'98 Civic EX Auto Trans Issue

[EricaHarbor]

The problem: One day I was coming back from the store, accelerated from a stop light and trans wouldn't shift into 2nd, just revved up. I pulled over quick as I could, turned ignition off, back on, accelerated, and car shifted into 2nd, but this time wouldn't go to 3rd, the engine just revved. After doing this about 15 times I finally made it home (not much other choice at the time). Fast forward about 2 months>>>>


The issue: Mechanic took the entire trans apart, found no issues. Even replaced a few parts inside since we had already ordered them. He said it could possibly be the shift solenoids since literally everything else looked in great condition aside from the filter which he replaced. Even that had very very minimal dirt in it. I saw the inside of the trans and was there for most of this, the gears looked great, nothing was cracked or rubbing on anything, the thing was immaculate on the inside.


The question: WTF? Why isn't my car shifting?

If you need any further info, just let me know I will reply fast, and thanks in advance for checking this out and helping me.

EDIT: I forgot to add that the car does not go in reverse either.

 

[HeX]

I find it fishy that a mechanic would take apart a tranny before inspecting, or just changing out, the solenoids first being that its easy and inexpensive on these cars. What was his reason for not changing the solenoids? This doesnt sound like a reputable mechanic with tranny experience.

 

[EricaHarbor]

I didn't want to have to explain all the extra stuff but here goes. I paid nothing for the removal and disassembly/reassembly of it because the mechanic is from my husbands work.. He has many year experience and knows what he is doing. However, we do not have a way to test the solenoids, and they're $300 total for just the ones needed (IF they're bad) This is just what I am told, there might be more to the story that they don't tell me because they think I won't understand (They = mechanic and husband) But no one else was searching the net or reaching out and trying to find an answer.

If anyone gives a s**t, I need this car, I can't explain it but I need my damn car back. No one else was making a real effort so here I am.

EDIT: The transmission has not been reinstalled because we're trying to justify another $300 purchase that might not even be the issue. We are also waiting on a different mechanic who can find the time to get it back in, and also waiting on another trans mount to come in, which was apparently worn or broken.

 

[EricaHarbor]

P0700

 

[EricaHarbor]

Long story but the codes were coming up before the bad issue started. Codes were gotten a few months prior.
The diagnostic tool was out with an employee in another state at the time it was decided to pull the trans...long story, not my fault, i wasnt there etc etc....

The other codes that came up were p0325 and p0420

 

[EricaHarbor]

Those were the only 3 codes it gave. Original motor and unsure on the trans. The person we bought it from 6 years ago is probably sleeping right now so I'll find out as soon as it's possible.

Also, thank you again for all your help with this and trying to figure it out.

 

[EricaHarbor]

All I have is this. I'm not a mechanic so I don't know what you mean besides the trans code. I'm sorry, I'm doin my best here

 

[HeX]

... the mechanic is from my husbands work.. He has many year experience and knows what he is doing. However, we do not have a way to test the solenoids, and they're $300 total for just the ones needed...

This makes me further doubt this mechanic. No legitimate mechanic will ever blindly disassemble a tranny without reading the Check-engine codes first, which he could've done without a scanner as boofoo mentioned. You and your husband may think hes reputable but your info is telling me otherwise. Im no expert but I know solenoids can be tested and found a youtube video showing as such. Again, the fact that this mechanic didnt do so first is very fishy. This "free" disassembly may sadly come up costly.

P0700 = transmission control system malfuction
P0420 = catalytic issue
P0325 = knock sensor malfunction

None of these are really interrelated. My first theory is IF you drove through alot of water then perhaps some conponents got wet but it is highly unlikely for multiple conponents to go bad simultaneously unless the main ECU went bad. Im still leaning to either a solenoid issue, faulty shift controllee, or a tranny computer control issue. All are things that any reputable mechanic would test first before any dismantling especially when it could still shift but with difficulty in engagement. Perhaps theres more going on that someone wont admit to you. Eithervway, good luck getting this resolved.

 

[EricaHarbor]

... especially when it could still shift but with difficulty in engagement.

Edit: yes the front end of the car was underwater for a short time about 4 years ago during a flash flood in the middle of the night. I just happened to be awake and stepped outside to smoke and saw it. My husband towed it out, we let it dry out and i vacuumed it out with a rug cleaner for like 3 days and it drove and did fine for the past 4 years.

For the record, when the issue was happening and I pulled over, there were times where it would not go into any gears at all. For instance I held down the button and moved shifter from top to bottom slowly then quickly (sorry I was frustrated) and it wouldn't click into reverse, neutral (?) Drive, 2nd or first. it was randomly happening, and turning the key off and on again seemed to work a few times so that's what I kept doing to just try to force it to go so I could get home. Also, In fairness, the mechanic that took apart the trans also put it all back together with the new parts, he is doing this in his spare time, and since he is not being paid, maybe he thought "why bother?" (with checking codes or solenoids) I have no idea. We're currently replacing a cv axle boot, and waiting for a mechanic to get here to tell us the name of another part that seems to be split wide open (idk if it has anything to do with the trans or not). I appreciate everyone's' input and I will update the thread when the issue gets resolved.

I think this all would have gone better if I had just paid $1700 (for new) or $2700 (rebuild) to have it done by a pro at some shop with people I don't know. Oh that's right $1700 may as well be $170,000 for people like us. My husbands father offered to pay for parts and have his mechs do the work on their own time. So far the parts have only set him back about $150. If the few things these guys have done somehow fixes the issue, or even if we do have to drop $300 on solenoids, that's still less than $1700. This is just how poor people have to get s**t done.

 

[HeX]

...$1700 may as well be $170,000 for people like us. My husbands father offered to pay for parts and have his mechs do the work on their own time. So far the parts have only set him back about $150. If the few things these guys have done somehow fixes the issue, or even if we do have to drop $300 on solenoids, that's still less than $1700. This is just how poor people have to get s**t done.

hey, I understand the broke life verrry well so I can empathize. Hell, that's a big reason why I've learned as much as I know about cars. That just makes this suck worse. Just keep in mind that solenoids can and should be tested and you might luck out and find some working ones in a local junkyard for dirt cheap, as in blindly guessing $25-50 max. You being in financial hardship makes me hope that you haven't been told the entire story and this mechanic is more savvy than what we've heard so far.

 

[daperez13]

You seem to be a little upset at the opinions and suggestions you're receiving here. Please understand that most members here, those that have been here a while and not just subscribe to post one time about an issue they're having and then disappear never to be heard from again, are here because they are not well-off and are tired of getting ripped off by unscrupulous mechanics and dealers. Most of us learned the hard way - by screwing things up. We got our hands dirty and learned in the process. No, we do not know everything, but through the trials, we have learned to troubleshoot and the process of elimination. We only try to give suggestions based on the information we are provided. Sometimes, valuable information is omitted either intentionally or unintentionally but one thing is for sure, the more clear, uncluttered and relevant information is provided, the better of a response the OP will receive.

You are here because you are not satisfied with what your mechanic is doing, whether free of charge or not. We all know that having a working car is essential to our everyday life. However, a lot of people take their vehicles for granted and neglect the crap out of them. They don't understand the engineering behind an engine or at the very least the concept of it. They don't check fluids, they starve the engine of oil, fail to perform service intervals according to the manufacturer, and then when they're stuck on the side of the road, they wonder why them!

Some think that an automatic transmission is more complex than an engine, and for good reason. In most cases, it takes a true specialist to properly diagnose and repair one, hence the expensive, jaw-dropping bill. It too requires maintenance at the proper service intervals. My recommendation is to take it to a reputable mechanic; you may have to bite the bullet but they are more likely to fix the issue and provide you with a service warranty for a few months and/or miles.

 

[EricaHarbor]

@daperez i assure you i am not upset at anyone in this thread for any reason, and am not sure what made you think that. I'm going into this with no money and very little knowledge, not enough to fix it on my own. Also, I have given every single peice of info that I/we have on it with our limited knowledge. What I am upset about is just simply losing my car. Its been 5 months and i am ready to have it back. But after today it looks like i'll never drive it again. Also, "biting the bullet" is simply not an option. We will never have that much money. Period.


So, on to the update. We replaced the solenoids on the trans. It now shifts into every gear. However, when in drive, and barely touching the gas pedal, the car stalls out like its going to die, runs roughly and just wont go forward. Another obd2 error we got was about the map sensor. One was ordered. I installed it myself and the code still comes up. We currently do not have the tools to test electrical equipment, and those that do have this are scarce.


Todays codes:
-P1768 (linear soleoid valve a. Tested, works. Still throwing error. Went to junkyard, got another. Still the code comes up.)@
-P1758 (same as above)
-P0108 (we replaced the map sensor, still saying high input. No way to test)
-P0700

 

[daperez13]

@daperez i assure you i am not upset at anyone in this thread for any reason, and am not sure what made you think that. I'm going into this with no money and very little knowledge, not enough to fix it on my own. Also, I have given every single peice of info that I/we have on it with our limited knowledge. What I am upset about is just simply losing my car. Its been 5 months and i am ready to have it back. But after today it looks like i'll never drive it again. Also, "biting the bullet" is simply not an option. We will never have that much money. Period.


So, on to the update. We replaced the solenoids on the trans. It now shifts into every gear. However, when in drive, and barely touching the gas pedal, the car stalls out like its going to die, runs roughly and just wont go forward. Another obd2 error we got was about the map sensor. One was ordered. I installed it myself and the code still comes up. We currently do not have the tools to test electrical equipment, and those that do have this are scarce.


Todays codes:
-P1768 (linear soleoid valve a. Tested, works. Still throwing error. Went to junkyard, got another. Still the code comes up.)@
-P1758 (same as above)
-P0108 (we replaced the map sensor, still saying high input. No way to test)
-P0700

Translation does get mixed up in text, so I'll take that back. I can understand your frustration and maybe that's what came across. Trust us, we're on your side here and want to do everything possible to help you out.

Most of us have never rebuilt a transmission so without that knowledge, your resources are limited here when it comes to diagnosing it. Your best bet is to probably replace it at this point, otherwise, my previous statement still remains true and you will have to bite the bullet if you insist on repairing the existing one. Given that you still have a transmission issue and already spent a few hundred dollars, please consider looking for a replacement. If you lived closer to me, I would replace your transmission for free (if you purchased the replacement of course). Well...maybe for a 12 of Coronas. I understand how frustrating and hard it is for people on a budget to spend money on their cars. We have other expenses and our vehicles are not our priority, so they most often get neglected. I'm not saying you did, I'm just stating that normally, they are an after thought.

I'll take the back seat here and hope that someone else can provide some insight on your issues. I really hope you can resolve them without breaking the bank. Thank you for the update, I'm sure this thread will become useful for someone else in your shoes, if you can find a solution.

 

[EricaHarbor]

If you reset the ECU, do all the codes return?

Did the ECU get wet?

Download the 96-00 Civic manual, and do the electrical troubleshooting for each CEL code.

We have not reset the ECU, did not know that was a thing. Is this a correct procedure that will work on the 98 civic?

It is possible the ECU got wet a few years ago.

We have tested the transmission solenoids with someone who happened to have a voltimeter/multimeter (idk what it was) and all plungers moved in the valves properly.
We were unable to test the map sensor because the person with the electrical testing equipment had left, however, placing a brand spanking new map sensor on did nothing at all, didn't clear the code and didn't solve the issue.

So, as far as I understand it, we have tested everything we are able to with what w ehave. What are we missing? I will go reset the ECU once it is confirmed that the procedure above will work for our particular car.

EDIT: after some more searching it seems like just unplugging the battery and possibly the fuses will do the trick?

 

[EricaHarbor]

We disonnected the battery and reconnected it after 10ish minutes. Error still. In this car, the backup fuse, according to the lid on the fuse box, is a 10a (the only 7.5a was interior lights. I removed that one anyway because why not). We removed it for 5 minutes. Ran the scanner again and the 3 codes came back. I have a couple videos uploading right now. Will link in a moment.I hope this helps somehow.

As far as searching the manual, I'd need to know exactly what to look for, as there appear to be over 2100 pages, but it's a pdf so I can use search.


Edit: will this work ? https://imgur.com/gallery/6vlut

Sorry for sideways videos

 

[Brak]

this is not civic specific, but general automotive troubleshooting...
Since the transmission was out, there are two additional things to check.

#1 - Transmission fluid level. I assume it was checked after the work was done, but they typically need to be topped off a couple times afterwards.
low fluid can present in all kinds of crazy ways. My durango had a similar problem last summer, where all of a sudden, it would die if i didn't keep it above a certain RPM.
turns out one of the trans lines had sprung a leak, and it was a quart low. once i topped it off, it ran perfectly fine.

#2 - Vacuum leak. it's easy to have missed or broken an old hose, when putting everything back together.
easiest way to tell, is take a can of carb cleaner, or something else flammable, and spray around the engine bay while the engine is running.
if there is a leak, you will hear the rpm's increase slightly.

Good Luck

 

[EricaHarbor]

We will get the 7.5 fuse right away. And thank you boofoo for pointing out where in the pdf to go, i was searching with the wrong terms before.

Brak, we checked the trans fluid yesterday at idle temp and after the test drive. Both times was the same level and was close to the top line filled.

We still have more troubleshooting to do so I'll get back when I can to update. Thanks all for your help

 

[EricaHarbor]

.... My first theory is IF you drove through alot of water then perhaps some conponents got wet but it is highly unlikely for multiple conponents to go bad simultaneously unless the main ECU went bad.

We are going to get a replacement ECU today. Will update results of this.

Update: new ecu installed. No change in prior issues.

 

[EricaHarbor]

We just did it as a gamble. Its fine. The old ecu was wet on the inside where the plug goes. Oh well. Map sensor code is gone

 

[EricaHarbor]

Now he said there are 3 codes. Map sensor code came back. Yes on p1768