perfect setup right there that setup should good to 300+hp, and at 200hp you would be in best efficiency range
D16y8 Turbo Choice?
- Thread starter daperez13
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nd4sped
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Sold it for more than I bought it so I can't complain really.
Purchased it new with the Runner kit and a load of alum, SS and steel filler rod. Bought for $2300, sold for $2700.
i neeedddd onee so badly so i can weld my bov flang and makemy downpipe thats pretty good made your money back plus more
nd4sped
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After I sold the TIG I picked up a flux core welder about a year later. Made a downpipe from a used 2006 Honda Civic SI exhaust piping.i neeedddd onee so badly so i can weld my bov flang and makemy downpipe thats pretty good made your money back plus more
I can vouch the t3 60 trim .42/.48 will be a perfect turbo for streets and lower power goal. They are rated for 300hp but that's max not 300+ hp like Diana Nam states,another user on dseries.org made 279hp on a y8 and said the turbo was running out of breath, if you upgrade one of the housings or compressor/turbine blades later on you can see more power.
he can just go up size the compressor wheel and housing, depending what he gets he can make more hp and still have the same spool time as before.
daperez13
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We've been looking for a decent junk-yard T3 .42/.48 but we cannot find one, yet...even if it has to be rebuilt. There was one on an 84 300 ZX with a .63 turbine but there was oil all over it and the exhaust housing had the 7-bolt pattern. Most of the Saabs there are 90's and above as well as the Volvos, T-birds, Mustangs Audis, so forth.
Any suggestions on any other year and vehicle with T3's?
The IHI VF turbos have an odd three bolt flange and are ridiculously expensive anyway. A TD05 14b with a simple flange adaptor will be the easier and budget friendly way to go for a setup like this.
The 3 bolt mount is a Subaru specific flange, the VF series turbos are not TD04 turbines they are RHF5 turbines made by IHI. All MHI turbines are designated TD0X as far as passenger cars go and the 02-07 WRX got the dinky TD04L 13T. Why change the ENTIRE turbine housing when a simple manifold adapter and some simple exhaust work does the trick? Not to mention AGAIN that the VF turbos are more expensive. And what does one video on youtube have to do with it?
Not arguing, just giving you options to go in the right direction.
daperez13
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We recently found a TB03 50 Trim .42/.48 which should fit a T3 turbo manifold. It's not a 60 Trim like we would of liked but it'll do for now. Again, we're only looking for 200 HP.
Definitely appreciate it brother. You are one of the few that actually provides real insight, I've read a lot of your post. Thank you.
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actually if you look up the VF turbos they are classiied as tdo4 if you look up other td04 it still has the same 3 bolt flange audi k03 and k04 are are tdo4 flanged
i actually looked it up and other tdo4 turbo they all have that same 3 bolt flange but anyways @daperez13 you should give that turbo a try and see what you get but you should try and look up the compressor map for that turbo.
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I don't have to look them up, I've rebuilt and sold several of each. TDO4 is a turbine designation not a flange style. VF turbos are made by IHI, Subaru used MHI turbos (the tdo4l turbine which is smaller than the TDO5 14b and 16g and the difference between those two is the compressor wheel and flange outlet dimensions but the flange bolt pattern is the same). Audi koX turbos are old kkk turbos who were bought out by BorgWarner a few years back. The STi, Legacy GT got the IHI 39,40,46,48 and 52 in the states. NONE of them are Mitsubishi turbos.
You can see here, RHF5 for the Subie, TDO5 for Mitsu.
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daperez13
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So we found a used AiResearch TB0382, looks like it's an A/R .42 compressor, 50 Trim. It's both water and oil cooled but according to some research, it seems as though the water lines do not 'have' to be connected.
(1) Is that true, or do they in fact, need to be connected?
(2) If they do, what's the best place to connect them to?
Although our goal is only 200 HP, it seems as though the stock internals will be ok. However, I'm reading about oil issues with the D16Y8 motor. The oil pump has been ported but not shimmed.
(1) Will the D16Z6 or ZC crankshaft fit right in without any modifications?
Based on the compressor map, this turbo should be good to roughly 250 HP.
(1) Is this a good candidate considering it was purchased for $200 (assuming it's in good condition)? I say this because...yes, there are better turbos out there but for more dough.
(2) What will spool be like and what RPM will it drop off at? Red line is at 7K.
(1) Is that true, or do they in fact, need to be connected?
(2) If they do, what's the best place to connect them to?
Although our goal is only 200 HP, it seems as though the stock internals will be ok. However, I'm reading about oil issues with the D16Y8 motor. The oil pump has been ported but not shimmed.
(1) Will the D16Z6 or ZC crankshaft fit right in without any modifications?
Based on the compressor map, this turbo should be good to roughly 250 HP.
(1) Is this a good candidate considering it was purchased for $200 (assuming it's in good condition)? I say this because...yes, there are better turbos out there but for more dough.
(2) What will spool be like and what RPM will it drop off at? Red line is at 7K.
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Looks like it's off a SAAAAB 900. I'd get it rebuilt since its roughly 25 years old. Internally gated to approx 6psi. Have the wastegate tested and make sure it's good. I'd say it will fully spool around 2800-3200 rpm. Running the coolant lines is a good idea for longevity. There's a couple good writeups on the net about setting up coolant lines on a civic.