98 Civic LX sedan project rebuild
- Thread starter Hondad78
- Start date
Yeah, I have used their air filters on my truck and have no complaints. the bushings I have used before on my old 99 si and the feel is much improved over stock.
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Progress, got the intake mocked up. Sorting the wiring, had to remove some loom to get all the connectors to reach. Before I set it in for good I just want to re tape it all to protect the exposed wires.
If anyone is wondering I used the y7 throttle body with y7 gasket, y7 injectors, y7 fuel rail, y8 throttle rotor and y8 throttle cable on the intake manifold. Need to get caps to block off the open ports for vacuum.
Fuel Filter installed, I should be able to start it soon. I want to paint the valve cover however I just want to see if it will run. I should just do it now while all the gaskets are off. here is a pic or three.
If anyone is wondering I used the y7 throttle body with y7 gasket, y7 injectors, y7 fuel rail, y8 throttle rotor and y8 throttle cable on the intake manifold. Need to get caps to block off the open ports for vacuum.
Fuel Filter installed, I should be able to start it soon. I want to paint the valve cover however I just want to see if it will run. I should just do it now while all the gaskets are off. here is a pic or three.
Intake Manifold done. Connected the battery and the fuse for the fuel pump. Pump primed and I didn't notice any leaks so I think the car is good there.
Next up is to get the clutch line pressurized and then connect the radiator and lines and shift linkage. I will focus on the valve cover after that and then probably try to start it.
Ordered a Blox sandwich plate and will get an electronic oil pressure gauge. Getting close.
Next up is to get the clutch line pressurized and then connect the radiator and lines and shift linkage. I will focus on the valve cover after that and then probably try to start it.
Ordered a Blox sandwich plate and will get an electronic oil pressure gauge. Getting close.
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Picked up some goodies. The oil filter is just for start up, I will be switching to OEM after break in and synthetic motor oil. Not installing the sandwich plate until the oil gauge comes in. Also waiting on the VHS wrinkle paint for the valve cover. yeah buddy
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mocked up the intake to check fitment. AEM short ram that came off the donor car. It will do for now, also the y8 throttle cable is in.
Having some issues getting good pressure on the clutch, it works but feel it should be stiffer. need to address that. Shift linkage is in with the new bushings, stock shifter for now. I will take a pic of the interior, it is pretty gutted. it is not my daily just a toy, wanna be race car. more soon.
mocked up the intake to check fitment. AEM short ram that came off the donor car. It will do for now, also the y8 throttle cable is in.
Having some issues getting good pressure on the clutch, it works but feel it should be stiffer. need to address that. Shift linkage is in with the new bushings, stock shifter for now. I will take a pic of the interior, it is pretty gutted. it is not my daily just a toy, wanna be race car. more soon.
thanks, I was going to use standard oil for the start up, when is it safe to use synthetic?
I found this online, good to know.
An engine needs to be properly broken-in before using synthetic oil. A high zinc, conventional oil is recommended to break-in the cam, lifters and piston rings. Not all break-in oils are the same. Choose a break-in oil that does not contain Molybdenum or other friction modifiers.
These additives can slow down the time it takes for the rings to seat. High zinc, low detergent and no friction modifiers is the best way to break-in a new or re-built engine and get it ready for synthetic oil.
An engine needs to be properly broken-in before using synthetic oil. A high zinc, conventional oil is recommended to break-in the cam, lifters and piston rings. Not all break-in oils are the same. Choose a break-in oil that does not contain Molybdenum or other friction modifiers.
These additives can slow down the time it takes for the rings to seat. High zinc, low detergent and no friction modifiers is the best way to break-in a new or re-built engine and get it ready for synthetic oil.
When i built my motor i dumped the oil at 250mi then 500mi again at 1k and started using royal purple from there. I guess it depends on builder but my motor was new from crank bearings to cams. Did you change oil pump, crank, rod bearings and all or just freshen it up?
Sent from my boujea ass phone
Sent from my boujea ass phone
Ok, I was going to do a similar schedule. I will wait until after 1k and switch out to synthetic, thanks.
Original pump just cleaned up, port/shim. Stock crank polished and new acl bearings.
Here is something other then pictures of my engine. My crusty bumper! This was actually from the donor car along with the grill. Is in better shape then my original one surprisingly enough. So yeah, I had to take it off after realizing the lights go on first.
Started cleaning the valve cover, you can see the results after 10 minutes with some steel wool and a scotchbrite pad. Needs alot more cleaning.
Started cleaning the valve cover, you can see the results after 10 minutes with some steel wool and a scotchbrite pad. Needs alot more cleaning.
Paint is on the valve cover, took way longer then expected. A lot of prep work, the results are decent. A few runs here and there but not bad for first attempt. Still needs some dry time
and I want to clean up the letters a bit more, it will do.
Also got the sandwich plate on and the oil sensor, applied some thread sealer. Ran the cable into the cabin. Still need to wire power for the gauge.
and I want to clean up the letters a bit more, it will do.
Also got the sandwich plate on and the oil sensor, applied some thread sealer. Ran the cable into the cabin. Still need to wire power for the gauge.
