b16 turbo / LSV turbo

mindlessadven

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Just got a question towards power wise. I have a full b16 motor, and I have a full LS. I trying to go boost and make Atleast 300+ hp for the spring coming and more later on. But not sure to go full b16 w/ LS tranny boost, or LS block and tranny with b16 head boosted. (built) Not sure what power each brings, just trying to get some opinions. And i figured b16 ia cheaper and way similar to GSR so that's why i picked it up. But i know b16 is pretty low on torque side, so just no too sure on where at the end of the day which will be the build that is going to provide the most power.
 

Diana Nam

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Just got a question towards power wise. I have a full b16 motor, and I have a full LS. I trying to go boost and make Atleast 300+ hp for the spring coming and more later on. But not sure to go full b16 w/ LS tranny boost, or LS block and tranny with b16 head boosted. (built) Not sure what power each brings, just trying to get some opinions. And i figured b16 ia cheaper and way similar to GSR so that's why i picked it up. But i know b16 is pretty low on torque side, so just no too sure on where at the end of the day which will be the build that is going to provide the most power.
well the bigger bottom end will help you to be more efficient in power making department. lol this the sole reason i went with 2.2L motors, i've seen lots of high hp ls and b16 and hybrids as well its really up to what you like more.
 


nd4sped

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First off, use your S4C tranny from the B16. Dont use the longer geared LS, this is a huge misconception. Just because its longer geared it is not going to give you better traction, less wheel spin, etc. Power is power and the more you make, managing that power to the ground is another battle all its own. Usually involves a lot of suspension upgrades and tweeking. But #1 of all is your foot, you can mange how much power you put down by managing the throttle.

Next, if you dont want to build the LSVTEC and spend a lot more money then stick with the B16. You will make more power all day, everyday with the VTEC option. Regardless of the 0.2L difference in displacement. But if you can afford a turbo setup, then you can afford to dime out to get quality parts for the LSVTEC build.
 

Diana Nam

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First off, use your S4C tranny from the B16. Dont use the longer geared LS, this is a huge misconception. Just because its longer geared it is not going to give you better traction, less wheel spin, etc. Power is power and the more you make, managing that power to the ground is another battle all its own. Usually involves a lot of suspension upgrades and tweeking. But #1 of all is your foot, you can mange how much power you put down by managing the throttle.

Next, if you dont want to build the LSVTEC and spend a lot more money then stick with the B16. You will make more power all day, everyday with the VTEC option. Regardless of the 0.2L difference in displacement. But if you can afford a turbo setup, then you can afford to dime out to get quality parts for the LSVTEC build.
very well said. also to add to what you said generally longer gear just keeps you in boost for longer then gearboxes with shorter gears. but poeple sometimes mis and match gears to fit their setup better.
 


nd4sped

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very well said. also to add to what you said generally longer gear just keeps you in boost for longer then gearboxes with shorter gears. but poeple sometimes mis and match gears to fit their setup better.
This is where throttle management and tuning can keep you in boost at all times. Shifting and keeping RPM up can also aid in this affair. This technique is widely done in drifting. Now I would only use this boost map when racing, not for daily use.
 

Diana Nam

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This is where throttle management and tuning can keep you in boost at all times. Shifting and keeping RPM up can also aid in this affair. This technique is widely done in drifting. Now I would only use this boost map when racing, not for daily use.
very true too didn't even think about that lol. but then again if you have some type of ems you can do dual map setup. settings for street use and another r setting that it will switch to at certain rpm/condition when your racing i what to try this setup on my s300.
 

nd4sped

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very true too didn't even think about that lol. but then again if you have some type of ems you can do dual map setup. settings for street use and another r setting that it will switch to at certain rpm/condition when your racing i what to try this setup on my s300.
You're not going to find that kind of setting on the S300. For all the time I have spent tuning it I wished that there was a an auto map switching function. Best you can do is make live changes but loading a new map will cause the car to die and force you restart the engine.

You will only have a low rpm and high rpm map that will change depending on load.

I don't believe they even implemented such a thing even with the S300J upgrade.
 

Diana Nam

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You're not going to find that kind of setting on the S300. For all the time I have spent tuning it I wished that there was a an auto map switching function. Best you can do is make live changes but loading a new map will cause the car to die and force you restart the engine.

You will only have a low rpm and high rpm map that will change depending on load.

I don't believe they even implemented such a thing even with the S300J upgrade.
hum... that sucks major d**k!!!!!!!!!! gues i gotta up grade. what about the new one v3(white board)
 

nd4sped

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hum... that sucks major d**k!!!!!!!!!! guess i gotta upgrade. what about the new one v3(white board)
Sounds like the whiteboard Realtime update is upgraded. There is also a lot of newer features that I like. Looks like I'll be buying a new S300.
"The s300 can be updated in real-time with the engine running without affecting the operation of the vehicle. This means that calibrations and changes can be uploaded to the ECU very quickly (2 seconds for a new calibration, a fraction of a second for anything else), without interrupting the operation of the engine. Changes made in the SManager software are uploaded to the ECU instantly and you can see the effect immediately. "
https://www.hondata.com/s300
 

Diana Nam

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Sounds like the whiteboard Realtime update is upgraded. There is also a lot of newer features that I like. Looks like I'll be buying a new S300.
"The s300 can be updated in real-time with the engine running without affecting the operation of the vehicle. This means that calibrations and changes can be uploaded to the ECU very quickly (2 seconds for a new calibration, a fraction of a second for anything else), without interrupting the operation of the engine. Changes made in the SManager software are uploaded to the ECU instantly and you can see the effect immediately. "
https://www.hondata.com/s300
oooo that is awsome updating in real time without having to restart the motor afterwards thats a huge improvments. the blue tooth function for the android/iphone is pretty awsome too
 

mindlessadven

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So LS block, b16 head, b16 tranny, turbo. Going to go turbo, and before that way comes, I want my motor to be semi built. I understand how blocks can be bored, resleeved, stronger, etc. but don't quite get which each purpose if for and what is better for what. Not asking for answers but asking for opinions and somewhere to learn more about this. But just want to know what's a good route for the block for when the times comes to turbo and add the V-head. Don't know if hitting the max bore is best for boost, or if making it as strong as you can.
 

Diana Nam

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So LS block, b16 head, b16 tranny, turbo. Going to go turbo, and before that way comes, I want my motor to be semi built. I understand how blocks can be bored, resleeved, stronger, etc. but don't quite get which each purpose if for and what is better for what. Not asking for answers but asking for opinions and somewhere to learn more about this. But just want to know what's a good route for the block for when the times comes to turbo and add the V-head. Don't know if hitting the max bore is best for boost, or if making it as strong as you can.
bigger bore increases cylinder volume and will be able to hold more air/fuel mixure in there bigger crank stroke help with increasing total engine displacement. sleeving is done so you can run higher compression,more boost and etc. stock sleeves don't have enough material to handle all those extra heat and pressure. turbo setup produces more heat and increases cylinder pressure more then what the motor was producing in stock form.

you would want as much meat as possible for your sleeves to prevent from cranking same goes for internals they just shatter from too much denotation or your rods will just crumb under the extreme cylinder pressure if your sleeves are still intacted
 
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