b18b1 swap, p75 ecu no power to fuel pump

[nd4sped]

quick question, will 22 gauge wire work the same as 16 gauge for jumper wire or do i specifically need to get 16 gauge

22 gauge is pretty small, compare it to the size of the components on the board. technically, thinner the wire, hotter it will be. Heat invites premature failure.

 

[spooky12k]

I figured, after looking at the 22 gauge wire that came with my soldering kit that it wouldnt work, however good news, grabbed 16 gauge from walmart and just finished the conversion and it works, fuel pump primes and car starts right up and without surging, thus concluding the p75 ecu is, in fact, bad. on top of that the code 19 went away, though there is still a code 41 for an o2 sensor heater so i will have to deal with that and then the cel will be eliminated completely. meanwhile am also waiting for a chip burner to arrive so i can get the chipping kit installed.

 

[nd4sped]

I figured, after looking at the 22 gauge wire that came with my soldering kit that it wouldnt work, however good news, grabbed 16 gauge from walmart and just finished the conversion and it works, fuel pump primes and car starts right up and without surging, thus concluding the p75 ecu is, in fact, bad. on top of that the code 19 went away, though there is still a code 41 for an o2 sensor heater so i will have to deal with that and then the cel will be eliminated completely. meanwhile am also waiting for a chip burner to arrive so i can get the chipping kit installed.

Out-motha-freaking-standing! So glad the video helped you out!

 

[spooky12k]

Thanks man, however it seems i cant get away from weird problems. Today i got under the car to check out the o2 sensor and noticed one of the wires/pin was pulled through the plug on the o2 sensor side so i pushed it back up and the CEL went away completely. Now with the o2 sensor "functioning" the battery light comes on and off when coming to a stop if i exceeded roughly 45-50 mph. Took the car to Oreillys and my battery and alternator tested good, and the voltage read normal on my multimeter. I then tested to see if the battery light doesnt come on if i were to unplug the wire from the sensor. Unplugged it, CEL came back, went for test drive on the highway, no battery light, got home, plugged back in, CEL went away, test drive again, battery light came on after slowing down from like 45. This honda is so weird man, the thing is the bane of my existence

 

[nd4sped]

Thanks man, however it seems i cant get away from weird problems. Today i got under the car to check out the o2 sensor and noticed one of the wires/pin was pulled through the plug on the o2 sensor side so i pushed it back up and the CEL went away completely. Now with the o2 sensor "functioning" the battery light comes on and off when coming to a stop if i exceeded roughly 45-50 mph. Took the car to Oreillys and my battery and alternator tested good, and the voltage read normal on my multimeter. I then tested to see if the battery light doesnt come on if i were to unplug the wire from the sensor. Unplugged it, CEL came back, went for test drive on the highway, no battery light, got home, plugged back in, CEL went away, test drive again, battery light came on after slowing down from like 45. This honda is so weird man, the thing is the bane of my existence

Id love to see some photos of the plug.

 

[spooky12k]

It’s a bit of a tough spot to get to from the top and jacking up the car is a task, so i just took a video and screenshotted clear shots of it. I also havent been able to get the actual harness unplugged with it being such a tight fit. Let me know if better angles would help and i can get you some other shots when i get a chance

http://imgur.com/a/oJVOPIL

 

[spooky12k]

ended up jacking up the car on stands and still hard to get to everything but i managed to get somewhat better visuals, let me know what you think, this truly has me stumped. I yet again after successfully unplugging the o2 sensor plug went for a test drive up and down the highway, no battery light, only CEL. Then when i plugged it back in and went for a test drive, it didnt take long at all for the battery light to pop up, no CEL.

http://imgur.com/a/0bMsKcM

 

[nd4sped]

Sounds like a faulty O2 sensor, possibly grounded out in the sensor perhaps.
Should also look for the root cause of that oil leak.

 

[spooky12k]

I’m positive It’s the oil pan gasket

 

[spooky12k]

Update on the P75, i reached out to the eBay seller i got mine from and he told me to send it to him so he can have his technician test it, and it turns out it was indeed bad. So he is sending me a replacement, and I will update when i get it if it works in my car, which it should.

 

[spooky12k]

Received the P75 replacement and it works as it should

 

[nd4sped]

Received the P75 replacement and it works as it should

Hell yeah brother! Glad to hear its coming together. Now we need MORE PICTURES!!!!!

 

[nd4sped]

Just a heads up, the oil leak appears much higher than your oil pan gasket. Hopefully its just the oil filter gasket leaking. May need to be replaced.

 

[spooky12k]

If I had to guess, that would be oil from when changing the oil filter that was never cleaned up because it kinda just goes everywhere. I did change the oil about 1000 miles ago. However nothing ever seems to be completely wet on the middle of the engine, only towards the bottoms near and under the oil pan, but i could always be wrong. It is also a pretty slow leak, because since changing the oil its only probably gone down 1/3 of a qt. I will definitely look into that once i get the chance though. Will also send pictures!

 

[spooky12k]

My 1995 Cintegra, if an Integra and a Civic had a baby! (My 95 Corolla also making an appearance in the background)

 

[nd4sped]

If I had to guess, that would be oil from when changing the oil filter that was never cleaned up because it kinda just goes everywhere. I did change the oil about 1000 miles ago. However nothing ever seems to be completely wet on the middle of the engine, only towards the bottoms near and under the oil pan, but i could always be wrong. It is also a pretty slow leak, because since changing the oil its only probably gone down 1/3 of a qt. I will definitely look into that once i get the chance though. Will also send pictures!

Honda's are NOTORIOUS for consuming oil, especially the VTEC engines. So do not be surprised if you are down .5-1QT by the time you change your oil. This is why it is ALWAYS recommended to check our oil level every 3 times you fill up the gas tank. That will be about 1000 miles of easy driving so expect up to a 1/4-qt to get consumed.

If you start consuming more than that, monitor your exhaust color for blue hues of burning oil. Thick white hues is coolant which is always associated with bubbles in the radiator, but I have really gone off the trail now. At any rate, love the CIntegra

 

[nd4sped]

@Brak @XpL0d3r ^

 

[Brak]

@Brak @XpL0d3r ^

What'd I miss???

Cool Car BTW

 

[spooky12k]

What'd I miss???

Cool Car BTW

Hey thanks!

 

[spooky12k]

Honda's are NOTORIOUS for consuming oil, especially the VTEC engines. So do not be surprised if you are down .5-1QT by the time you change your oil. This is why it is ALWAYS recommended to check our oil level every 3 times you fill up the gas tank. That will be about 1000 miles of easy driving so expect up to a 1/4-qt to get consumed.

If you start consuming more than that, monitor your exhaust color for blue hues of burning oil. Thick white hues is coolant which is always associated with bubbles in the radiator, but I have really gone off the trail now. At any rate, love the CIntegra

Yeah just about every car i've owned used oil and leaked oil, which to me if its leaking oil, means it has oil LOL. But in all seriousness, I dont think this car uses much oil, the engine allegedly when swapped had about 80k on it, and the engine is really healthy, as for Exhaust color, it doesnt smoke at all except when its cold, which is to be expected.