Civic 6th Gen Service/Tune

fronomo

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SECOND TASK: REPLACING THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND ROTOR

REMOVE YOUR NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL

1. Begin by loosening all three bolts that hold the distributor cap to the actual distributor. This will be an 8mm bolt. Once they are loose, use your hand to pull them back, and then pull the cap away from the distributor. You will need to pull down, then out. Be careful to keep all of your sparkplug wires CONNECTED at this point.

2. With the cap out of the way, you will see the rotor. (It is the round thing with the little gold piece on one section) There is a section of the cover piece that opens up so that you can see the base of the rotor. thats the BASE not the BOTTOM. the base is the part that is connected to the distributor which actually turns. in that opening, you will see either rounded black plastic, or a gold, philips head screw there. If you can already see the screw, then great! In that case don't do anything. However, if you can't see the screw, get a friend (or some bum off the street) to watch for the screw while you reconnect your battery and turn the ignition until they can see the screw. Once you can see it, remove your battery terminal once again.

3. Using a philips head screwdriver, remove this screw. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT DROP IT. chances are you would NEVER see it again. the new rotor does not come with a new screw either so don't get your hopes up. just keep it the first time. (magnetized tools work great for this project) Once the screw is out, the rotor will slide right off. Take the new one, and when you find the hole for the screw on it, slide it on in the same position as the old one came off, and replace the screw, tightening it thoroughly.

4. Now its time to mess with the wires. Take your old distributor cap (with wires still connected) and position it next to your new one, so that they are in the same position side by side. doing ONE wire at a time, remove it from the old cap and put it in the SAME hole on the new cap. repeat this process four times, but remember only ONE at a time. you DO NOT want to get this mixed up.

5. Once all of your new wires are connected, you will want to reposition your new cap in the same way that the old one came off. Get it sung on there and then use your hands to start the bolts in. Once they are handtight, use your 8mm socket to turn them ONLY until they are snug. DO NOT tighten them as hard as you can, because it will brake the cap and you wasted your money on a new one. (i've done this before, and it sucks) just get it tight enough to hold
 

fronomo

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THIRD TASK: CHANGING THE WIRES

REMOVE THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL

1. Before you do anything with your existing wires, take the new wires out of the box. Pull them to their full length, and arrange them from longest to shortest.

2. ONLY DO ONE WIRE AT A TIME

3. Starting with the farthest one to the right, remove the wire from the sparkplug, and then from the distributor cap. Since it is the one that is farthest away, take the LONGEST new wire, and put it in that wire's place. For the next hole to the left, you will use the next longest wire, and so on. Repeat this for all four wires.


REPLACE YOUR BATTERY TERMINAL AND START IT UP TO MAKE SURE IT ALL WORKS
 


gleaminrimz

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so far, fronomo's wirte ups have been great. if you motorheads could contribute more to this thread it could probably be made a sticky, which would be very useful to newbies (like me :D)

good work fronomo, looking forward to the pics :D
 

fronomo

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yup. im working on one for the transmission. is yours manual or auto? either way its pretty simple
 


gleaminrimz

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i have a manual transmission.

Also, what is the difference between the small HAMP oil filter and the big HAMP oil filter?

thanks!
 

fronomo

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just get a fram filter.....it doesn't really matter. in the end, they all do the same thing
 

cgpEJ6

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Don't forget to mention that once you've started using Synthetic Oil you cannot revert to "regular" oil unless you re-build your engine (or so I've been told)... I've been using Synthetic since I've owned my 98... I started using Mobil 1 Synth, then Castrol Syntec, now I''m using Valvolin High mileage Synthetic and a K&N oil filter. BTW good write-up fronomo.
that's not true, I work at an oil change place during the school year and while you don't want to change back and forth everytime going back to conventional oil will not hurt your car what so ever. oil change places tell people that so they will spend more money. it really wont affect anything.

also.. its transmission fluid not transmission oil
 

Ag00Civic

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One of the problems you will only run into when using conventional motor oil and running synthetic is that you have a possibility of developing oil leaks. The molecules in synthetic oil are al of equal size and are smaller. Molecules in conventional motor oil are of various sizes. When your seals and such are used to larger molecules it leaves room for smaller ones (i.e. synthetic molecules) to seep through. It's not like they will gush out or anything, you are just at more of a chance for oil leaks. I ran Castrol 5-30 in my D16 forever and switched to Mobil one 2 years ago and haven't had an oil leak yet.

Yes the drain plug that is given to you normally when you purchase an OEM filter is to be replaced at every oil change because it is a crush washer...an aluminum washer that spreads when torqued to help seal your oil pan. Your manual transmission has one also and I highly recommend using it.
 


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