boost and compression level
- Thread starter eastcoastrsxs
- Start date
iamgod
Banned
Originally posted by TurboZinc
actually, it can be used either way.
pV=mRT, or, pV=nRT
look it up if you don't believe me
i believe you, n is just used more commonly
im a lil curious...........................with a high compression motor would you want a bigger turbo or a smaller turbo to compensate for the rate or spooling?
i already have a B18C-R motor waiting and im planning on boost so i just want to get a lot of opinions on building it. Im lookin' for the most reliable tubro build, not the most powerful.
Originally posted by iamgod
smaller turbo
yeah, thats the usual answer i get......i appreciate it. I dont really like to street race and crap or even race at the track. I just kinda like showing off the ride but i just wanted to have the power there just in case i feel the need ya know. thanks again
with a turbo b18c5..what psi should i boost it at?
dunno if its a m3.. http://www.hondaswap.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=27804&hl=driveshaftdkj said:just wondering, any thoughts on e46 m3? never seen or heard of boosted m3. but since it has such high compression how you go about boosting it? from what ive heard impossible to do so effectively, unless ur one rich mofo, but i dunno.
iamgod
Banned
TurboZinc said:what turbo are you running?
he does not have a turbo or a b18c5..........
i was thinkin about b18c5 and one of greddy turbo
The reason why most people run low comp is because of all the factory cars the come with it lowered (evo 8, impreza etc.) and because they see how reliable these cars are they crave it and therefore they lower their comp in a bid to get this reliability.
By the way what is PM??
By the way what is PM??
a B18C5 with a GReddy TD05-18G turbo kit (running at stock PSI) would perform nicely and be reliable. when you start to get power hungry and want to up the boost, thats where you can run into problems. with a typeR, you'd want to concentrate on all custom internals to drop that compression rate, so you can up the boost safely. Most peeps prefer a GSR or LS motor for boost because its already lower compression. Something that people dont look at is, the fact that the typeR comes with a lot of better and more powerful parts inside it which helps it to put out better numbers in the end than a GSR. (but thats only because the builder doesn't pay that close of attention, or reaches their power goal without upgrading those parts)
it doesn't matter too much about which motor you build for turbo.....as long as you hit every detail and do it right, you'll make insane power.
it doesn't matter too much about which motor you build for turbo.....as long as you hit every detail and do it right, you'll make insane power.
So what would be the point in lowering the compression from a 10:1 to 8:1 if you’re going to be making the same power with the 8:1 boosting 10.5psi as 10:1 boosting 8psi? Just to have better low end power, when you're off boost (when going from a low to high compression)? If you lower the compression ratio and up the boost, won’t it be just as stable/unstable as running the high compression with low boost?
in a way you're right. the power levels would level out. But check out my lil example here. (*these are not actual figures*)eps said:So what would be the point in lowering the compression from a 10:1 to 8:1 if you’re going to be making the same power with the 8:1 boosting 10.5psi as 10:1 boosting 8psi? Just to have better low end power, when you're off boost (when going from a low to high compression)? If you lower the compression ratio and up the boost, won’t it be just as stable/unstable as running the high compression with low boost?
CTR turbo stock internals
250 whp @ 8 psi safely
280 whp @ 10 psi slightly unsafe
310 whp @ 12 psi unsafe!
CTR turbo low compression 8.5:1
220 whp @ 8 psi safely
250 whp @ 10 psi safely
280 whp @ 12 psi safely
310 whp @ 1 bar safely
330 whp @ 17 psi slightly unsafe
350 whp @ 19 psi unsafe
With a built lower compression ration motor, you can run more boost. Sure while you're at the stock boost level you lose power, but you have "the potential" to run higher boost. With a non-built motor, your option for running higher boost is eliminated. So if you can keep yourself from getting power hungry, the go ahead and boost the stock motor.......but if you just can't get enough of speed, then build that motor and have fun with the boost controller