This problem started about 2 months ago. So literally over night, no joke, My transmission developed a problem. I can't get into reverse unless I pull forward a bit. And then a few days later I would have to pump the clutch several times to get into first. And It does it hot or cold. Any help for a tranny noob?
civic cx Standard Transmission ?
- Thread starter mylovehx
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James315
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do a mtf flush and see if that does anything could be low or empty try that with honda mtf and see if there a difference... or are your clutch hydrolics good like plenty of fluid in the reservoir bled correctly or slave sylinder working these are my best ideas of thing to check and none are expensive or hard to check or replace.
I will do that. Thanks for the advice! I still have to pump the clutch sometimes if that's of any help.
All the fluid levels are good. Now that you mention it, it has lost a little bit of pressure since I first got it. And It the clutch feels slightly worn. The clutch in my HX feels more worn and has zero tranny issues. I assume the little reservoir is the clutch fluid correct?
XpL0d3r
I had a Civic once.
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Correct. Try bleeding the clutch, in case any air has gotten into the lines. Grab a buddy and do this:
One person needs to be in the car and the other under the hood to open and close the bleader valve.
1. Pump the clutch a few times then hold it to the floor
2. Open the bleader valve
3. close valve
4. pull the pedal off the floor
5. repeat steps 1-4
If this works, check your lines to make sure they all look okay. If not, tranny flush. Use Synchromesh!
One person needs to be in the car and the other under the hood to open and close the bleader valve.
1. Pump the clutch a few times then hold it to the floor
2. Open the bleader valve
3. close valve
4. pull the pedal off the floor
5. repeat steps 1-4
If this works, check your lines to make sure they all look okay. If not, tranny flush. Use Synchromesh!
Yup. Bleeding the clutch is very easy.
I personally recommend against Syncromesh only because I've used Honda MTF in my car and it has fixed grinds and made it feel much snoother. Plus it's what Honda recommends
.Will do that when I get to work and have free time. I saw the fluid was actually a good bit past max in my clutch reservoir so I assume to bleed the excess away? I also noticed my brake master cylinder has a leak where it attaches to the big black circular thing. Is there a gasket I can change for that? I searched but couldn't find anything.
That big black circular thing is your brake booster. Sounds to me like you have a leaky brake master cylinder. Do you notice any problems in the brake pedal at all? Like the pedal goes to the floor by itself when you're sitting at a stop. Those were the symptoms I had when my master cylinder was leaking. I just replaced the master cylinder. The only seal was made onto the master cylinder. This doesn't affect your transmission at all though.
To fix it just replace the master cylinder and bench bleed it. Be sure to bleed your brakes in the correct order as well after installing the master cylinder.
Wish I could help you with your tranny problem but I know absolutely nothing about manual transmissions. Good luck and hopefully my advice helps you with your brake issue.
Well bleeding the clutch did nothing. Will update after flush. how do I check if my slave cylinder is working? Also on a note When I was bleeding the clutch after every time the bleeder was tightened the clutch petal stuck to the bottom. good or bad?
James315
New Member
thats normal when bleeding a hydrolic clutch just gotta keep doing til the peddle starts returning up on its own and your getting a steady stream of fluid make sure when bleeding it you have the reservoir cap on sercurly otherwise your just going to draw more air back into the system and as for your slave cylinder working or not have a friend press the clutch and watch it make sure it move quite a bit if its barley moving and your sure you have all the air out of the system replace it because its not fully disengauging the clutch which would make shifting very difficult if not impossible at times and can cause it to grind. and as for fluid sycromesh is great for high milage transmissions with grinds but honda mtf is whats recomended and works great as well and i have had the same results personally using either so i always just use honda mtf.
Then I guess I shoulda kept going lol I will do that after my roommate wakes up then!
also just a thought that i dont think any one mentioned, is some one said "make sure when bleeding it you have the reservoir cap on sercurly otherwise your just going to draw more air back into the system "
well this is false, because if you are doing it the way you should (with the car on flat ground) you need to have the cap off so that the fluid isnt creating negative pressure inside the resivior. the only way that you would get air back into it is if you bled it to the point that you run out of fluid in the resivior (which means that you need to be sure to top off the fluid).
(just like you would be doing for brakes)
do the trans flush if you haven't already, flush the clutch system, if you havent already, and thats about all i know other then replacing your slave cyl.
hope it helps
well this is false, because if you are doing it the way you should (with the car on flat ground) you need to have the cap off so that the fluid isnt creating negative pressure inside the resivior. the only way that you would get air back into it is if you bled it to the point that you run out of fluid in the resivior (which means that you need to be sure to top off the fluid).
(just like you would be doing for brakes)
do the trans flush if you haven't already, flush the clutch system, if you havent already, and thats about all i know other then replacing your slave cyl.
hope it helps
This. Usually you should replace both at the same time. Sounds like you need a new master cylinder.
Also, when you bleed the clutch, the pedal isn't supposed to come back up on it's own. You need to reach down and pull it back up. When you open the bleeder valve, it releases the pressure built up so there is no more pressure to push the pedal back up.
If the clutch fork isn't moving, it could be a few possible things. If a new MC and bleed doesn't work, you'll probably have to pull the transmission off and look at the clutch fork and throwout bearing itself.
My clutch fork went bad last year. The clutch fork has a dimple that pivots on a metal ball inside the transmission case and mine was completely worn through so it was BARELY pivoting. Enough to disengage the transmission but not enough to let me change gears. I drove my car clutchless over a total of like 15-20 miles lol. Starting from stops, upshifting, downshifting...it was actually fun lol.
I didn't know to replace in pair but I got the master on order and should be here tuesday! Well atleast my lines will be all sorts of clean when im done. The fluid was jet black
And gives me another chance to lube up that pivot point some more now that you mention it 