Just make sure if you get a used block its not cracked (a machine shop will tell you), I would do the rings just so you know they'll last that much longer. And head studs. Just really research on what block you decide to go with 
Bad news :(
- Thread starter em1civicsi
- Start date
Why on earth would you do that?
And you won't get a terrible lot of power unless you get the internals to support the b16 head on a lower compression block
WOW BUDDY SLOW YOUR ROLL......the op said he has no money and no job right im giving him a option OK?!!!! no matter what he does if he doesnt do the work himself it will be very costly.
engine removal
dissasembly
then machine shop cost
plus the block
IMHO i think it would be easier buying another bseries longblock using his tranny and harness and selling his head which is easily $350+ sh*t ill buy his b16 head for $350. a ls long block from junk yard if he's lucky maybe $500, i bought mine for $200. So yea quickest turn around and cheapest IMHO is a y8 swap, then a ls longblock, and the purchasing a seperate block/ lsv, or machine shop but hey if im wrong im sure someone is going to chime in
True crash but he would have more displacement but i think this is a topic of another post ya think? Im getting the feeling conveyed that
A. its his only car
B. he has no source of income i.e he doesnt work
C. obviuosly a d series in a em1 is a sin
but it is still a optionIt'd be sooooo much cheaper to just pick up an ls block. Around here you can find one for like $300 bucks or so depending. And all you have to do is bolt it in.
That would be the cheapest and easiest route. Even better, find a buddy who can help you do this. It's not difficult. I've helped many times. Just make sure to find someone who knows what they're doing. Or just find threads on swapping engines.
That would be the cheapest and easiest route. Even better, find a buddy who can help you do this. It's not difficult. I've helped many times. Just make sure to find someone who knows what they're doing. Or just find threads on swapping engines.
RonJ
Banned
Let me explain my post. It sounds like the timing belt skipped a tooth or two and the piston collided with a valve. If correct, this means the head and block are damaged. If so, consider shopping for a replacement engine.
omfg thats y i said get a ls longblock even if he gets a a ls block for $300 then a lsv kit which is $200
=500
arp bolts 125
$625 then if he has the knowledge or the capacity to do all this
imho ls long block $500-$600 on a bad day
- b16 head $350 makes it a $150-200 parts fix
pls prove me im wrong ....we are talkin about a person who has no income or means of doing it himself. if so build a b20v monster bbbbbuuuuuuuttttt i get the sense that ist wat this thread is about
So I bought a b18b1 bock from a guy on honda-tech. I went to his house and he has his own business and he says he has been doing motor swaps builds, etc...for many years, I'LL GET TO THE POINT....my mechanic looked at the block and right away he says there should be lines in the cylinder where the pistons come up and down, is he right? Also I called the guy back and he says that it's normal, so I don't know what to do here, I'm really sorry if I sounds like a noob because I'AM!
Here is the link to the ad, I hope it's not deleted yet....
(This is what he wrote incase the ad gets deleted....
B18b1 Built For LsV or High Compression Ls.
Block has 0 miles at the moment.
Specs:
Balanced rotating assembly.
Brand new Type R Pistons w/ Brand new Npr rings.
New King main bearings.
New Acl rod bearings.
New Acl thrust washers.
JDM ITR oil pump.
Assembled with assembly lube and Honda Bond.
Block was hot tanked, and fully checked.
Complete with wind tray, oil pick up and oil pan.
It's ready to go.
First come first serve as always.
$540 firm, not interested in any trades.
Text me @ 909-565-8123
If you need more pics just text me.)
http://hondamarketplace.com/showthread.php?t=3033430&highlight=b18b1
Here are pics I took...
Here is the link to the ad, I hope it's not deleted yet....
(This is what he wrote incase the ad gets deleted....
B18b1 Built For LsV or High Compression Ls.
Block has 0 miles at the moment.
Specs:
Balanced rotating assembly.
Brand new Type R Pistons w/ Brand new Npr rings.
New King main bearings.
New Acl rod bearings.
New Acl thrust washers.
JDM ITR oil pump.
Assembled with assembly lube and Honda Bond.
Block was hot tanked, and fully checked.
Complete with wind tray, oil pick up and oil pan.
It's ready to go.
First come first serve as always.
$540 firm, not interested in any trades.
Text me @ 909-565-8123
If you need more pics just text me.)
http://hondamarketplace.com/showthread.php?t=3033430&highlight=b18b1
Here are pics I took...
Cylinder walls should be smooth they look fine to me
Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk
Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk
I mean, you can feel the lines on the walls, I don't know if that's okay or not?
Ya, sorry, it was my mistake, I'll deal with the consequences.
wrong . I'f cylinder walls are to smooth they will not
hold
enough oil and will not allow the rings to seat properly . obtaining the correct cylinder wall finish is important .
the desired cylinder wall finish is comprised of many small crisscross groves .they are usally 50- to 60- degree range but some allow for 20- to 60- range is acceptable .
RonJ
Banned
I can't see any obvious problems with the block, but you need to learn to be a smart buyer who does his homework before making a purchase. How much do you know about the seller? Does the block come with any written warranty?
And do you yet know whether your head is damaged?
I know man, i f***ed up...I can't go back in time, I just have to figure out what to do now!
My mechanic said I need a new block.
And I don't know him, I saw his ad on craigslist and I just bought it off of him. I saw his ad on honda-tech.
you dont need a new block, just hone the cyilnder walls and it should add the cross hatch your looking for but as you drive the car these cross hatch lines go away. its worn down by the piston rings.
they should be at a 45 degree angle
they should be at a 45 degree angle
Everybody says something different lol. I don't know what to do
who is your mechanic? like really, he seems to suck. new block because the cross hatch is gone? thats common and can be brought back. 45 is the optimal angle, less or more can happen but isnt as efficient
RonJ
Banned
Start asking your mechanic a lot of hard questions. Again, you are the buyer and he is the seller. This is business, so be smart unless you want to give your money away for nothing. For example, how does he know cylinder 3 piston is broken just from a compression test? What were the cylinder compression numbers? Did he do a leak down test on cylinder 3? Is he sure cylinder 3 doesn't have a bent or damaged valve? Don't let him do any work until you have clear answers to these questions. And definitely don't pay him anymore money until you know he's competent.
and make sure he gives you the parts from the engine after he replaces ANYTHING. sounds like he is trying to rob you with uselss purchases