the bolt hole on the oil pan.
  3. Clean the drain plug and washer.
  4. Apply some Honda Bond or your favorite RTV to the drain plug bolt threads. nearest the head of the bolt.
    • Do Not apply to the bottom threads as you don't want any RTV to get into the oil pan as it can break up and get sucked into the oil pump and circulated throughout the system. This stuff will apply itself a few microns thick on bearing surfaces causing accelerated wear. Same reason they say not to use red cleaning towels during reassemble, red rag of death
  5. Tighten only hand tight (approximately 7lbft torque), if it continues to rotate after getting more than hand tight then you most likely stripped out the threads and will require a self tapping drain bolt replacement. They can be bought at ANY car parts store.
    • If you do have to go this option than I recommend repeating these steps as you need to put the threads with the new bolt and then remove to clean out any metallic debris pushed into the oil pan.
Click to expand...
???

Sent from my XT1064 using Tapatalk
 

Diana Nam

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Registered VIP
@Spooled@ said:
  1. Drain the oil again and let it sit for a good 30 minutes.
  2. Clean out the bolt hole on the oil pan.
  3. Clean the drain plug and washer.
  4. Apply some Honda Bond or your favorite RTV to the drain plug bolt threads. nearest the head of the bolt.
    • Do Not apply to the bottom threads as you don't want any RTV to get into the oil pan as it can break up and get sucked into the oil pump and circulated throughout the system. This stuff will apply itself a few microns thick on bearing surfaces causing accelerated wear. Same reason they say not to use red cleaning towels during reassemble, red rag of death
  5. Tighten only hand tight (approximately 7lbft torque), if it continues to rotate after getting more than hand tight then you most likely stripped out the threads and will require a self tapping drain bolt replacement. They can be bought at ANY car parts store.
    • If you do have to go this option than I recommend repeating these steps as you need to put the threads with the new bolt and then remove to clean out any metallic debris pushed into the oil pan.
Click to expand...
he's leaking gasoline at the banjo fitting on top of the fuel filter
 

nd4sped

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I totally thought you were talking about the oil pan bolt. Sorry, misread something somewhere.
 
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