Car only starts when hot outside (out of ideas)

[Autoteck21]

All in all whats going on is your engine block and cyl head when cold is contracted which in a sense is kinda warped and will not hold compression on the warn valve('s) or piston ring('s) and does not ignite well when that un-burnt fuel stays in your cyl it doubles on the next firing stroke "or every other rotation" it then builds up and saturates your plug, right now seems like your in the first main stage of "cold start problem" if it in fact is what i am thinking it is its only going to get worse. but keep me up-dated.

 

[ubberkid]

I will be going to see my mechanic in the next day or so to check for compression and a couple other things, I'll let you know (: thanks

 

[ubberkid]

So i've tried just about everything. I have replaced plugs, wires, and the whole distributor. I have taken sensors and tried heating them up with a heat gun, i pressure checked my fuel and its fine. I'm all out of ideas and this problem is just so weird, idk what the eff to do, i would really appreciate anyones help, i just wanna drive my car at night ):

 

[Failsafe88]

Swap everything

 

[ubberkid]

problem is that i spent all the extra money i had replacing all that other stuff

 

[Autoteck21]

Man i know it sucks i own and went through the same sh*t excepted i replaced,

FUEL SYSTEM--regulator, injectors, rail, filter, pump.
IGNITION--cap, rotor, plugs, wires, dizzy
TIMING--belt, chain, tensioner, idlers
INTERNALS-- cams, lifters,
SENSORS--intake air temp, coolant temp (sensor not sender), map

then when that didn't work i Manuel point to point ohms checked my whole harness then checked every reference signal to-from my ecu and replaced my ecu, just to find out only when cold i had some compression loss on 1 cyl rings and another 2 valves seeped but only cool to cold so i wired in a cut off switch on my fuel pump relay and Manuel switched on and off while turning over my engine so it wouldn't flood takes a min or too but it fires up now even cold