95 civic turbo questions

[evan.larose1]

Hello im new here. Nice to see fellow Honda enthusiasts. Before winter hit last year I bought a:

95 Honda Civic ex
d16z6 "STOCK internals"
t3/t4 turbo "godspeed"
intercooler
2 step launch control at 4k
10 psi tuned on chrome
Stage 2 clutch, short throw shifter
Open downpipe cut off right by the trans case. Just faces downwards

My questions are as follows:

This is my first turbo car.. I have had a 94 integra b18. 94 accord. Ext. But I needed a turbo so I bought this car with everything set up. At least I thought.. I've been burning through oil. " running synthetic now 5.w30. Guy said it was a new turbo. Pulls hard. I was neck and neck with my friends EVO x. Anyhow I know I need a different tune. ARP head studs to turn the boost up. I turned it up to around 14 or 15 psi and I haven't held it there in boost long but it felt great. Should I turn boost controller down if it was tuned to 10 psi? I know stock internals should only be able to handle around 9 or 11 psi at max but I had to feel what it was capable of.

Since I bought the car the valve cover bolt broke off inside of the engine the headers needed to be replaced so I bought new ones same style but 2 of the header bolts broke off but still have a clean seal with no leak. Seems like the way you skate Wiggles around when I rev it it feels like it's on there tight but it shouldn't be moving should it? The rear main seal is leaking oil. And it overheats if I go too hard on it . spilling antifreeze from the overfill when it gets hot. I have it on a relay switch for my radiator fan. Stock radiator.

I want to make this car my cruze car that I dont have to worry about all the time. But I need it to stop eating oil and overheating. I will take the turbo piping off and see if there is oil in there if so I know my turbo is bad. But just want some thoughts there obviously is something is wrong with this car I will post pics. This is the car I wanted. I know I need internals built up but I got to find a good source and shop.

Thank you for reading I know it's a lot but I didn't know where to start with so many different problems I have a mechanic but he is lazy. Most of the work was said to have been done in a Volkswagen shop. But the ECU is sitting on the floor bored lol haven't had time to mount it up.. Ugh more stress than I thought. But the feel and sound of the turbo is worth it.

I also have a 96 ex d16y8 stock just sitting around. Any suggestions to make it more reliable and faster would be greatly appreciated thank you

 

[mymmeryloss]

Cliff notes anyone?

 

[evan.larose1]

Hello im new here. Nice to see fellow Honda enthusiasts. Before winter hit last year I bought a 95 Honda Civic ex d16z6 "STOCK internals" swap. t3/t4 turbo "godspeed".intercooled ect
. Has 2 step launch control at 4k . on 10 psi tuned on chrome. Stage 2 clutch. Short throw. Open downpipe cut off right by the trans case. Just faces downwards .. My questions are as follows. This is my first turbo car.. I have had a 94 integra b18. 94 accord. Ext. But I needed a turbo so I bought this car with everything set up. At least I thought.. I've been burning through oil. " running synthetic now 5.w30. Guy said it was a new turbo. Pulls hard. I was neck and neck with my friends EVO x. Anyhow I know I need a different tune. ARP head studs to turn the boost up. I turned it up to around 14 or 15 psi and I haven't held it there in boost long but it felt great. Should I turn boost controller down if it was tuned to 10 psi? I know stock internals should only be able to handle around 9 or 11 psi at max but I had to feel what it was capable of. Since I bought the car the valve cover bolt broke off inside of the engine the headers needed to be replaced so I bought new ones same style but 2 of the header bolts broke off but still have a clean seal with no leak. Seems like the way you skate Wiggles around when I rev it it feels like it's on there tight but it shouldn't be moving should it? The rear main seal is leaking oil. And it overheats if I go too hard on it . spilling antifreeze from the overfill when it gets hot. I have it on a relay switch for my radiator fan. Stock radiator. I want to make this car my cruze car that I dont have to worry about all the time. But I need it to stop eating oil and overheating. I will take the turbo piping off and see if there is oil in there if so I know my turbo is bad. But just want some thoughts there obviously is something is wrong with this car I will post pics. This is the car I wanted. I know I need internals built up but I got to find a good source and shop. Thank you for reading I know it's a lot but I didn't know where to start with so many different problems I have a mechanic but he is lazy. Most of the work was said to have been done in a Volkswagen shop. But the ECU is sitting on the floor bored lol haven't had time to mount it up.. Ugh more stress than I thought. But the feel and sound of the turbo is worth it. I also have a 96 ex d16y8 stock just sitting around. Any suggestions to make it more reliable and faster would be greatly appreciated thank you

 

[joe7987]

Cliff notes anyone?

Turbocharged vehicle burning oil. OP doesn't seem to know a ton about turbocharged vehicles, but recently bought one. Has a question about boost controller settings in addition to diagnosing the oil leak.

@evan.larose1 - First of all, Welcome to ClubCivic! I'm not an expert in the questions you're asking, but I have a little bit of advice to help you get your answers. First, try to break up your text into paragraphs to make it easier to read and better organize it, making sure to emphasize your main questions. This will help people more quickly understand your problem so they can give you a better answer. Second, make sure to post in the appropriate section. This section is only for new member introductions. I'm going to go ahead and move this post to a tech form for you so that members who are looking to answer tech questions can find it more easily.

 

[evan.larose1]

Ahh I appreciate it. Sorry about the on going paragraph.
I have been trying to learn how to post to the civic form that I'm subscribed to but Dont know how.
The new members section was the only way I could get a post out here it seemed.
How will I find my thread, and yes I will clean it up I appreciate your help.
Thankyou

 

[lethal6]

Ahh I appreciate it. Sorry about the on going paragraph.
I have been trying to learn how to post to the civic form that I'm subscribed to but Dont know how.
The new members section was the only way I could get a post out here it seemed.
How will I find my thread, and yes I will clean it up I appreciate your help.
Thankyou

What are you talking about? You mean, you can't find the thread you are posting in right now? You posted in here 3 times now. There is only 3 places you aren't allowed to post in; classifieds, VIP, and OG sections. EVERY other section, you post in it the same way you just did in the post 4 above this one.

Did a mod merge posts from somewhere else?

Get that car do a competent mechanic ASAP. With it leaking and overheating it WILL NOT last very long, if you already haven't done irreparable damage. If your mechanic is "lazy" find a new one.

It sounds and looks like it was "hacked" together. I would recommend finding a reputable tuner to have the car gone over and retuned properly before driving it anymore.

 

[evan.larose1]

. OK. For instance how do I start a thread on here? This is a frustrating app to use..my friend told me to use it and all I keep doing is asking more questions as how to post on a forum I'm subscribed to. It's not easy like it was to post here for some reason.

 

[lethal6]

So you are trying to post yet ANOTHER thread? You already have a thread going. Posting another for the same subject will just get deleted for multiple posting. Just continue with this thread if you have anything to add. You can obviously post because you have just done it again.

Tapatalk has to be the easiest forum app to navigate. I am not even on it right now and can still describe it. Pull down the drop menu that has the forum sections (top left of your picture that says the forum name), find the section you are wanting to post in, pull up the drop down menu on the right that says post new topic and then post it.

 

[evan.larose1]

Okey just making sure it was in the right spot I think the moderator moved it so it is. Thankyou

 

[evan.larose1]

I can post a video of my setup. I would like some suggestions as to where I should move on to next?
ARP head studs coming soon.

 

[I_GOT_BOOST]

Since nobody answered any of the questions I'll answer one turn your boost down lol

 

[XpL0d3r]

Ok hereee we go!

1. Don't use Tapatalk. It sucks, it's confusing, and you are proof of this. Justin (admin here) just updated the mobile look, so just go to clubcivic.com on your mobile device, ignore any Tapatalk prompts, and just browse the forums like you would any normal website.

I slightly edited your post to seem a little more readable. You already got the lecture on that so no need for me to reiterate. But I wanted to give you a heads up on this as I'll be quoting pieces of your text below:

This is my first turbo car.. I have had a 94 integra b18. 94 accord. Ext. But I needed a turbo so I bought this car with everything set up. At least I thought.. I've been burning through oil. " running synthetic now 5.w30. Guy said it was a new turbo. Pulls hard. I was neck and neck with my friends EVO x. Anyhow I know I need a different tune.

If you know you need a tune, do NOT turn the boost up any more. The higher the boost on an unstable tune, the shorter the fuse (margin of error) your engine has until it blows up. Forcing extra air into an engine requires proportional fuel. Starve it of fuel and you cause detonation. Detonation pretty much means your engine is garbage.

ARP head studs to turn the boost up. I turned it up to around 14 or 15 psi and I haven't held it there in boost long but it felt great. Should I turn boost controller down if it was tuned to 10 psi? I know stock internals should only be able to handle around 9 or 11 psi at max but I had to feel what it was capable of.

Sounds like you already answered your own question here (as did I_GOT_BOOST).. yes, turn it down. You're going to cause the head to lift off the block and cause all sorts of leaks otherwise (ask me how I know this lol). A D16 shouldn't see more than 9 PSI, and even then is a stretch. I would not go past 9.5 PSI on my B18, and those are generally known to hold boost better than a D-series motor. I know you want to see what it's capable of, but don't make a $$$$ mistake by being impatient. A build done right won't be done overnight, but you can surely destroy a motor in seconds if you tried.

Since I bought the car the valve cover bolt broke off inside of the engine the headers needed to be replaced so I bought new ones same style but 2 of the header bolts broke off but still have a clean seal with no leak.

Why do you need to replace the turbo manifold (not header since you're boosted, and definitely not headerS since you only have one) because of a broken VC bolt? If you snapped a VC bolt it's not a major deal as long as there's no leaks. Eventually you will want it replaced, preferrably next time you pull the head to replace the studs with ARP ones. If you have ANY sort of exahust leak here, get it fixed before you get the car re-tuned.

Seems like the way you skate Wiggles around when I rev it it feels like it's on there tight but it shouldn't be moving should it?

What?? I can't skate for beans, wrong forum for this question.

The rear main seal is leaking oil. And it overheats if I go too hard on it . spilling antifreeze from the overfill when it gets hot. I have it on a relay switch for my radiator fan. Stock radiator.

Yeah, get that seal replaced. Pro-tip: don't go hard on the motor! You know it needs a re-tune, you know it's leaking fluid and overheating... why potentially damage the motor? It's like you're slapping a hornets nest.. eventually they're going to come out and play - not in a good way either.

I want to make this car my cruze car that I dont have to worry about all the time.

A turbo car is not the right choice for this.

But I need it to stop eating oil and overheating. I will take the turbo piping off and see if there is oil in there if so I know my turbo is bad. But just want some thoughts there obviously is something is wrong with this car I will post pics.

It sounds like you know it has some bad seals, etc... start there and get those replaced. Your turbo may not be bad, it might just need new oil seals. However, you did mention that the turbo was new. That's either a lie, or you've severely beaten on it too hard.

I know I need internals built up but I got to find a good source and shop. Thank you for reading I know it's a lot but I didn't know where to start with so many different problems I have a mechanic but he is lazy.

You need a new mechanic. If he's lazy, go somewhere else.

But the ECU is sitting on the floor bored lol haven't had time to mount it up.. Ugh more stress than I thought.

That should take you no more than 5 minutes! It can be a pain to fit in there and not have it feel like you're crushing some wires, but you'll be fine. I never actually bolted mine back in, just tucked it in and put the kick panel back on.

But the feel and sound of the turbo is worth it.

It IS! You will have a TON of fun with boost. Just make sure to do it right. Do NOT be impatient, and don't go cheap with it. Get everything you need fixed taken care of, and then find a place to get her retuned. Your car and wallet will thank you for your time and patience.

 

[evan.larose1]

Ok hereee we go!

1. Don't use Tapatalk. It sucks, it's confusing, and you are proof of this. Justin (admin here) just updated the mobile look, so just go to clubcivic.com on your mobile device, ignore any Tapatalk prompts, and just browse the forums like you would any normal website.

I slightly edited your post to seem a little more readable. You already got the lecture on that so no need for me to reiterate. But I wanted to give you a heads up on this as I'll be quoting pieces of your text below:



If you know you need a tune, do NOT turn the boost up any more. The higher the boost on an unstable tune, the shorter the fuse (margin of error) your engine has until it blows up. Forcing extra air into an engine requires proportional fuel. Starve it of fuel and you cause detonation. Detonation pretty much means your engine is garbage.



Sounds like you already answered your own question here (as did I_GOT_BOOST).. yes, turn it down. You're going to cause the head to lift off the block and cause all sorts of leaks otherwise (ask me how I know this lol). A D16 shouldn't see more than 9 PSI, and even then is a stretch. I would not go past 9.5 PSI on my B18, and those are generally known to hold boost better than a D-series motor. I know you want to see what it's capable of, but don't make a $$$$ mistake by being impatient. A build done right won't be done overnight, but you can surely destroy a motor in seconds if you tried.



Why do you need to replace the turbo manifold (not header since you're boosted, and definitely not headerS since you only have one) because of a broken VC bolt? If you snapped a VC bolt it's not a major deal as long as there's no leaks. Eventually you will want it replaced, preferrably next time you pull the head to replace the studs with ARP ones. If you have ANY sort of exahust leak here, get it fixed before you get the car re-tuned.



What?? I can't skate for beans, wrong forum for this question. [emoji38]



Yeah, get that seal replaced. Pro-tip: don't go hard on the motor! You know it needs a re-tune, you know it's leaking fluid and overheating... why potentially damage the motor? It's like you're slapping a hornets nest.. eventually they're going to come out and play - not in a good way either.



A turbo car is not the right choice for this.



It sounds like you know it has some bad seals, etc... start there and get those replaced. Your turbo may not be bad, it might just need new oil seals. However, you did mention that the turbo was new. That's either a lie, or you've severely beaten on it too hard.



You need a new mechanic. If he's lazy, go somewhere else.


That should take you no more than 5 minutes! It can be a pain to fit in there and not have it feel like you're crushing some wires, but you'll be fine. I never actually bolted mine back in, just tucked it in and put the kick panel back on.



It IS! You will have a TON of fun with boost. Just make sure to do it right. Do NOT be impatient, and don't go cheap with it. Get everything you need fixed taken care of, and then find a place to get her retuned. Your car and wallet will thank you for your time and patience.

Lol I ment to type the wastegate seems to rattle at low revs even. Replaced the gasket with it. Might need to use different bolts. I'll post pics.
Thank you soo much for spending the time to answer my questions.
I had to replace the turbo header it was cracked. I didn't type all of that correctly.
So yes I will turn down the boost to ten. Will take a Lil to get it back on 10 I use a SRT boost guage.
I just got tired of the boost controller throwing me back when I hit ten. Just got to let it ride around 9 till 7200 then shift. I get a lot of fule when i boost coming in from the floorboard, if I hook my 4 inch exhaust back up will I lose power?. I love how it sounds like a truck/ SRT 4 lol. Makes small children cry hah
. any how I really am focused on the cooling and loss of oil.
Time to fix what someone else started. Ugh.
Nothing like a turbo though. Makes my friends jealous lol
I will look into does tunes around here.

 

[XpL0d3r]

Haha, damn that autocorrect!

Yeah, if your wastegate is rattling either it's not seated properly or there's an issue with the spring inside.

By turbo header you mean the turbo manifold -- yeah, those are prone to cracking. I know you said you replaced it already, but if you didn't replace it with an iron cast mani, it might happen again.

Definitely turn the boost down until you can get those issues fixed. I know it's crazy fun and your buddies will be jealous.. but for how it sits now if you keep beating on it chances are they'll be making fun of you once you're out of an engine

There will surely be tuners in your area, just make sure they know how to tune Crome

 

[evan.larose1]

Yeh I need a Blackworks manifold.
I will turn it down. The ecl came on the other day.. Worried me since when I shut it off and then turn it back on it goes away. This time it didn't
So now I been driving it lightly to make sure it Dont come on again. It only happens when I hit the rev limiter " rarely" and it flickers as to tell me to shift.
Might have a bad oil return line
.
I'll have to pull the turbo and the pipe to see if there is oil I hope not. Eh if so I'll upgrade.
But not before internals
.

And by you saying you only ran 9 on the b 18 on stock?. Makes me feel like I should just build this one up.
I could put the y8 cylinder head on it. More flow.?

 

[mc360]

first thing you need to do is get rid of the horrible chinese tubular manifold, they almost always will end up cracking at the weld. next thing you need to do is not turn the boost up, the tuner could have interpolated the map and gave the tune a little leeway but even then its basically just the program guessing at how much fueling is need beyond what the tuner tuned for.

if your getting coolant spewing out of the overflow then you probably lifted the head and ruined the head gasket , all this is because you turned the boost up past where it was tuned and it didnt have enough fuel or it had to much timing and caused detonation and head lift.

 

[Esotericimage]

^^
I didnt read it, but when I saw the cheapo manifold, i went to another thread..


Ill second the headlift.

 

[Mr.Baker]

Hello im new here. Nice to see fellow Honda enthusiasts. Before winter hit last year I bought a:

95 Honda Civic ex
d16z6 "STOCK internals"
t3/t4 turbo "godspeed"
intercooler
2 step launch control at 4k
10 psi tuned on chrome
I have had a 94 integra b18. 94 accord. Ext. But I needed a turbo so I bought this car with everything set up.

From the sounds of it, you didn't buy a "car with everything set up", you purchased someone's hack job headache that they couldn't finish, now it's your headache.
Sell all 3 cars, buy something with a factory turbo. End headaches.

 

[evan.larose1]

I was wondering how you knew I have 3 cars hah.
Yeh I have a 96 civic and a 97 Chrysler cirrus 2.5 v6, no accord or acura.. Lol

I think that is a good idea to sell all three but I like my black one. I want to make this one fast though.
I do need respectable parts I understand that I appreciate the help.
I know its some cheap parts but its a good start.
I was almost beating a brand EVO x with him having a intake and stock turbo. I think that's pretty good for this car.
So you are saying to get a car with a stock turbo... What Honda are you talking about? Lol

 

[evan.larose1]

So no other suggestions except bashing on a car I bought this way?
Like I said yeah it has cheap parts.. But some not like the stage 2 clutch, ecu,.swapped engine. Its a good start to what I want.
I'll spend the extra money to get it right.
I want to stay Honda for all the Honda haters out there, its still great when I blow past people with my "cheap Japanese parts".
Just would like to make it faster, build up the engine and make it more reliable.
Yes I probably lifted the head without the ARP head studs.. Will turn boost back down to 10. Considering the tune.
And yes it was a Mexican guy. I bought his headache.
This sight should be full of mechanics..not someone who would tell me to get a different car.
What Honda comes with a stock turbo? Besides the new type r.. Your on a civic forum. I Dont want a car with a stock turbo.. If I did I would have gotten the Audi 2.7 bi turbo . those engines are like glass.
I have a nice shell if anything and a good d16z6 to work with non the less.
I guess I will be doing I thread on the rebuild of this so called " headache" . last time I checked people who work on cars like to help people fix what they have.
So I came to a civic forum and get told to buy a different car. Hm

first thing you need to do is get rid of the horrible chinese tubular manifold, they almost always will end up cracking at the weld. next thing you need to do is not turn the boost up, the tuner could have interpolated the map and gave the tune a little leeway but even then its basically just the program guessing at how much fueling is need beyond what the tuner tuned for.

if your getting coolant spewing out of the overflow then you probably lifted the head and ruined the head gasket , all this is because you turned the boost up past where it was tuned and it didnt have enough fuel or it had to much timing and caused detonation and head lift.

What brand would you suggest. I was going to go with blackworks . just bought these to hold me over since the other ones cracked where all 4 pipes meet.
Gunna turn down the boost gotta play with it now to get it back to 10.
Would the tune be the same after that or by me turning it up did it mess up whatever tune the guy had it on?
How would I know if he tuned it? It's running on 93 premium gas. .I'll take a video of the idle and what not I'm gunna go for a cruze now.

Or if I leave it at 15 and Dont boost past 9 would the tune be different is my real question