Boosted Ladydriven EK

dancam

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Boostedchicky said:
The rod damaged the block, there's a hole in the block :p
Click to expand...
Thats what i had guessed, you should tell us more about your build! New or used block? You have new rods, pistons and bearings but what head gasket are you using? You had your ecu tuned for the build you had, are you going to do that again or get software/ecu that you can tune yourself via laptop? What kind of clutch do you use?

Just a tip: there are tons of reasons that people blow their engines at the track and im sure you and your builder are aware of the common ones. Did you determine what exactly went wrong? One reason that gets overlooked is cold oil. Flow lubricates, not system pressure, so people go to the track and may have the right viscosity oil in the oil pan but its cold so its actually way too thick. Then they take off on their first run full boost and everything to the max and blow the engine. When the oil is too cold it cannot flow into the bearings and wrist pin fast enough at 7k rpm and you get mixed or boundry lubrication which leads to scuffing which leads to a spun bearing which leads to a broken rod very quickly when your close to the max of what components can handle. Even if you have 90-100 psi of oil at 7000rpm it doesnt mean its actually lubricating. Like a garden hose: if nothing is blocking the end you have low pressure but high flow and things get watered. If you block the end you get high pressure in the line but nothing is coming out and theres no lubrication.

Anyhow, i reccomend installing an oil temperature gauge and making sure the oil is hot before doing a full out run. Oil takes a long time to heat up. On my stock civic oil temp levels out around 215 degrees farenhight. It takes 20 minutes of freeway driving at 3000rpm to get it to just 200f when its +30c ambient. In town it never gets over 170f. Playing with your viscosity helps too. Your engine calls for 5w30. Its a 30 weight at 212f. If you never get to those temps racing and you care enough you could dump the 5w30 when you get to the track and put a 0w20 in. Its actually the same viscosity at 200f that 30weight is at 212. So if you run 0w20 and your racing temps never get over say 180f your oil is still thicker than it was meant to be with 5w30. But i wouldnt freeway drive with it, you would want to dump it out and save it for the next race and put the 30 weight in for the drive home because if you use freeways you will get to operating temperature and it will be too thin.

But if its possible just to make sure you get your normal oil hot enough before a race that works too. What viscosity do you use?


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Boostedchicky

Respected
dancam said:
Thats what i had guessed, you should tell us more about your build! New or used block? You have new rods, pistons and bearings but what head gasket are you using? You had your ecu tuned for the build you had, are you going to do that again or get software/ecu that you can tune yourself via laptop? What kind of clutch do you use?

Just a tip: there are tons of reasons that people blow their engines at the track and im sure you and your builder are aware of the common ones. Did you determine what exactly went wrong? One reason that gets overlooked is cold oil. Flow lubricates, not system pressure, so people go to the track and may have the right viscosity oil in the oil pan but its cold so its actually way too thick. Then they take off on their first run full boost and everything to the max and blow the engine. When the oil is too cold it cannot flow into the bearings and wrist pin fast enough at 7k rpm and you get mixed or boundry lubrication which leads to scuffing which leads to a spun bearing which leads to a broken rod very quickly when your close to the max of what components can handle. Even if you have 90-100 psi of oil at 7000rpm it doesnt mean its actually lubricating. Like a garden hose: if nothing is blocking the end you have low pressure but high flow and things get watered. If you block the end you get high pressure in the line but nothing is coming out and theres no lubrication.

Anyhow, i reccomend installing an oil temperature gauge and making sure the oil is hot before doing a full out run. Oil takes a long time to heat up. On my stock civic oil temp levels out around 215 degrees farenhight. It takes 20 minutes of freeway driving at 3000rpm to get it to just 200f when its +30c ambient. In town it never gets over 170f. Playing with your viscosity helps too. Your engine calls for 5w30. Its a 30 weight at 212f. If you never get to those temps racing and you care enough you could dump the 5w30 when you get to the track and put a 0w20 in. Its actually the same viscosity at 200f that 30weight is at 212. So if you run 0w20 and your racing temps never get over say 180f your oil is still thicker than it was meant to be with 5w30. But i wouldnt freeway drive with it, you would want to dump it out and save it for the next race and put the 30 weight in for the drive home because if you use freeways you will get to operating temperature and it will be too thin.

But if its possible just to make sure you get your normal oil hot enough before a race that works too. What viscosity do you use?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I have an oil temperature and oil pressure gauge. I checked the engine if the oil was the problem but it wasnt that. But my ex-bf built the engine and he was kindof a bootlegged mechanic, he never paid attention to details. I always warm up the car before I start running it (around 80-90 celcius).

I dont know about the head gasket yet, probably a cometic. We dont have new d16 blocks, so always used (or do you mean new bearings, cause i used new bearings on the old engine). I'm letting it tune by sneaky tuning, he builds and tunes 10sec cars so i trust him

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Diana Nam

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Boostedchicky said:
I have an oil temperature and oil pressure gauge. I checked the engine if the oil was the problem but it wasnt that. But my ex-bf built the engine and he was kindof a bootlegged mechanic, he never paid attention to details. I always warm up the car before I start running it (around 80-90 celcius).

I dont know about the head gasket yet, probably a cometic. We dont have new d16 blocks, so always used (or do you mean new bearings, cause i used new bearings on the old engine). I'm letting it tune by sneaky tuning, he builds and tunes 10sec cars so i trust him

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G920F met Tapatalk
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that can be one of the factor to engine failure that you had. your ex-bf built that motor and having a tendency to not pay close attention to detail.... engine assembly and building needs a lot of attention to small details like bearing clearances, piston to wall clearance, piston to valve clearances( if you plan on running high left camshafts) inspection on how the wear it like on the old bearing.
 


dancam

Member
Registered VIP
Boostedchicky said:
I have an oil temperature and oil pressure gauge. I checked the engine if the oil was the problem but it wasnt that. But my ex-bf built the engine and he was kindof a bootlegged mechanic, he never paid attention to details. I always warm up the car before I start running it (around 80-90 celcius).

I dont know about the head gasket yet, probably a cometic. We dont have new d16 blocks, so always used (or do you mean new bearings, cause i used new bearings on the old engine). I'm letting it tune by sneaky tuning, he builds and tunes 10sec cars so i trust him

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G920F met Tapatalk
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Good! Not many drag racers i know pay much attention to that. Did you end up figuring out what went wrong?
Are you more or less replicating your last build or do you want to do something different?


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Boostedchicky

Respected
dancam said:
Good! Not many drag racers i know pay much attention to that. Did you end up figuring out what went wrong?
Are you more or less replicating your last build or do you want to do something different?


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I have no clue what went wrong. The only thing replicating is the engine itself. I'm building another d16z6. But this time I'm going for fully build.

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Diana Nam

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Registered VIP
Boostedchicky said:
I have no clue what went wrong. The only thing replicating is the engine itself. I'm building another d16z6. But this time I'm going for fully build.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G920F met Tapatalk
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how much are you looking to make this time?
 
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