CHILD'S *EK* ... finally i have an EK

[CHILD]

its easy to go up in hp often when your list of upgrading is very small lol

it's easy to go up on power because the oversized parts on an engine not built for it isn't going to make s**t for power initially, and when you start with all the parts that are designed to make huge amounts of power bolted onto an engine that doesn't make squat for power, you have a shitty running car until you finally reach that "due time and end point".

So you purposely want to make your car worse for the meantime just so you wont have to upgrade anything later on. You're running boost.....the main things you need to focus on are your block and your turbo to prevent from upgrading. You don't have to touch anything else. 500 isn't some high goal to reach even for that to be your minimal output. You still have nothing to warrant using parts that don't even fit when the correct things you need are readily available. Running large charge pipe is going to increase lag, not running the turbo and exhaust manifold you need for your goal is going to create a crazy high expense, and running a custom one manifold (I would assume a large one since you asked about mine) will help create more power on less boost, but if the block isn't built for that, it's a waste or a ticking time bomb.

 

[Diana Nam]

it's easy to go up on power because the oversized parts on an engine not built for it isn't going to make s**t for power initially, and when you start with all the parts that are designed to make huge amounts of power bolted onto an engine that doesn't make squat for power, you have a shitty running car until you finally reach that "due time and end point".

So you purposely want to make your car worse for the meantime just so you wont have to upgrade anything later on. You're running boost.....the main things you need to focus on are your block and your turbo to prevent from upgrading. You don't have to touch anything else. 500 isn't some high goal to reach even for that to be your minimal output. You still have nothing to warrant using parts that don't even fit when the correct things you need are readily available. Running large charge pipe is going to increase lag, not running the turbo and exhaust manifold you need for your goal is going to create a crazy high expense, and running a custom one manifold (I would assume a large one since you asked about mine) will help create more power on less boost, but if the block isn't built for that, it's a waste or a ticking time bomb.

it not that i intended only to make 500 hp is only a power cap to me cause the injectors i'm running right now, if i switch to bigger injectors i can make more power. i'm only limited to 500-600hp due to my stock sleeve and and injectors. other wise i'll go for 750+

my main focus is making 850+ hp but my stock sleeves aren't going to handle that so i have a "forced" power cap, i'm not a firm believer that you gott run lesser parts cause your not in that hp range yet.... no such things. its actually easier parts are less stressed and everything is running less. actually piping size is more dependent on boost level 2.5in piping is good for up to 15 psi with any given size turbo. 3in is needed for boost levels past 15 psi there is 2 type of air flow in na air velocity in junction to the runner length and size is needed to make the power, this can be ingnored in turbo setup the turbo is literally like a big powerful leaf blower. better "flow" for this settup would be having a suffecint size plenum and large diameter runners if you look at GE manifold the runners are short but have very very large innner diameter runners. a near 7in runner is still way shorter. the euro r intake manifold runners are about as long as 9.5" if you measure along the floor and about 8" long if you measure along the roof. the euro r outside dimenion is nearly identical to the skunk2 pro. 7in is actually much shorter everything on h22 are bigger and longer from factory. if you do direct comparison to rbc/rrc to the euro r or stock h22 intake mainfold not much difference. also in stock form h22 has bigger plenum then any k series. the type s head flow just as well as any k series head. h22 was designed to unitize very large plenum. so your manifold i'll still have my midrange maybe even more and the large plenum will help with making top end power h22 has been seriously been power capped alot from factory and its very very restrictive. 15-20hp can been seen from just deleting balance shafts from the block.

so i stand correct with what i already said " air flow" for turbo works almost opposite of what it would be for N/A form. my stock manifold still has longer runners. in either cases. h22 have made more power though out the ranges with k series manifold. with stock rbc/rrc manifold theres literally 3-4 fist gap everywhere around the manifold to the brake booster and firewall. h22 likes every big its how these motor was designed. h22a type s made 220hp k20a from ep3 type r still made same hp 220 from fastory

this is what typically a fully modified intake manifold for h22 is machined all the webbing and runners are machined out this is done to increase and maximize the plenum volume as much as possible it physically can with the manifold design.

what it would look like mounted

 

[CHILD]

my main focus is making 850+ hp but my stock sleeves aren't going to handle that so i have a "forced" power cap, i'm not a firm believer that you gott run lesser parts cause your not in that hp range yet.... no such things. its actually easier parts are less stressed and everything is running less. actually piping size is more dependent on boost level 2.5in piping is good for up to 15 psi with any given size turbo. 3in is needed for boost levels past 15 psi there is 2 type of air flow in na air velocity in junction to the runner length and size is needed to make the power, this can be ingnored in turbo setup the turbo is literally like a big powerful leaf blower. better "flow" for this settup would be having a suffecint size plenum and large diameter runners if you look at GE manifold the runners are short but have very very large innner diameter runners. a near 7in runner is still way shorter. the euro r intake manifold runners are about as long as 9.5" if you measure along the floor and about 8" long if you measure along the roof. the euro r outside dimenion is nearly identical to the skunk2 pro. 7in is actually much shorter everything on h22 are bigger and longer from factory. if you do direct comparison to rbc/rrc to the euro r or stock h22 intake mainfold not much difference. also in stock form h22 has bigger plenum then any k series. the type s head flow just as well as any k series head. .

Are you f**king kidding me! 1bar of boost is not the f**king same from one turbo to the next, and charge piping has to be considered from setup to setup.

you're comparing a damn oem manifold to another oem manifold....the K-Tuned intake manifold is a huge monster compared to those oem manifolds, so that's a waste of time to compare fitment of an oem manifold. If the K-Tuned manifold was that damn small I wouldn't have had to modify my engine bay and coolant system just to put the s**t in there.

a H22 type S head does not flow as well as any K series head. You'd have to open the head up considerably just to match the stock flow of a PRB head....and a PRB head doesn't flow nearly as much as an RSP head!

so i stand correct with what i already said " air flow" for turbo works almost opposite of what it would be for N/A form. my stock manifold still has longer runners. in either cases. h22 have made more power though out the ranges with k series manifold. with stock rbc/rrc manifold theres literally 3-4 fist gap everywhere around the manifold to the brake booster and firewall. h22 likes every big its how these motor was designed. h22a type s made 220hp k20a from ep3 type r still made same hp 220 from fastory

A rbc and rrc is tiny compared to the manifolds you've been asking me about and the GATO you claim you can easily get your hands on.

and your horsepower comparison is stupid, because you realize that the much larger H22 engine had the same peak output of a smaller engine.....because it's far less efficient and less flowing. Not to say the H22 doesn't have potential, it's simply not in the same league.

but whatever, you won't listen, go buy these manifolds that barely can be custom fit into K series cars and slap it onto your H and have at it.....

 

[Diana Nam]

Are you f**king kidding me! 1bar of boost is not the f**king same from one turbo to the next, and charge piping has to be considered from setup to setup.

you're comparing a damn oem manifold to another oem manifold....the K-Tuned intake manifold is a huge monster compared to those oem manifolds, so that's a waste of time to compare fitment of an oem manifold. If the K-Tuned manifold was that damn small I wouldn't have had to modify my engine bay and coolant system just to put the s**t in there.

a H22 type S head does not flow as well as any K series head. You'd have to open the head up considerably just to match the stock flow of a PRB head....and a PRB head doesn't flow nearly as much as an RSP head!


A rbc and rrc is tiny compared to the manifolds you've been asking me about and the GATO you claim you can easily get your hands on.

and your horsepower comparison is stupid, because you realize that the much larger H22 engine had the same peak output of a smaller engine.....because it's far less efficient and less flowing. Not to say the H22 doesn't have potential, it's simply not in the same league.

but whatever, you won't listen, go buy these manifolds that barely can be custom fit into K series cars and slap it onto your H and have at it.....

well if you must know its not gonna be like how you may think its gonna be i'm telling you, you'll be very very very surpised how much less work the head needs to be up there in terms of head flow its self. desipte thats differences did you know the h22 rather hates log type manifold as it creates too much reversion in exhaust? doesn't really happen on d or b series

 

[Diana Nam]

all i'm saying is i like the results you made on that manifold so i like to test it out on my setup... its all

 

[68Camaro]

Just read the whole thread in 2 days. Really clean car dude. Always been a fan of a simple looking car with a lot of power


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[young_]

Where you at, Child? Don't let this fool keep you away!

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[ImportFan1]

He's got some serious changes coming up too...

 

[CHILD]

Let's see where I left off....

My air intake was finished up in the last update. Just a couple of pics of that

Then I didn't really do anything for awhile except drive the car as is with VTC disabled. I was just happy to be driving again and I was in no rush to get my replacement timing chain and all.

After about a month I picked up a couple of things, K-Tuned timing chain tensioner (figured I should start changing tensioners as routine maintenance to avoid future issues) and also an oil cap.

Since nothing really note worthy was going on, that's when I started falling off on the forums.

almost another month later I grabbed a new oem timing chain thanks to Autofair Honda

Got ahold of the new billet post mounts and swapped out my oem one. My addiction to bling continues.

slapped some wheels, coilovers, and replacement hood dampers on my TL and actually started to daily drive it because I want to really take my civic apart and fix up all the minor issues I have been bandaging or ignoring.

Then after valentines day and my daughters 1st birthday passed, it wasn't until nearly mid march before I finally pulled the engine and did the maintenance so it could be fully tuned.

engine swap lapse by Kerry Smith, on Flickr

Thanks to JTran for letting me borrow some space to work on my car at his new shop. Made things a breeze.

 

[CHILD]

went ahead and swapped the tensioner again for the hell of it

Then finally came dyno day

Luckily JTran is a cool dude and he let me look through his laptop with the previous dyno pulls to pull up the best pull from before. I posted my results from the manifold back to back tunes on Facebook and it was like the most dramatic thing ever since both pulls were uncorrected :thud: But I grabbed my K-tuned best pull and switched it show STD correction factor with 5 smoothing to match ALL my other dyno sessions on this dynojet and the results were about 5whp less. Both graphs between the K-Tuned and Skunk2 ultra were just the same with both losing 5whp peak and the same shape throughout the entire rev range but whatever. I caught so much s**t like I had the most unusable or skewed results ever over that post lol.

So the baseline from the best K-Tuned manifold pull before without VTC and yadda yadda...

and the final tune made 295WHP just below 9000 rpm. The best we could do on 93 pump gas.

Johnny didn't do anything extra aggressive to pull out more power or to try to break 300 on pump gas, but we came pretty dang close. The car felt much better after recovering tons of midrange power. It's really hard to feel the difference in peak power for such a short period in the rev range but the car did pull much smoother up top.

Not long after that came TX2K, and my buddy let me borrow his skinny 15x6.5 TE37's that were wrapped in Nitto NT01 so that I could go play. The car felt good but I'd definitely need something wider than those 205/50/15's. The car would hook midway in 2nd gear which was much better than my S drives obviously.

Looking like a wanna-be kanjo style car

After a couple of nights of TX2K and street fun, I decided to genuinely stop daily driving the civic and actually take the car apart and fix my issues. From time to time, things that I neglected were biting me in the butt and it just made the car less fun and more of a worry. So I threw it on jack stands, sold some things, and after my birthday April 19th, I'm going to start repairing the car and gathering up parts to do a high compression turbo setup. I'll be living up to the "slowest updating" thing once again haha.

intake manifold will be staying the same, but i'll chop off the water pump housing smooth, new water pump, finish my coolant overflow, replace bumpers, fenders, and hood, some interior changes, bigger brakes, new wheels, new coilovers......I don't see myself finishing any time soon.

 

[CHILD]

well now that my birthday has passed, it's time to start spending on my piece of junk and get it all back together. Header was sold for obvious reasons, sold my coilovers just because I wanted to upgrade from the many years on function and form type 1's to the K-Tuned suspension. I may end up using their K1 street setup rather than waiting for the K2 circuit coilovers they have in the works. Also sold my wheels to put something nice on there and I plan on upgrading brakes to the 12.19" BBK from Wilwood with the 6pot calipers. I'm sure i'll find more and more to change up along the way. I don't expect to get much done very quickly.

However, I did kick start things today....

 

[young_]

Welp.. that's gotta be expensive[emoji38]

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[CHILD]

Welp.. that's gotta be expensive[emoji38]

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hahahaha, somewhat yeah! It's a fairly decent chunk out of the way though. Trying to take that expensive to least expensive route with the build again.

 

[young_]

Makes it all come together quick in the end

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[pmac193]

man I miss my EJ6 sedan, this makes me want to grab another 6th gen and throw a K in it.

 

[mportedcivicsi]

WOW!!! Nice man!

With that brake upgrade you wont be wanting my 15x7 NT03's...haha!

 

[NOLAcivic]

Awesome build! The work put in is fantastic.

 

[CHILD]

Thanks for the kind words!!!

Not very much going on, recovering from bday spending and the sheepey purchase lol. I was in the midst of selling my 4Piston K600 cams when Luke happened to cross my post and he spiked my curiosity so to speak. He mentioned that some high hp cars actually used these cams in their boosted setups. That made me interested in trying them out in mine because that would be inline with the lower boost levels that I wanted and also because that was a big chunk of change I invested in my car and the look of some oem K20z1 cams just disgusted me lol.

I had swapped out my K600 for the sale and put these K20z1 cams in (ewwww)

and a few days later after hearing from Luke, I swapped them right back in lol

So much like before, my little build or whatever continues to make slight changes as I move along.

Picked up a few random goodies from k-tuned. Some replacement parts, and some minor things for boost.

Grabbed some -10 fittings for my valve cover since the intake manifold sits crazy close to where the PCV goes and there's no room to run a fitting and line there like some have suggested in the past.

Also picked up some stuff from Autofair Honda

wanted to try the race springs in the trans

New water pump

uhmmmmm, just a picture

 

[CHILD]

new water pump on the left. There was a bit of noticeable play in the old pump as well as coolant leaking from the weep hole when running recently.

installed

4bar MAP

another random photo, my MRacing mirrors holding up well to plenty of road abuse

Impatiently waiting, because that's what you do when you're broke

figured I'd take some pics from similar angles so that I can have comparison pics for myself

The up pipe and dumptupe I asked for were meant to clear the battery in the oem location

and then I finally got bored of having nothing to fix or take photos of

 

[A]]Th!ngSound]

It's always a pleasure reading your updates @CHILD !