95 civic turbo questions

[evan.larose1]

I'm harsh, but realistic.
I don't know everything and am not looking to "win".
But, what I do know is what I have learned from 1st hand experiences throughout the years as well as reading up on builds, both good and bad, to kind of give me a gauge of what to do, what not to do and how to troubleshoot.
It really burns me to see folks who don't know what they're doing, buy something with their hard earned money, then not know what to do with it, nor do it correctly.
I appreciate everything else you said otherwise.
Good luck, and will try to help where i can.

Well I appreciate that and I respect anyone who has done it already. Yeah that's how I feel. Looking back I wish I would have done more research before buying this car.
I thank ya for your help I need all the advice I can get.
Gunna be a long road.

@q

 

[Mr.Baker]

Looking back I wish I would have done more research before buying this car.

Which is why I gave the advice of selling it and either buying something that already comes from the factory with a turbo, OR find a better quality build, especially for the money you may sink into this.
I'm thinking you'd be farther ahead financially and prob have a better starting point.

 

[evan.larose1]

. I didn't hold boost just blow off messing around

Which is why I gave the advice of selling it and either buying something that already comes from the factory with a turbo, OR find a better quality build, especially for the money you may sink into this.
I'm thinking you'd be farther ahead financially and prob have a better starting point.

Yeh I'm kind of at a loss. Its either sell all 3. Sell 2 and put money into this. Or sell one keep the other Honda for parts and build.
But the look on those guys faces when I pulled away from them with their coal rolling power stroke I pulled over after doing 110 ..sat on the hood and felt the best I've felt in a long time. Nothing . I mean nothing compares to that rush.

 

[evan.larose1]

Thank you lethal6 I need to learn my punctuation better sorry bud

 

[lethal6]

Thank you lethal6 I need to learn my punctuation better sorry bud

I don't fix grammar, punctuation, or anything like that, that's on the writer if they/you want to put a post out that bad. LOL. All I am doing is merging your multiple posts. The ones that are right after another, putting them into one post.

 

[evan.larose1]

Ah well thank you

 

[mc360]

View attachment 25315


Well I appreciate that and I respect anyone who has done it already. Yeah that's how I feel. Looking back I wish I would have done more research before buying this car.
I thank ya for your help I need all the advice I can get.
Gunna be a long road.

@q

This right here is why you lifted your head gasket, you shouldn't be anywhere near 14.5:1 afr in boost especially at 7 psi. I run 8 psi on my turbo civic making 222whp, I'm running about 13.3:1afr from -0.4 inch of vacuum until 3psi of boost, 3+ psi and I'm running 12.5:1afr. I bet when you turned up the boost to 15 psi you were probably running 16:1afr or more.

My advise is to use an oem d16 headgasket stay away from felpro from what I have read, also get a goautoworks cast manifold or a cheap ebay replica cast manifold, they don't look as cool but they won't break on you and let your turbo disappear down the road when it does break off.

 

[evan.larose1]

In these videos I had the boost set at 10 . and it was colder that day seems the temp affects the air...?
I have heard to use OEM as well but... And I was going to get a cast just for that reason but I would have had to change my piping around and possibly move the turbo.
I had the bolts come off from the last one the guy did..lol luckily it held on by the intercooler piping hah

I just recently turned it up to 15 like 3 weeks ago not even

This right here is why you lifted your head gasket, you shouldn't be anywhere near 14.5:1 afr in boost especially at 7 psi. I run 8 psi on my turbo civic making 222whp, I'm running about 13.3:1afr from -0.4 inch of vacuum until 3psi of boost, 3+ psi and I'm running 12.5:1afr. I bet when you turned up the boost to 15 psi you were probably running 16:1afr or more.

My advise is to use an oem d16 headgasket stay away from felpro from what I have read, also get a goautoworks cast manifold or a cheap ebay replica cast manifold, they don't look as cool but they won't break on you and let your turbo disappear down the road when it does break off.

So how can I change the ratio

 

[XpL0d3r]

So how can I change the ratio

A new head gasket and a proper tune.

When I was at full boost my AFR would drop to 11-12:1.

Basically you're running lean compared to what you should be under boost. Car isn't getting enough fuel to deal with all that forced air... if you get a boost spike I can pretty much assure you detonation is going to occur...

 

[mc360]

yes the colder air does effect it, colder air is more dense so you get more air into the engine. who ever tuned the car did a shitty job and didnt tune the ect or iat tables probably, or if they did they did a shitty job at it. colder intake air temp usually is tuned to add more fuel then as it warms up the sensor sees what part of the map to take fuel from and starts removing the multiplier for the additional fuel from the cold air, the engine coolant temp sensor does the same thing and they both work together to keep your engines fuel where it needs to be for the weather you are driving in.

 

[evan.larose1]

yes the colder air does effect it, colder air is more dense so you get more air into the engine. who ever tuned the car did a shitty job and didnt tune the ect or iat tables probably, or if they did they did a shitty job at it. colder intake air temp usually is tuned to add more fuel then as it warms up the sensor sees what part of the map to take fuel from and starts removing the multiplier for the additional fuel from the cold air, the engine coolant temp sensor does the same thing and they both work together to keep your engines fuel where it needs to be for the weather you are driving in.

Very informative. Yeah there is a real science to this tuning. Like everyone says its all in the tune. Wow.
Well man I do have to say you know your stuff.
I will be searching for the best tuner around Detroit or Pontiac. I have been hearing a good tune will cost me around $900..?
I will have to check my Afr on the way home from work just now it was around 13 just at idle now.. Almost sounds like it is misfiring. I'll check spark and timing.
Turn boost down. Just got to find a good tuner. Ugh

A new head gasket and a proper tune.

When I was at full boost my AFR would drop to 11-12:1.

Basically you're running lean compared to what you should be under boost. Car isn't getting enough fuel to deal with all that forced air... if you get a boost spike I can pretty much assure you detonation is going to occur...

Okey I will get the new Hg. But there seems to be controversy between OEM head gasket and the as stated Hg by mc
. I Dont want to start a which Hg is better war. You guys have been sop helpful I always look forward to responses. Nice to have people actually care. Exelent feedback guys .make me feel better.

. Just messing around in traffic .. Sorry about the sloppy shift.. Hardc to video tape and shift and drive at the same time need a go pro lol

That's another thing there as you can see in the video I would have to fluctuate around 10 psi bringing down and go back up again so that I wouldn't hit boost control and throw me forward shutting down the boost. I'm used to in a car so I'm used to just mashing the gas instead of halfway throttle until almost full boost then holding it at that psi until I shift or try to get the most out of it by spiking it almost. I have seen guys pumping the throttle it seems when they hit the rev as if they are getting more out of the gear. I have not done this since I feel it puts strain on the flywheel an trans ect?

 

[mc360]

i dont know a lot but i know enough to get me by and help out a little, the guy who tuned my car did a really shitty job. he only tuned fuel and timing, didnt touch vtec crossover or the ect or iat multiplier tables so my car had a hot start problem and as winter came it began showing cold start issues to from not enough fuel or to much fuel in certain areas. i ended up learning enough to modify the tune just enough to where i dont get these problems as often.

90% of the people on d-series.org will tell you to run oem mls gasket, i recommend that you check the head for flatness and if needed get it surfaced (make sure the machine shop doesnt use a belt sander to surface the head). another thing you should be running 14.7:1 afr or as close as possible in vacuum which is anything below 0psi on your gauge, as you get closer to zero is should get richer and as you enter boost it should stead out at about 12.5:1 afr. here is a quick little fuel map edit i made so you can get the idea, the first 3-4 rows and columns are your idle aread which is why the numbers are so low. this map looks kind of bad to me ( its not mine i got it from google)

 

[Esotericimage]

I always ran at 10.9AFR WOT and tried to keep it at 12.5 until full boost..

But to each their own.

head shave, OEM HG, ARP studs and a retune from a reputable tuner should fix it.

If it were me, I would use Neptune and an electric boost controller. I never liked relying on a spring. The EBC will pop it on time, everytime,

 

[evan.larose1]

. 15.3 now 14.8 at idle when first turned on
Well see at boost to see how much I'm off now

 

[mc360]

It's OK to be lean at idle with no load on the motor, it's bad to be lean in boost since it causes more heat and more chance of detonation. I tuned my civic to run about 15.5:1 in light throttle/vacuum areas to help with gas mileage a little.

 

[evan.larose1]

13.8 on 6-7 psi on the way to work.
And man I pulled behind this kid in a ford st. Took me everything I had not to pull up next to him. No point in racing if tune is not right. Still wanted to see what he had. I beat one before when I first got it. Stock one though
...ruined my morning not being able to run. Ugh tuning problems... But yeh 13.8 was the lowest I got it down to.well see after work

 

[Esotericimage]

So Im guessing that wideband flashing in the video ment that you wre lean as hell..

 

[lethal6]

So Im guessing that wideband flashing in the video ment that you wre lean as hell..

Could be.

It could also be that L.E.D. doesn't show up in video very well; they show up as flashing lights because technically they are constantly flashing, but the human eye doesn't pick it up. The video does though because of the frame rate. That is why you see videos with cars that have L.E.D. tail lights on programs like top gear and they always look like they are driving around with the hazards on.

 

[evan.larose1]

Wish I knew how to tune:/. But yeh the lights fluctuate

 

[Esotericimage]

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