First post 1995 Ex with D16y7 v-tec issues.

[lolopez999]

Hello everyone this is my very first post on here, and I'm just basically looking for some insight, and recommendations. I've always been a huge Honda fan my very first car was a 1990 honda prelude, followed by a 1990 civic dx hatch, recently I got a 2000 dx. Unfortunately they were all automatic so I never really did too much to them. Well a couple of days ago I purchased a 1995 ex vin is jhm vin. It came with D16y7 with v-tec at first I thought it was just the valve cover but i found the vtec spool on the rear left of the engine. So the car has a lot of issues including a rusted out exhaust, at first i thought the cat was broken or clogged but i took it to an exhaust shop and it only had 2 resonators and one was rusted through. So i replaced with straight pipe. The car had been running like crap rough idle and limp mode after 5 mins and of course CEL. So i did the jumper thing and got a total of 6 codes 3,4,6,21,22,and 43. I already researched them and know what they are. I still wanted to do a compression test before I put to much into it, supposedly the previous owner did the head job on it. I recently pulled spark plugs and the electrode were full of carbon black as hell. I replaced them, vehicle starts a bit better and idles a little better, but still goes into limp mode. I checked the oil and it was really watery but I'm unsure if it's coolant or uncombusted fuel. I'm planning on doing the oil change to check the oil better, but been really busy with work and school. Other than a compression test, what else should I do to it? Are these codes common? Do you think maybe the block could be cracked? Or broken intake issues? I just don't want to start ordering the parts and waste time and money. I'll post pics of what I have. As of now car starts right away, idles very inconsistently no to high but fluctuates. Doesn't die and doesn't over heat. The exhaust fix seemed to help a bit. But what do you guys think or recommend? What else should I check to make sure it's worth fixing? Don't be too hard on me plz. I am a noob.

 

[civteck]

That's alot of sensor codes to happen all at once, make sure the grounding is good. Clean the connection at the body from the battery and i always add an 8ga ground directly from the batt to the t-stat housing where the engine harness grounds. Try the little things first as i highly doubt all those sensors are bad.

Sent from my boujea ass phone

 

[lolopez999]

The battery terminal cables along with battery were recently replaced. I'll check the ground maybe sand down under ground connection. I'll also do that with the thermostat housing. The car was sitting for 3-4 years. Tags are from 2013, I was thinking of replacing the easy cheap sensors. Like MAP, coolant temp, maybe t-stat. Even considering replacing either the gasket or vtec spool all together. Noticed oil dropping from the spool. What codes from these would cause the car to go into limp mode? Are the parts from d16y7 and d16y7vtec mostly the same? Any other interchangeable models or years?
What steps should I do to test compression? Pull fuel pump relay, disconnect injectors? What numbers am i looking for? Thanks again

 

[civteck]

Bad gas if it was sitting that long and a fuel filter change should be done. Def sand down the ground point on the body. Im not sure what changes between D motors as far as vtec parts,i only know B motors but all the sensors, map, tps, etc are the same on both platforms. For the compression test remove all spark plugs, disconnect both grey plugs from the dizzy, hold the throttle body wide open and crank the motor for 4 compression cycles per cyl per test. Do each cyl twice to be sure, anything over 120-130 will run and make sure there is not 10-15% between holes. I still would not just throw parts at it besides normal tuneup parts. And never heard of any "limp mode" on these cars. Also if you have a mechanical fuel press gauge id install that and drive watching it. Easy and cheap to do if you need advice on that ill tell you. Happy troubleshooting

Sent from my boujea ass phone

 

[lolopez999]

Ok I'll do the compression test after work I'll rent a kit from Azone and go from there. I filled it with premium, was planning on getting some gas treatment and fuel injector cleaner. The needle for the gas gauge is stuck on Full, not sure if it's the floater or broken in the cluster. I'm guessing the fuel filter is under the back seats right? And I'm not to sure what the fuel press gauge is but I'll look into it. I thought limp mode because it starts good but after 5-10 mins CEL comes on and won't rev past 3k. Just like my ody does when CEL comes on. I didn't think it had limp mode either. What about the vtec should I try just changing the gaskets, or the whole spool/solenoid? Hey and how do I run the wire from battery to tstat housing? I'll post the compression test later today.

 

[civteck]

The fuel filter is the black can just to the right of the +batt terminal, change that out reguardless, on top of that is a 10mm bolt thats where you can connect a mechanical press gauge to, wedge it under the driver side wiper so you can see it while driving. Make sure as rpm go up the press dont drop. For the vtec, take the assy off and there is a filter clean that dont buy another unless its broke. Post your compression results but it dont sound like thats your problem.

Sent from my boujea ass phone

 

[lolopez999]

Ok I'm going to have to order the filter unless O'Reilly's has it pretty cheap. I'm guessing i can get the gauge there or ebay also. Any gauges in specific you recommend. And is it pretty plug and play?

 

[civteck]

Any auto part store should have the filter @20$. If you have a harbor freight by you get their fuel press kit its cheap also. Another thing to try unplug the single wire from the vtec solenoid and put a jumper wire from batt + and tap the single wire on the solenoid you should hear it click. Dont hold it on just tap it a few times, if it clicks its good if not its bad.

Sent from my boujea ass phone

 

[lolopez999]

Which one should i get?

 

[civteck]

2nd one, make sure it has metric adapter

Sent from my boujea ass phone

 

[lolopez999]

So i changed out the fuel filter, added some fuel system cleaner. I noticed the car started really fast, and the idle got a bit better. I was able to rev high, but after the car warms up after like 10 minutes, I'm unable to get passed 3k rpm and check engine comes on. I also need to check my fan because I didn't notice it come on. I'll run compression and fuel pressure after work today and post results. One of the codes was water temperature sensor I'm guessing that's why the fans are not turning on. And my temp gauge seems like it is working but never gets above half. I'm hoping it's not blocked.

 

[lolopez999]

Ran compression just the way you told me cyl1=165 cyl2=155 cyl3=150 cyl4=150.. replaces spark plugs 2 days ago and the new ones are black.. compression good? Doing the fuel pressure test tomorrow..

 

[civteck]

That's a healthy motor. Post a pic of the plugs. Just for shits n giggles check that the timing belt didnt jump, then check the timing with a light.

Sent from my boujea ass phone

 

[Mr.Baker]

Have you replaced the parts that the codes were reeading bad?
O2 sensors are pretty important, and since you had exhaust work done....
Have you done a simple tuneup, replacing plugs, wires and cap and rotor?

Those are preventative maintenance items, not really a waste of money, especially the plugs/wires/distributor, if you don't know when they have been changed, if at all.

H It came with D16y7 with v-tec at first I thought it was just the valve cover

Just for future reference, a vtec valve cover will not fit on a non vtec head.

 

[lolopez999]

Slowly but surely going. Today I changed the ECT sensor but one of the wires was cut, so went to junk yard and pulled one for $5. Planning on crimping it on tonight. Also bought another MAP sensor for $5 to try out. Ordered a dizzy also for $60 on Amazon, I hope it works! The last things I planned on doing was servicing the vtec replacing the gasket and replacing a connector that the previous owner ghetto rigged, maybe the sensor as well. Everything I read on the forum less me to fixing the dizzy and be ECT. Looks like codes can be related to each other. I really hope so been fun but with work, school, and family. Finding time to work on her is scarce, and I have working at night.

 

[civteck]

Slowly but surely going. Today I changed the ECT sensor but one of the wires was cut, so went to junk yard and pulled one for $5dollars. The last things I planned on doing was servicing the vtec replacing the gasket and replacing a connector that the previous owner ghetto rigged, maybe the sensor as well. Everything I read on the forum less me to fixing the dizzy and be ECT. Looks like codes can be related to each other.

^^^^^^This is the type of info we NEED when trying to help with trouble codes, symptoms, etc... broken, patched, botched fixes are ALL reasons why problems can and will happen. Detailed pics and prognosis are essential if we can help fwd. So now you have a better idea of whats happening it will help us (yourself) to figure out where to look and solve problems.. good luck goin forward but now you know what kinda project you took on and look deeper than what you were told.

Sent from my boujea ass phone

 

[lolopez999]

Just fixed the connector to the ECT sensor and replaced the sensor. Flushed and added coolant, thought I had a crack in my radiator but it stopped. Also switched out the MAP sensor for the $5 junk yard one number were different it was TN079800-3000 and i replaced with TN079800-3280. After CEL still comes on but now I'm only getting 4,6,43 so I got rid of 3,21,and 22. Still getting 4 for the crank position sensor, 6 for ECT , and 43 for fuel system. Still unable to rev past 3k. I'm hoping the new dizzy will help, the old one was supposedly rebuilt. Thinking about changing out the tstat, putting plugs for the sensors instead of ghetto rigs, and the fuel pressure test. Any other suggestions or recommendations let me know. For now, I'm going to wait on the dizzy which should arrive Wednesday. hopefully get some results switching it out. BTW idle is a lot better, start is good, and response has gotten alot better. GN yall

 

[lolopez999]

So I want to go get some connectors for the switches the prev owner rigged. Tempted to get a dizzy from the junk yard to see if it works but the one I ordered gets here tomorrow. Would any dizzy fit or does it have to be specific?

 

[civteck]

Any one will work considering obd connectors but the 3 bolts will not line up on all, ppl say it wont but im using an obd1 D series dizzy on my 600hp B series with an obd1 sohc ecu.
Id still check that timing didnt jump a tooth and check mechanical timing with a light, also fuel pressure.
The crank sensor code your getting can and would be the dizzy as obd1 has that sensor in the dizzy not behind the pulley as obd2 has

Sent from my boujea ass phone

 

[lolopez999]

Hey what's up yall. So i received the aem dizzy installed it but would not start. I made sure i out in the right way, it would only go in 1 way, the other way felt jammed so I installed it the only way it went in. I tested spark on all wires and got spark. I took pictures for the firing order so i know i wired it correctly. Now I'm concluding the dizzy was bad incompatible or timing is off. Note i tried my spark plugs from my 2000dx and the wires with no avail. What you guys think?