so im going to install a new system and heres what ive got picked out so far. kenwood excelon kdc-789 head unit, 2 pair mb quart dsf-216 120 watt rms @ 4 ohms component speakers, 2 hifonics zxi-6006 2x150watts rms @ 4 ohms, 2 mtx t7512-44 dual 4ohm voice coil subs 400 watt rms, hifonics bxi-1606d amp 1x1600 watt rms @ 1 ohm. ive been trying to decide what size and what brands of capacitor i should get. I think the rule of thumb is about 1 farad per 1000 watts of power at rms. so if thats the case i should be looking for about a 3 farad cap. i am curious if anyone knows which brands are really shitty and problematic so i can stay away from them. I have a yellow top optima battery and i have done the big three, im trying to stay away from a high power alternator till the oem one takes a s**t. im thinking of using streetwires products for distribution blocks, wire, connectors, rca cables and possibly their cap too. thanks.
Capacitors, do's and donts
- Thread starter nyghtryder
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I'm not sure if I'm ready to jump on the capacitor bandwagon. I have heard a lot of arguments and have seen the examples...where the capacitor just isn't able to recharge fast enough for every single time that the system needs that power on demand. I personally think that they don't work as good as they're supposed to and that they are just a way for you to spend more money on something that truly doesn't live up to its potential.
A cap will only help voltage fluxuation with dynamic draw. Basically it is used to give amps a flat voltage so the alternator keeps up.
They will NOT help with major voltage drop. They do not provide extra current and the current most can store is nothing compared to even a $40 battery from walmart..what you should do..is the big 3 or a better battery..another thing..it would be a waste to get 2 pairs of components only the fronts are needed..get some coaxils for the rear and you'll be set..get one 4 channel amp instead of 2 2 channel amps
They will NOT help with major voltage drop. They do not provide extra current and the current most can store is nothing compared to even a $40 battery from walmart..what you should do..is the big 3 or a better battery..another thing..it would be a waste to get 2 pairs of components only the fronts are needed..get some coaxils for the rear and you'll be set..get one 4 channel amp instead of 2 2 channel amps
ive done the big three and have a yellow top optima. im trying not to get a high output alternator til the oem one takes a crap. the reason im going with 2 2 channel amps is because i havent found a 4 channel that i like that puts out enough power at 4 ohms for what the speakers are drawing at rms. im also trying to stay with the same brand and styles of amps that way when i mount them it looks uniform so ill pay the extra money for this, its gay i know but i like uniformity. i figured with the amount of bass these subs produce it cant hurt to have another set of tweeters in the rear to help balance out the lows, but ill look into the coaxils.A cap will only help voltage fluxuation with dynamic draw. Basically it is used to give amps a flat voltage so the alternator keeps up.
They will NOT help with major voltage drop. They do not provide extra current and the current most can store is nothing compared to even a $40 battery from walmart..what you should do..is the big 3 or a better battery..another thing..it would be a waste to get 2 pairs of components only the fronts are needed..get some coaxils for the rear and you'll be set..get one 4 channel amp instead of 2 2 channel amps
so im better off running a second battery than getting a cap then, or is that overkill. if i do go the second battery route should i just get a battery relocator from summit and put them both int he trunk? anyone have a cap that they are pleased with? my friends using a little half farad on his system and that was enough to keep the headlights from dimming. however i am pushing almost twice the power he is too. thanks.
you can find a good 4 channel..that can do 120x4 @4 ohms...a properly amped good component set is enough..i know this guy wit only one set of components and no rear fill wit a 15inch l7 in the trunk and the lows never drown out the mids and highs..just feed them clean power and your set..if u already have a optima and u still get dimming then its time for a high output alternator..caps never fix the issue they only act as bandaids and try to hide the problemive done the big three and have a yellow top optima. im trying not to get a high output alternator til the oem one takes a crap. the reason im going with 2 2 channel amps is because i havent found a 4 channel that i like that puts out enough power at 4 ohms for what the speakers are drawing at rms. im also trying to stay with the same brand and styles of amps that way when i mount them it looks uniform so ill pay the extra money for this, its gay i know but i like uniformity. i figured with the amount of bass these subs produce it cant hurt to have another set of tweeters in the rear to help balance out the lows, but ill look into the coaxils.
so im better off running a second battery than getting a cap then, or is that overkill. if i do go the second battery route should i just get a battery relocator from summit and put them both int he trunk? anyone have a cap that they are pleased with? my friends using a little half farad on his system and that was enough to keep the headlights from dimming. however i am pushing almost twice the power he is too. thanks.
AGREED^^
do not get a capacitor....get a high output altenator....
do not get a capacitor....get a high output altenator....
do they make any that charge at idle???
I used to live by the HO alternator
but there is one issue with them
they don't charge at idle
I had aa 150 amp on our civic
It didn't charge till about 1600 rpms
I do a lot of in town driving, so it hurt my system more than it helped it
when i was searching around for the ho alts thats what i kept reading about. i have the same problem with the in town and rush hour traffic driving. so whats your solution, did you go to a cap or second battery.
i havent found any that specify that they charge at idle. my guess is that they arent going to becuase an alt of that size is going to need to spin relatively fast to generate that much power. it would need a cvt style pulley on it to allow to charge at low and high rpms.
im thinking though is i relocate the battery to the trunk and add an additional battery to it with the oem alt i should be ok.
I actually chuckled when I read this one because it is a homonymjust a way for you to spend more money on something that truly doesn't live up to its potential.
potential can mean either the able to apply a voltage (stored energy) or it could mean the maximum ability or worth as a product
is the accord alt a direct fitwe put an 80 amp accord alternator on vs the 60 amp civic alternator
we have 2 caps in it as well
what brand caps and how many farads
has that solved the problems you were having
what brand do you haveacard fit right in
2 1 farads caps works great
anyone else have a brand of cap that they are pleased with
beef up your electrical with the big 3 or a battery..screw the cap
what helps with light dim
so what are the strict rules to adding another battery? i didnt see anything under the diy's. i plan on relocating both batteries to the trunk. thanks