Ex coupe door lock puzzle

[CivicEx'00]

I just bought this car used about a month ago, in good condition, but it looks like most of it has been tampered with at some point, especially the doors, which is where I come into my problem.

So here's everything I've discovered since taking off the door panels and looking around. (I'm new at this, so I'm just going to include as much as possible)

1. There is an aftermarket remote unlock/starter system installed somewhere (Viper Brand) and the remote looks like it's in pretty poor shape. It has worked to lock and unlock the passenger door in the past weeks, but now doesn't do anything. (Batteries are ok, tested them, also there's a light on the key fob whenever you hit a button)



2. Driver door manual lock used to wiggle when you pressed a button on the remote, but now is completely stationary.


3. The rod that leads from the outer key lock to the inner locking mechanism is missing, there's nothing attached to the inner side of the key lock



4. The electrical auto lock/unlock button on the drivers side door is really weird. Of course it only works on the passenger door, but it's not consistent. Sometimes it will both lock and unlock, but other times it will only unlock it.

5. I can manually lock the driver door by pulling on the handle and using the manual lock at the same time. However, if I'm not holding the door handle out, I cannot move the manual lock. I think this may be a weird sort of security feature by honda, but it sure doesn't make things easier to troubleshoot

It's probably one of the biggest mysteries in a car I've encountered. I'm in highschool so I'm trying not to spend more than I have to on this. I'll take it to a dealership if I can't figure it out in a week or two. I have too much invested in my stereo to risk a break in. Anyone who can offer some insight is very appreciated, like I said I'm out of ideas

Thank you!



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[MotorMo]

I'm thinking you have multiple issues going on. If you are missing the rod from the outer key lock to the latch assembly, then the outer key wont work (obviously), but that shouldn't effect any thing else (unless by a freak of nature, things got bent at last time of repair/removal of the missing rod). If both your door locks work manually, but not electrically, then its in the electrical side, not the mechanical side. I always test to confirm before replacing- but the "door lock actuators" have a high failure rate. Its possible both ur door lock actuators are failing, drawing more current than designed or just giving up in life all together.

 

[CivicEx'00]

I'm thinking you have multiple issues going on. If you are missing the rod from the outer key lock to the latch assembly, then the outer key wont work (obviously), but that shouldn't effect any thing else (unless by a freak of nature, things got bent at last time of repair/removal of the missing rod). If both your door locks work manually, but not electrically, then its in the electrical side, not the mechanical side. I always test to confirm before replacing- but the "door lock actuators" have a high failure rate. Its possible both ur door lock actuators are failing, drawing more current than designed or just giving up in life all together.

Should I attempt to remove them myself and test them or is this job best left to a repair shop? I'm afraid it might be loose wiring somewhere which makes the job infinitely harder

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[daperez13]

On your second picture, why is there a tie-wrap(s) (in an "X" shape) on the two rods, behind your interior door/lock handle?

Third picture does seem to indicate that you're missing the "locking" rod. I would suggest heading out to your local junk yard and sourcing one out, along with anything else that might be missing or broken. Take that opportunity to take pictures to verify how the rods connect to each mechanism.

There is a "security" feature on the locking mechanism. You do have to pull the door handle first and then lock the vehicle, either manually or by switch. If you attempt to lock the door manually without pulling the door handle first, you will not be able to apply the "lock" lever. If you try and lock it with the switch, you will hear the locks "lock" and then "unlock".

 

[CivicEx'00]

On your second picture, why is there a tie-wrap(s) (in an "X" shape) on the two rods, behind your interior door/lock handle?.

That is to keep the rods close to the door panel. I noticed when trying to move the manual lock that the rod would bend way outward, and I thought that may be the reason it's not working, so I held them together best I could and it didn't make a difference

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[MotorMo]

You can test them in the car- simply remove the connector from the door lock actuator, and jump power and ground to the two "pins". Then switch the power and ground- this should lock and unlock your door. If not then your know its in the actuator. But you need an external power source and a safe way to hook it up. You can also measure voltage at the connector side of the actuator, to see if you have voltage in and out of the connector when the lock/unlock button is switched. However if the broken wire has only one strand left of wire holding itself together, it will be enough to give you a voltage reading, but the wire will not be thick enough able to carry the current (amperage) to operate the actuator.
The wires that run from our chassis to our doors flex alot and can also break and fail.

 

[CivicEx'00]

Consider removing the Viper system and returning the power locks and remote to stock.

What year Civic?

2000

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Consider removing the Viper system and returning the power locks and remote to stock.

What year Civic?

I would definitely consider if I knew how

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[CivicEx'00]

Update: when I use the inner electric door lock, the drivers side door rods move a little bit, but don't ever actually move the lock from it's current position. Does this mean a lack of voltage or is it a mechanical interference somewhere in the system?

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[CivicEx'00]

It could be either a mechanical issue with the lock mechanism or a bad actuator.

Ok, I'll do the voltage test tonight

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