that looks like a serious pain haha
Change...EM1 content
- Thread starter mportedcivicsi
- Start date
Yeah, OEM Si grill isn't hard to come by.
It's not bad. I've had more difficult projects, like getting the roll bar in with the plastics...lol. That was a nightmare.
DeviousJuney
New Member
Can you link me good sir?
Well, if you want new, here is a link to Majestic Honda...Can you link me good sir?
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=CIVIC&catcgry2=1999&catcgry3=2DR+SI&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=FRONT+GRILLE+(3)
But if you want used, you just look around on FB groups, forums, eBay (ensuring its authentic and a legit seller)...no specific link to any used.
Well, things have been moving along. But with anything, have gotten a bit out of hand...haha. I decided to take on more than I probably should have, so the pressure is really on to get the car back together.
First, the Tundra is back on the road with fresh stopping power up front.
I've had my NT03's for sale for a while now, but had never even fit them to the car. There is a lot of brake space with these...with NO spacer! 949's I'm running 5mm to clear the knuckle arm...
The NT03 I can get my finger between the wheel and caliper and move it around.
949 with 5mm I cant get my full finger between the wheel and caliper.
For the short term, I've evicted the wife from the garage so I do not have to stress with the up and down and pushing the car around. So up it goes!
So I purchased a RyWire tuck, non disconnect, harness back when I was doing my swap. I got it from an EM1Crew member to help clean up the bay, but only as a temp solution. I really wanted to just use my OEM, but cleaned up and redone. I didn't have time back then, so that's why I did what I did. 3.5 years later, that still hasn't happened. So, I said screw it and pulled the RyWire off and put my OEM back on the car. I'll be removing the engine in the winter to delete the PCV system and install a freeze plug in the oil hole. At that time, I'll address the harness.
And I got the sensor cables sorted and then loomed together from the point that 3 of them meet. The fourth follows its own path until it enters the car.
And because its an Si harness with an ITR engine, I had to change the connector and extend it for the IAT...
First, the Tundra is back on the road with fresh stopping power up front.
I've had my NT03's for sale for a while now, but had never even fit them to the car. There is a lot of brake space with these...with NO spacer! 949's I'm running 5mm to clear the knuckle arm...
The NT03 I can get my finger between the wheel and caliper and move it around.
949 with 5mm I cant get my full finger between the wheel and caliper.
For the short term, I've evicted the wife from the garage so I do not have to stress with the up and down and pushing the car around. So up it goes!
So I purchased a RyWire tuck, non disconnect, harness back when I was doing my swap. I got it from an EM1Crew member to help clean up the bay, but only as a temp solution. I really wanted to just use my OEM, but cleaned up and redone. I didn't have time back then, so that's why I did what I did. 3.5 years later, that still hasn't happened. So, I said screw it and pulled the RyWire off and put my OEM back on the car. I'll be removing the engine in the winter to delete the PCV system and install a freeze plug in the oil hole. At that time, I'll address the harness.
And I got the sensor cables sorted and then loomed together from the point that 3 of them meet. The fourth follows its own path until it enters the car.
And because its an Si harness with an ITR engine, I had to change the connector and extend it for the IAT...
Continuing...
Spoon heat barrier tape added to the Spoon pan.
New VC gasket, head inspection and I'm going to test the DownStar hardware out...
Yes, I still have the ground...on the back of the head now.
Fuel line wrapped with the same wrap used on the AC and PS lines...
And while I was over here, DownStar mount hardware. The rest will go in with the engine job over the winter.
Koyo will be doing the cooling now...
And I jumped out back to start the F7 LCA swap. I had the standard F7's on the car, since 2009. And while they were off last year, they were fine. But...
No worries though, lifetime warranty. I've beat the crap out of them for a while, so I cannot complain. Especially with the lifetime replacement warranty. So they will be fresh when I sell them.
Spherical in on the left side of the car...
Not pictured, the K-Tuned (1st gen) shifter has been removed and a Fastline is now in its place.
Spoon heat barrier tape added to the Spoon pan.
New VC gasket, head inspection and I'm going to test the DownStar hardware out...
Yes, I still have the ground...on the back of the head now.
Fuel line wrapped with the same wrap used on the AC and PS lines...
And while I was over here, DownStar mount hardware. The rest will go in with the engine job over the winter.
Koyo will be doing the cooling now...
And I jumped out back to start the F7 LCA swap. I had the standard F7's on the car, since 2009. And while they were off last year, they were fine. But...
No worries though, lifetime warranty. I've beat the crap out of them for a while, so I cannot complain. Especially with the lifetime replacement warranty. So they will be fresh when I sell them.
Spherical in on the left side of the car...
Not pictured, the K-Tuned (1st gen) shifter has been removed and a Fastline is now in its place.
Haha...yeah, I put my car on the ground and rolled it in the driveway and got the slight rub. I think mine could be solved by just hitting the drop arm of the knuckle with a grinder. It was only a slight rub on the casting line right down the center.
Defi...its there. I haven't finished the wiring in the interior yet. I've been working the outside items. Things kind of got out of hand...haha. I didn't really intend to get this deep with my short timeline, but I did...haha.
DeviousJuney
New Member
Hmmm im confused on what to buy on there ( I don't wanna buy something that has no parts to install it)
Item 1 and 2 is the grill assembly. Item 2 is painted in the 3 Si colors offered in the US. If you do not have that color, you can buy whatever color you want and then have it painted to match, as you would by sourcing a used item. Item 10, total of 16 screws, are the screws that hold the assembly together. But you can just get self tapping screws from the hardware store if you want.Hmmm im confused on what to buy on there ( I don't wanna buy something that has no parts to install it)
The parts necessary to install are the same any other oem grille. If you don't want to buy one new from the dealer then look on eBay. Ctr ek9 grille is the same as em1. Or you could check whatever local Facebook Honda sale pages you have and keep your eyes open. I see one pop up around me almost every weekHmmm im confused on what to buy on there ( I don't wanna buy something that has no parts to install it)
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DeviousJuney
New Member
oh ok thank you!
DeviousJuney
New Member
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-Honda-Civic-EK9-B16B-CTR-OEM-grille-grill-96-mesh-96-98-/161982340307
does this look legit and can fit into a em1 00 civic?
Also this one is alot cheaper but are there cons?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-Civic-EK-JDM-Type-R-Style-Front-Black-Grill-Grille-99-00-GLI-CXI-/360916885827?hash=item540852a143
The first is for a 96-98 bumper and will not fit properly on a 99-00. I'm assuming you have a 99-00 front. The second is a replica version. Cons...they don't always fit well and aren't always the best in quality. And when you are nearing $100 for a replica, your money is really better spent on OEM parts.
Contacted F7 and they will be sending me a full bushing kit to replace all of the bushings, not just the one that let go. F7, best aftermarket LCA company out there. Anything else is just substandard!
How did you feel about the stagger? I thought it was awesome, loose when I need it but grip when I needed it to recover from the lift off oversteer.
I love it man. Right away you can feel the improvements. Beast, but can take the beating and move very well. I'd have a hard time stepping down to a square setup. I've thought about selling all of my wheels and getting a square x8 +35 TE37SL setup for both streets and track, keep it simple, but man I love my setup...haha. Although, I'm very tempted to only run street class tires from now on. The slicks were fun, but its nice just showing up and being ready.
I took three days off last week to try and finish up. I'm nearly there, but will be finished this week!
Not many photos, but I got the interior wrapped up, less a new cabin filter that no one stocks, arrives today from Amazon. And then the plastics around to close up final. KoyoRad is in and the system is flushed from green to clear to now Honda blue. I had a CEL for the VTEC oil pressure sensor, which I do not have on a JDM engine. I guess the RyWire harness accounts for this and jumps it. I jumped the connector and the CEL went out. So for now, its jumped, but I'll have it turned off at tune. Basically the car is good to go. I just need to get that filter in place and close the interior and then do a quick bolt check. Bumper on, wheels on and ground. Calling this morning to try and schedule the new tune on S300 for Friday.
I'll be using the EL upper console with my US spec lower and 96-98 cup holders. A delete plate is in place now as I've removed the single DIN unit and custom screen in favor of a double DIN. The EL upper required a bit of a trim to fit with the US spec lower...
Filter has seen better days...haha...
Flush and burp.
The lower console will be put in place, but this gives a bit of an idea of the FastLine shifter. Most a familiar with the K-Tuned B/D shifter (gen 1)
Not many photos, but I got the interior wrapped up, less a new cabin filter that no one stocks, arrives today from Amazon. And then the plastics around to close up final. KoyoRad is in and the system is flushed from green to clear to now Honda blue. I had a CEL for the VTEC oil pressure sensor, which I do not have on a JDM engine. I guess the RyWire harness accounts for this and jumps it. I jumped the connector and the CEL went out. So for now, its jumped, but I'll have it turned off at tune. Basically the car is good to go. I just need to get that filter in place and close the interior and then do a quick bolt check. Bumper on, wheels on and ground. Calling this morning to try and schedule the new tune on S300 for Friday.
I'll be using the EL upper console with my US spec lower and 96-98 cup holders. A delete plate is in place now as I've removed the single DIN unit and custom screen in favor of a double DIN. The EL upper required a bit of a trim to fit with the US spec lower...
Filter has seen better days...haha...
Flush and burp.
The lower console will be put in place, but this gives a bit of an idea of the FastLine shifter. Most a familiar with the K-Tuned B/D shifter (gen 1)
