I can verify your statements.
I am not a fan of mini me conversions simply because the effort and money invested arent worth the outcome. If your Y7 head is working fine, then leave it.
When it comes to boosting a SOHC, I would highly recommend a mini me swap. The best feature IMHO is you get an extra 400RPMs before red line. Y7 red lines at 6200, Y8 at 6600. It doesnt sound like much but when youre pushing a turbo, it can mean the difference between losing boost when you shift, or staying in boost since your RPM's will only drop so far when you go to the next gear.
The second feature is the VTEC makes more exhaust (im not sure if I worded it properly) and that means more spool. When my VTEC would engage, I would feel a hefty increase in power till 6600 RPM.
I was happier with the increased red line than the extra kick in VTEC since our gears are so long. Again, it not a requirement, but the pros greatly outweigh the cons in this situation.
Also OP, why $65 for oil lines? My friend just ordered an oil feed line for his turbo were going to install this weekend and he only spent $25 for the oil line. For the return all you need is 5/8ths fuel hose with snail clamps at the end and youll have an leak-free return line. The A/N lines that some kits come with are hard to install, require Teflon tape, and are prone to leaks.
Youll also need a Z6/Y8 intake manifold with a 2 wire IACV. P06's can not read the 3 wire IACV that Y7 engines are equipped with. Luckily for you, the manifolds can be purchased for very cheap on craigslist or d-series.org. Then youll need NGK BKR7E spark plugs which run at a colder temperature. Theyll need to be gapped to .30 or whatever your tuner would recommend. I had mine to .28 and it ran amazing.
As for fuel you dont need anything else except some DSM 450CC injectors from an Eclipse GST/GSX or better. DSM injectors are good for up to 300whp and they are a very solid and budget friendly set up. I just purchased a rebuilt kit for my friend from D-series.org for $100, and I got the resistor box at the junk yard for $10. They worked flawlessly in my set up and I wasnt even close to maxing them out, even at 230whp. A Walbro fuel pump is also nice, but not really necessary. You dont need FPR's or a new fuel rail.
I would also recommend on doing your head gasket, even if yours isnt leaking. Reason being is it gets wear and it doesnt work as well as when brand new. I am also proof that they can give you power. I made 160whp my first dyno session then a couple of months later I did my head gasket and added ARP head bolts. When I went back for a retune I made 190whp WITHOUT any tuning or boost increase. I ended up making 230whp after the tune, but had them tone it down to 210. Use OEM, dont use any Cometic or aftermarket head gaskets.
Last but definitely not least, a dyno tune is a MUST. If youre not planning on dyno tuning it or you want to have a friend do a "street tune" then just forget about the build. A turbo install is only as good as the tune and without one, the car will run very poorly, youll get incorrect fuel levels and youll blow your piston rings and/or engine itself. Ask around for reputable tuner and go there. Anyone can say theyre a tuner if they have the correct software, but you need someone with credibility. In my opinion, the tune is more important than anything else.
